Sooty
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Everything posted by Sooty
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Just had a nosecone painted by Ian Brittain at Brewood just outside Stafford. He has lots of expereience painting exotic cars. Works on his own in some old farm buildings but does a great job. He has a second nosecone of mine for finishing and painting. His number is 01902 851860. Email is Brittain motors@hotmail.co.uk Has a regular flow of work and regularly booking with a few weeks notice which reflects his reputation
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S3
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Just got mine back from a local paint shop. New cone , acid etched primer, 3 colour coats and 3 clearcoats £80. Good job.
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So, nosecone back from the painters after brief ovine meeting on the Fish & Chip run. Can someone take a measurement for me please from the front of the nosecone to the centre of the badge. I understand CC put a dimple in the standard position but no such guidance on mine from Redline
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TADTS. Slow and steady wins the race!
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On my way to L7C meet last night a blow back in rear dcoe 40 cause a fire in the k&n burning the cotton filter. Questions - what is the probable cause and where is best to get replacement
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Odyssey PC545. Had 2 in 18 years- nuff said
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I use a PC545 on an ally tray mounted low by the starter motor. First battery lasted 10 years , current one still going strong after 8 years
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I use a transcend 200 in my tin top. Really clear pictures through top quality lens structure. Date and time stamp on recording and programmable for recording duration. Uprade to 220 would give gps speed recording which may or may not be desirable if the film is ever used evidentially.
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Plenty of places you can get a repair. Problem is that when the repair soldering is done the metallurgy of solder onto deteriorated metal will only last a short while. I wint through this when I had the original core replaced with a 3 layer core. Improved for a couple of years but then replaced from Radtec. Suggest you try a can of radweld which should control most weeps while you save up for a decent replacement. Speak to either of the Darrens at Radtec ( top blokes) and you can normally get from stock a new rad and 11" fan for £250 . Bigger fan has certainly helped keep my xf temps more stable.
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Plenty of places you can get a repair. Problem is that when the repair soldering is done the metallurgy of solder onto deteriorated metal will only last a short while. I wint through this when I had the original core replaced with a 3 layer core. Improved for a couple of years but then replaced from Radtec. Suggest you try a can of radweld which should control most weeps while you save up for a decent replacement. Speak to either of the Darrens at Radtec ( top blokes) and you can normally get from stock a new rad and 11" fan for £250 . Bigger fan has certainly helped keep my xf temps more stable.
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Sorry double post
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As per above. Low beam is blue/ red, high beam is blue/ white. Common should be black
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As a piece of engineering this is a botch and Caterham should hang their heads in shame for delivering such a crappy mounting design when all that is needed is a slightly longer mounting leg before the 90 deg bend . This would move the rad forward by perhaps only a centimetre but not knowing what the clearance is between the top of the rad and the inside of the nosecone the fit might then get tight. Whatever, the design looks like its not been given appropriate thought
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Thanks Ged. That suggests 3.89:1 which makes sense
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Actual circumference of inflated tyre is 1850mm
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Trying to work out what final drive ratio I have. Confused because my understanding is the Ital open diff had either 4.1 ,3.89 or 3.64:1. Can some maths guru out there please check my calcs. 13" wheels with 185/70 profile yokos gives 872 revs per mile ( checked on tyresizecalculator.com and by physical measurement of circumference ). 70mph = 4000rpm ( checked on calibrated speedo and gps). 4th gear = 1:1. So 70 miles = 240000 engine revs and 872x 70= 61040 wheel revs. This indicates a final drive ratio of 3.932:1 ignoring wheelspin and assuming tyre pressures ok. So, what ratio have I got and what am I missing
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I have expanded metal grill behind 7 grill and they are spring fitted into holes in the group. Today was a good test as Caterham at 70 mph versus Pheasant is a no contest. Grills bounced back into the radiator cavity but no damage to the nosecone or the grills or the rad
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The master has spoken
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The master has spoken
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Best current solution is Valvoline VR1 which is mineral 20w 50 and has necessary zinc additive. Opie oils great price and service
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Need to crack the head off then if only to check whether hardened seats in and state of the valve guides
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I got mine from Paul Blanchot at Vulcan
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Go unleaded head - gives you the chance to upgrade at the same time as it is almost certain the valve stem seals are the culprit and as MOT will be smoke test only you could be forced into it at some point anyway.
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Camthorne*smile*
