Sooty
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Everything posted by Sooty
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Absolutely Ian-heat generated by a rotary will burn the paint if not expertly used. It is the dual action that keeps the heat at bay in the process of polishing out the imperfections in the surface of the paint/ lacquer. It is these tiny imperfections that diffuse reflected light making the surface look dull. DAS6 is a great bit of kit for the money
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Engine rattle from something attached to alternator belt
Sooty replied to Scotland North AR's topic in TechTalk
Alternator bearings? -
Hauling on the handbrake will never provide much retardation- they only need to be 16 % efficient to pass MoT at gvw 525kg. Once you have clean shoes correctly sprung in drums which are clean and score free all you can do is axjust the cable correctly. I got a marginal improvement by replacing the handbrake cable which had marginally stretched even though only ever used at MoT test. My old tester, now retired, used to want the lever pulled hard from outside the car to get the best result - hardly practical but never an issue at MoT on mine.
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I agree about not using self adhesive insulation tape. Sticky mess and it wont hold in place for more than a few months. I prefer spiral wrap
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17 years and I've only ever used my heated screen with the full hood on and in the cold rain. On the other hand I've not used the full hood for 15 years! Even with the half hood misting up is only an issue in torrential weather but using the heater only makes it worse- answer is - take the heater out as well.
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I enquired of Oxted about adding head restraints to my original seats- as yours but in leather as well as a local trimmer regularly featured on Car SOS and was lead to understand it was likely to be just as expensive to retrofit tubes to take the head pads as to buy new seats
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These look remarkably similar to Intatrims Voyager. The acid test is whether your seats have fibreglass or metal frame. Oxted use steel tube produced at Tubeform in Wolverhampton but Intatrim use fibreglass. Cover style is infinitely variable so you need to look at the frame to determine http://www.intatrim.co.uk/voyager.html
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Nikwax is a great product for reproofing but stitch holes and zips will always be weak spots and water is adept at finding the route of least resistance. On the wider issue I have always found the Tristan at SBFS is really helpful
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Warning light only solid on when either thermostat or override switches it onwith the fan . When driving cannot hear whether fan is on so warning light is vital as early warning of higher than desired temperature. As it is led it is v. bright and lightweight and alerts driver more quickly than the occasional review of gauges. Agree with the principle of building in lightness but there is real value in the early warning so it remains fully justified.
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That makes sense and sits well with the discussion Ive had with a local auto electrician. Car is on sorn from the end of this month so sounds like a winter job after the lowered floors and front hubs replacement.
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Thanks warning light is led so needs v little current to light it up. As the flickering only happens at 60+ I guess I'll need to connect voltmeter at the lamp end. In the meanwhile Ive got a message about the issue with Spal in Italy. My guess is that it will only require a small 12/15v diode operating upto 1a max
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Electric fan warning light flickers. I have a Spal 11" fan wired through block mounted stat which switches on fine when temp reaches 195deg F and off at 180deg F. as well as when fan override switch operated. Have a minor issue when pressing on above about 60 when the ram effect spins the fan and fan motor then generates a small current sufficient to make the warning light flicker. Is there a simple way of stopping this? My thinking is to insert some sort of diode into the line so that current will only flow in one direction - would this work and what sort of size diode would I need? All advice appreciated.
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Only time my under dash handbrake gets used is at MoT. Two years ago I ripped the nipple off the cable end ( awaits ribald comments) and had to fit a new cable. Tester always made me pull hard on the brake and then announce that it only needed to be 16% efficient given the weight of the Seven!!! Since then I hillstart using footbrake and throttle a la heel n' toe and ignore the handbrake. Line lock will not pass MoT unless it operates via a separate set of hydraulics. Its not as though we want to d o handbrake turns and if we w a nt the back end to slide then power and lsd do the trick
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http://Www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/
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I only use mine with half doors as otherwise the buffetting is almost as unpleasant as without the deflectors. The problem is the air rushing around the screen is not very effectively deflected as the deflectors in standard form lay too flat against the bodywork. At least in Spain the rushing air is warm
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Is this any good? http://gunson.co.uk/product/77141
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Fell your pain. Been there and this winters project is to strip the interior and replace lined with heat reflective foil. Last summer we had cockpit temperatures in excess of 40 deg whilst on the NC500. Something had to be done. This is after we had wrapped the headers to keep radiant heat in the engine bay down www.textiletechnologies.co.uk/shieldtex-780.html Website is crap but product is thin, strong and feels up to the job. Cut to shape and glue on with high temperature contact adhesive.
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Madmalcs argument makes sense. What crankcase breathing have you got? Standard was to route via a small breather can under the rear carb I to the inlet manifold but a much better option is to route into the rocker cover at the front end and another to exit at the rear into a catch tank to catch and condense oil suspended leaving drier air to vent below the car. Did this on my 89 xf 18 years ago and no fumes. PM me if you want photos
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Jonathan Just to add to your table, I use a PC545 which quotes 460cca. Just fitted my third one, previous 2 having lasted 9 years each- pretty good for a small 13ah unit. Relocated mine down by the starter motor thus shortening the cable runs
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Derek, I had a similar issue which turned out to be a loose spade connection on the starter motor . Bouncing a pot hole could have caused it to temporarily break free but even a small amount of contact enables starter to work and it can drop back into contact under gravity - very frustrating but nipped up the female spade to a snug fit and problem solved. S a me problem on the alternator can cause the ignition light to behave erratically
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Metallastic bushes can disintegrate in 500 miles d e pending on how and where driven and the amount of oil contamination. I wouldn't therefore rule this out. Polybushes would be better but the Powerflex options appear to be for Dedion rather that Ital LA. I'm not sure if they are the same bush but the Powerflex web site makes no mention of LA suitability
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Had a similar problem but with the on/on switch between dip and main shorting which also blew the main beam fuse so side and dip worked but not main.
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Fuse? Main and dip should be on different fuses
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Toyo 888r- great grip but dont expect the s a me mileage as you got on the MGs. Softer compound in the 888rs than the T1r
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Thats great thank you
