Sooty
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Everything posted by Sooty
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Taz, see pm
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Had this issue on my Radtec with silicone hoses a few years ago. Solved the problem with a smear of clear rtv silicone on the rad necks and dont overtighten the hose clips
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MoT rules nust changed apparently - led conversions now an automatic fail
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Alan, its tight, especially if youve got electrics/ relays fixed to the nearest chassis rails. Mine came out, separated from the gearbox which needs supporting, easily with the alternator and water pump removed. When reinstalling I fitted a slightly smaller billett crank pulley which created a bit more room without adversely impacting on alternator output even with slower revs
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Alan, do you want to retain the bench or would you be better making up steel straps between the chassis rails and fitting adjustable seats
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Check the tightness of the connections on the starter. There is a small spade connector that often seems to swell when warm and doesnt then excite the solenoid. A gentle squeeze with pliers so it a tight fit will sort it- you dont need to ask how I know
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Fitted a Wosp to my XF in the summer. Wow what a difference, higher spin rate and less drain evident on voltmeter. You need to know what ring gear you have on your flywheel but most are 135 teeth on xfs in which case you need the pinto fitting. Autoelectrical supples are the cheapest- to the point of brassing off other wosp dealers as well as wosp themselves
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Stephen, if your floor is load bearing then definitely go with Stainless rivets and upgrade to 5mm so you can squirt in plenty of ACF50 or similar which will help not only reduce the corrosion tendency but also bind the residue of the drilled out rivets and stop them rattling. On older models the seat/ driver load is taken by steel straps across the chassis rails so ally rivets are ok but I'd still have a few 5mm rivets rather than all 4mms so you can squirt in rustproofing
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Without going stupid with the plastic money and given that most modern oils have reduced zinc content and Crossflows need zinc to improve the cam and rocker lubrication I have been persuaded that Valvoline VR1 20w50 is as good as it gets. You may hear recommendations re additives and there are many versions of snake oil out there but ZDDP will improve to zinc content of the modernised multigrade. Ive tried 10w40 and feel that it is just a bit too thin for my crossflow with extra carry into the catch tank when given a good thrashing.
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I got rid of my points/ condenser set up about 18 years ago because of the inaccessibility issues. Fitted Lumenition optronic set which lasted about 10 years before it chewed itself to bits for reasons I never discovered. I moved over to Aldon Ignitor which elimated the moving parts except for the rotor are which is robust and easily changed. Since then no issues ( touching wood as he writes this). Whilst doing any ignition upgrades its always advisable to ensure the ignition leads are up to the job. Magnecor Competition leads are the way to go.
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German made ethanol resistant stainless braided hose from www.Carbuildersolutions.com
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So, 1700 Crossflow looking to upgrade alternator and starter. What options - Wosp or Brise? and which models?
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What a bloody excellent idea. Thanks
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So, engine is out and it is clear that the half moon at the front was not locked into the sump rail gasket. Small wonder there is an oil leak. When removing it is clear that the bell housing dirt plate bottom section was also missing. Is the photo shown normal? Full dirt plate is available from Burton Power. Any logic in the bottom of the bell housing being open?
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Nothing sinister just links to the solution in previous archives I can never find via the forum search. Grateful to JK for brilliant support. What the club is about.
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JK thats brilliant thank you.
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Although I've had my Caterham for 18 years I'm just about to take the engine out for the first time. Got all the ancillaries off so now only held by mountings and bellhousing Are there any tips for getting the lump out without removing the gearbox (Type2 4speed). I have engine crane and stand but what lifting points are used to squeeze it up and out. Guidance would be most welcome
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Which gasket sealant. Just fitted a new sump on my Crossflow and as advised by manufacturer these were dry fitted . Got a leak which I think is between the cork gasket and the half moon crank seals. What is the best gasket sealant. Going to replace the cork with controlled swell twin laminate competition gasket so want to make sure there is a seal between the sump rail and the half moon gasket
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DIY Guide: Sump Guard for CSR (and possibly other metric Series 3 cars)
Sooty replied to Shortshift's topic in TechTalk
Cannot beat a polished bottom -
Decent roll of tools Fan belt Clutch cable Throttle cable Aerosol tyre repair Tow rope Box of spare bulbs Warning triangle Jack
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Have a look at my profile picture
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My Crossflow was weighed by my MoT man so he could be certain he adjusted the braking efficiency test correctly. Mine came out at 525kg with half tank and spare wheel on.
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Speak to t h e vdo technical team in Erdington . Birmingham. I had a problem with my Cockpit White marine tacho when I replaced t h e original black faced units in my 89 xf. I had researched th e web extensively for a solution to the issue of wild fluctuation. Three minute call and a solution offered-brilliant https://www.vdo.co.uk/meta-navigation/contact/
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Photos sent by email Sean
