Sooty

Thanks Jonathan

I had 2 copies of the assembly guide in PDF format safely stored but both appear to have been corrupted and windows/ adobe tell me they cannot be repaired. Has anyone got a copy please that they could forward to me. Thanks

Just had the same debate with Phil Harris at Road and Race. I had followed the Quaife advice and put in GL5 Fuchs 75w 90 synthetic but Phil's says that's too heavy and Redline NOT at 70/75 w 80 is much better

If you get refoamed, the leather looks ok you can specify extra layer of extra scrum but don't go wild as the leather has to stretch over only extra depth. Also when the leather cover is off give it a good clean and recognition with something like Gliptone leather cleaner and reconditioned which will make it feel sort and luxurious

Nigel, have you checked the wiring, normally on a car that age, mine is 1989, the reverse light is operated via a permanent live and a switched earth at the gearbox switch

Definitely not using Scotchloks- leave those to the cowboys fitting cheap towbars. Piggyback crimp female with spade attached https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/piggy-back-category_large.jpg Will be checking the fuse rating thanks

Trying to finish the wiring of a Facet fuel pump on my 89 xf and running through a relay mounted on the bulkhead so I can keep the cable runs short and neat. Looking for the nearest switched live which appears to be the double green wires going into the brake switch. Is there any reason why this cannot be used via a piggy back crimp connector. Both the permanent live and the relay are fused and cable is 11 amp Thinwall ( projected max load is 7amp). All advice gratefully received

Graham, understand the reluctance but wire brushing and then prime and leave overnight with Pod15 Metal Ready will provide a sound base that'll stand up better than most powder coating

Graham, understand the reluctance but wire brushing and then prime and leave overnight with Pod15 Metal Ready will provide a sound base that'll stand up better than most powder coating

I sell Lithium batteries for Golf Trolleys and the last 18 months has been a nightmare in the Li market as getting supplied out of China has been very challenging as most shippers have avoided shipping what are defined as dangerous goods. Powerlite were very active but have now pulled out of the market. Yes they are expensive but they do have a much longer life span of properly looked after. Good ones will have an internal battery management system pcb that stops the battery being overly charged or discharged. In terms of lifespan , and here I am quoting cyclic use data, a lead acid battery will have a design life of 200 cycles whereas the equivalent LiFePo4 battery can be expected to achieve 2000 cycles at roughly 4 times the cost. The mathematics is clear. Charging profiles are very different so you MUST use a lithium compliant charger on a lithium battery and NOT use a lead acid charger

Sorry chaps- what's this heater thing?

Sorry- double post

Eventually got hold of TTV and now got a replica of Taz's flywheel. Looking forward to meeting it back up with quite close ratio box. Should be a bit livelier

Advice please re lightened flywheel suppliers as I'm struggling to get a price out of TTV, having sent 2 enquiries via their web site and telephoned them. Is this normal service? I have found another supplier - RWD Motorsport in Colne Lancs - has anyone got any experience of their products?

Thanks Chris - I have messaged Joe

To fit Momo Mod27c. Should measure 120mm wide by 120mm high

No 7wotw, still on mechanical but winter project is to replace with Facet Silvertop, filter king and new pipes over insulated with firesleeve. Gearbox is coming out anyway as that's being fitted with close ratio gears etc so I should be OK getting into the tunnel

1700xf

Another vote for SGS. Makes moving the Seven around the garage so much easier

Xfs do not start quietly. Start up in the garage with door shut and hope you can open it before you choke!!! Make sure you have fresh petrol in the cards by starting the night before and keep everything crossed

When you have the headers off check that the mating surface , particularly 2 and 3 are flat. The distance between the studs can make it a bit more flexible and if you overtighten in an effort to get a seal you can bend the flange face and create a leak. Copper is the way to go, preferably dry but if necessary with a smear of high temp rtv (5990?)- Cometic gaskets are great for anything except exhausts unless both surfaces are absolutely flat.

Had my first experience of vapour lock last week. Stopped at Services after 20 mins in traffic jam. Took the bonnet off and left it 5 minutes and she fired straight up. Clearly need to insulate the fuel lines but what is the best option. Advice welcome

Alan, I had one of these originally and had no issues with tank vacuuming as a result of suction from the pump so I think it must vent through the lock mechanism

If you cannot get at the filler plug as Tazio suggests then remove the top cover and fill to the bottom of the filler. Do not overfill as it will just force its way past the seals and leak out, most likely into the tunnel and then the interior

5990 only good up to 300 degrees IIRC. Would be better solution to swage the inner out to create a tighter fit. Mine has no sealant and is a snug push fit with no leakage