Sooty

7wow, correct

Caterham lower wishbone with bolt through winged bracket. Spherical bearing is in the new upright

Almost completed my sealed system conversion. A round Freelander tank fitted at the front of the upper cruciform chassis tubes after trimming 5mm off the base and mounting it on an L shaped bracket fitted to the original now unused nearside radfan bracket. The heater return pipe diverted from the heater outflow outlet( heater removed years ago) to the outflow from the new header tank- no trimming required and a Samco end cap being fitted to the heated flow pipe. Thermostat housing replaced with Fiests unit with vertical breather outlet and existing pipe diverted from old open catch tank to new header tank, again without trimming. Existing working 82 deg thermostat reinstalled bbut with a 1.5mm hole drilled through the plate to facilitate bleeding of any air in the system when the engine is cold. The header now sits under the nosecone with 1.5mm of clearance- tight but ok given the solidity of the header tank fixing. It will be a relief to be able to see how much coolant is in the system and with the return f t om the header going into the lower pressure side of the water pump both gravity and suction should ensure the block remains constantly full and cooling

Just completed swap over to Canleys trunnionless set up. Straight swap for the double wishbone set up on the Caterham. Not yet back on the road due to lockdown and I will have the geometry professionally set up as soon as this bloody virus permits. I also changed the hubs as well as the uprights as this brought the benefit of much bigger bearings

Thanks Roger"the King". Knew there would be a full, lucid and convincing explanation. Next upgrade has now been identified!!!

Try Opie oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/gow=magnetic20sump20plug

Basic question. What advantage comes from a sealed system? My 89 Supersprint has open system with the heater having been removed. I get overheating if stuck in traffic but otherwise my Radtec radiator and 11" Spal fan cope well.

Try either of the Darrens at Radtec in Cannock. Replaced my old xf rad with Ally version f err om stock inc Spal 11" fan for £250

Csk pop rivets 4mm or 3/16"

You will struggle to get the wrap tight enough with the headers on the engine even with the steering column out and the manifold studs loosened. Unless the wrap is really tight it will unravel. IIRC the wrap needs to go on wet so that when dried out a little shrinkage tightens the bind further. Take the headers off is my recommendation.

If you believe the instructions you need POR solvent thinners to clean brushes. TIP: You can clean brushes in acetone at less than half the cost

As per Nicks comments above but take s ome photos to remind you later which spade goes where in the H4 connector

I had some lengthy discussions with James Whiting about brake upgrades on my road use xf after I suffered fading on EBC Greenstuff pads. Conclusion was that standard calipers (type 14) with standard solid discs fresh brake fluid and uprated pads would be more than adequate upto about 150 bhp. After some research I went for Pagid blue. They do need warming up but when they are they are like a parachute and throwing out an anchor and no fade. There is a bit of low grade squeal at low speed but overall feel and pedal pressure is firm and progressive. Only warning is that they MUST be properly bedded in ( clear instructions provided) with deglazed discs. They are a bit pricey but I will use the same again when the time comes.

I put double poly bobbins on my front and rear exhaust mounts several years ago and not yet had to replace them. The old rubber ones lasted less than two years

Its years ago now and the original 52mm holecutter replaced but it was f ine toothed and a solid cutting ring and decent arbor rather than one of the cheapo split cutters. If you are cutting non circular holes then I'd use a dremel very carefully.

Cover the cf with masking tape before drawing your layout. Test the drawing in the car from the drivers seat. Mark the position of the scuttle tubes. Bugger the measure twice business- measure 6 times. Cut with sharp cutters slowly. Take your time

Taz

Angle of seat back is slightly upright on standard seats and lowered floors fitted th create better driving position

I went through this debate after a 2k miles trip last year. I looked at Oxteds option of the newer S type and the GT seat but neither achieved what I wanted. Tillets were not an option as the hips just too tight in the tillets. I ended up with a better solution bespoke made with me specifying the leather, the pattern of perforations, extra thigh and lumber support and headrests and at half of Oxteds quote for GT seats I had also investigated having headrest tubes welded into the existing frame but Aldridge Trimming ( who do a lot of work for Car SOS) advised that it would be more expensive than new seats

I had standard Supersprint head up to 2006 using Valvemaster additive. No sign of any damage when I replaced the head with a big valve Vulcan head with hardened seats

Sorry Jonathan. I tried to search prior to the original post but got nowhere. Your link was helpful in getting at historical discussions. I'd really like to talk to someone who has upgraded uprights and hubs. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Jonathan. I tried searching but didnt get anything relevant even using your link- though I am a technophobic luddite!

Has anybody fitted replacement uprights - I've been looking at the kits supplied by Canley Classics together with the replacement hubs. My 7 is now 30 years old and despite regular lubrication I am fearful of trunnion collapse given wider wheels and sticky tyres. Id appreciate feedback on the uprights and hubs

If you want to add extra protection for suspension and weather accessible tube I use Renaissance wax - started using it after visiting a railway museum and talki g to s ome of the guys preserving really old restored steam locos. Apparently it is sworn by at the British Museum. I have seen examples where unpainted ste e l is kept rust free just using this stuff which has to be applied very sparingly so a little goes a long way. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Picreator-Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=80333100305314&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvqmt=e&keywords=renaissance+wax&qid=1574515727&sr=8-1