Sooty

Derek, I fitted a Freed comm t8 set which cost about £30 off ebay and gives intercomm upto 800ft of free air, less when building in the way. About an hour to fit to the Peltors. Can also pick up bluetooth gadgets so music, phone, radio also accessible if frowned upon in the seven

Sounds like alternator issue, how tight are the connectors on the back of the alternator. They do suffer from heat damage from the No1 primary and the wiring goes hard and brittle as a result.

I use flare titanium plugs and/ or Peltor Optime3 defenders. Long motorway trips definitely both. Never without protection- you only lose your hearing once through pe r manent damage

Pete G see pm

Made my own out of 1.2mm aluminium sheet for my 89 xf where the floor is non structural as the seats are mounted on steel straps between the chassis rails. The lowered pans are only the rear section dropping the rear by 50mm. New steel straps welded up to create sharp angles to follow the floor pan profile's made out of 30mmx4mm steel Floor pan corners ally brazed. Having removed the rear half of the old flat floor sheet the 2 new lowered pans left the normally boxed in tunnel open so a small removable flat centre section recovered the prop shift so still enclosed. Cost was about £30 for the ally sheet and about £12 for the steel straps plus another 10 or so for sundries such as welding/ brazing rods, silicone sealant and pop rivets. Bargain and much lighter than a full lowered pan in 2mm structural ally

Well seized but got it out with more penetrating fluid and a bit of judicious application of hammer and punch through the bellhousing plug

Messing about stripping an old Type2 gearbox ahead of getting Quaife close ratio gear set fitted. Problem is that the gear selector rod is jammed in the gearbox tail. At the moment I've got it standing on the bell housing with the tail end flooded in penetrative fluid but it is not budging. I've tried punching it via the plug cap in the bell housing but it's only moved about 20mm and the plug is against some sort of stop on the casing. I need to get it stripped and the gears etc out ahead of soda blasting prior to it going off to a specialist for rebuild Any hints?

Messing about stripping an old Type2 gearbox ahead of getting Quaife close ratio gear set fitted. Problem is that the gear selector rod is jammed in the gearbox tail. At the moment I've got it standing on the bell housing with the tail end flooded in penetrative fluid but it is not budging. I've tried punching it via the plug cap in the bell housing but it's only moved about 20mm and the plug is against some sort of stop on the casing. I need to get it stripped and the gears etc out ahead of soda blasting prior to it going off to a specialist for rebuild Any hints?

Messing about stripping an old Type2 gearbox ahead of getting Quaife close ratio gear set fitted. Problem is that the gear selector rod is jammed in the gearbox tail. At the moment I've got it standing on the bell housing with the tail end flooded in penetrative fluid but it is not budging. I've tried punching it via the plug cap in the bell housing but it's only moved about 20mm and the plug is against some sort of stop on the casing. I need to get it stripped and the gears etc out ahead of soda blasting prior to it going off to a specialist for rebuild Any hints?

Did mine about 15 years ago, the hard way with scuttle on. Easy enough job overall if your new dash comes pre cut for dials and switches but if you have a blank dash then you can relocate switches and dials to a more effective layout. I spent about a week upside down with my legs draped over the roll bar and head in the footwells Your own design requires lots of masking tape, sharp hole saws and at least 15 measurements for every cut

Paul If you want the stainless really clean then welders pickling paste is the stuff to shift all the heat discolouration but it is highly acidic and will take off paint and skin so needs handling carefully. It is at least twice as effective as harpic extra. The discolouration sits in the uneven surface of the metal so unless it it polished to a much flatter finish the discolouration will return as soon as it gets hot again. Hand polishing to that extent is a complete ball ache and you will need mechanical buffing which is still hard and laborious, but worth it, or pay a professional

Paul - see PM

Rubber bobbins are not as robust as poly versions. I found that the stresses caused by the weight of the can extending out from the bracket leads to premature failure of the bobbin. A double bobbin solution helps. Will post a photo when I can work out how.

Alan, Domehead roofing bolt with a rubber washer between grp clam and bracket

Rogue Motorsport are the cheapest I found and they publish prices on their web site which many wont. Mine turned up in 72 hours https://www.roguemotorsport.com/index.php/motorsport/toyo-r888r-tyres

Taz, Y16 defo the ones but they can and do deteriorate very quickly if contaminated with oil. So axle fill levels and therefore axle breather activity, crankcase venting if you vent catch tank to rear can make a real difference. Ive had them go in as little as 750 miles!

And remember the reverse light is operated by switch negative rather than positive so if there is an earth other than the switch it will illuminate

And remember the reverse light is operated by switch negative rather than positive so if there is an earth other than the switch it will illuminate

Taz and Swotw both on the money.

Ah! Alan "Toughie" you mean that when the wife is aboard you are not allowed to use the revs to generate sufficent heat. My SWMBO also says I am a mug to spend as much as I do on my 7 - it's only a car why d o you need to f ix s omething that isn't broken- bless them

Heater? Whats a heater? Took mine out 2002 and not missed it once in my 89 xf. There is enough heat soak through the tunnel even though it is insulated. Heaters are for wimps - awaits explosive backlash!

Some of the 7 grilles are plasticoted and getting paint to securely bind is a challenge. Its not difficult to get the plastic off to get back to metal when standard painting guidelines apply

Standard flywheel with the 4 speed type 2 gearbox is 135 teeth and the pinto fitting is the correct starter for that arrangement. I swapped mine over to a wosp unit last year and the difference in turnover speed is very noticeable making starting that much easier and with less battery drain. The guts of the starter can vary but the hitachi model is much lighter and the solenoid can be moved lower away from the heat of the exhaust. Not cheap but a good upgrade

My crossflow was jetted and timed on 95 ron and runs happily. I tend to give it a treat with 98 one tank in 4 and whilst there is a marginal improvement in pick up I'm not sure it makes a real difference. The bigger issue for me is the proposed switch to E10 as this will certainly push up the price of residual E5 to accommodate classic cars. I can see a replacement of fuel pipes and seals coming on.