Beverlonian

Much as above, lay the roof down hold the studs that fit to the rear of the boot and lay this forward until the whole back window section is flat (visible). Fold the side window in over the back window until full window is in vew then roll from the back of the roof forward. If that makes no sense at all I'll scan the page out of the owners handbook tomorrow and post you a link. Still se7ening in the garage

If you have one? Look up your local Unipart Automotive and save yourself the postage. I did. 😬 Still se7ening in the garage

I think its the part of the casting sticking out about 1" in and 1" down from top left corner of picture. Or is it where the red plug is? Its that long ago I can't remember here Still se7ening in the garage

Hi Gary, all depends on if your going to fit the tonneau, poppers and all. I left my metal strip in place because I never considered myself much of a taylor or in great need of the cover. Time will tell. Hope linky appears or you can make a mess of the drilling opp.here Still se7ening in the garage

Cheers GJT got it sussed. Should have been able to do it cloaked to avoid embarrassment.

No joy so far in what ever order I try!

Can I do here? Click here to go to CC edited cos the first one didn't go where I wanted it to....2nd attempt try somewhere else. YEP got one to CC, try again with original destination./ Just ignore me I'll go away soon. here Edited by - adcatman on 28 Apr 2008 21:55:44]here Edited by - adcatman on 28 Apr 2008 21:57:20 Edited by - adcatman on 28 Apr 2008 22:03:00

I'm sure Brian won't mind me pointing you to this shot. I cant do the here thing! Preliminary operational tests were inconclusive... ALTERNATIVELY...the BL88DY thing blew up when we threw the switch.

TMA Wellcome to the fun! I had lots of similar fitting problems on my Roadsport SV. My method was to walk away then come back to the build without the frustration. Most of the time It just took a different angle of approach and it all slotted together. I never had to hit anything! Double check your manual against the CC online manual to make sure the washers on the lower wish bone are correct, in my case the manual was out of date by the time I got it, and yes you should have an anti-roll bar. Good luck with the light brackets, another interesting fit. Preliminary operational tests were inconclusive... ALTERNATIVELY...the BL88DY thing blew up when we threw the switch. Edited by - adcatman on 11 Apr 2008 22:24:10 Edited by - adcatman on 11 Apr 2008 22:25:07

Sullivans Corner heading into town at 6:45pm tonight. Who-zat cat Shut up, brain, or I'll stab you with a Q-Tip!

Dink Spirits.... much cleaner. keepin left

I did mine a couple of weeks ago with Sikaflex 221, damn good stuff, I reckon you will break the wing before you break the bond. Take some time to prepare the surfaces to get a good job. Liquid etched the Bighead fasteners and just took the sheen off the inside of the wing with emery. Andy keepin left

If you put the long bolts in the lower fixing the body gets wider than an SV! keepin left

Ivaan, I got my radiator with no fan legs too and I went searching for what I should have got. If you look at the latest build manual on the CC site you may be able to point them to what you want. I did and the parts arrived next day. Good Luck Andy keepin left

Things are looking up, I just received my tacho. Has anyone else? keepin left

I think that the mail from Caterham appeared here before anyone was ready to move, last Thursday Michelle (bless) knew nothing apart from "we are sending out letters" to those effected, Friday the letter arrives and a phonecall later she said it was return the old one before we send you another now Monday and its all OK we will send you the replacement and then you return the old unit. I know Caterham are a relatively small company but a lot of us have paid a good deal of cash, please take a deep breath before you make a move. Its easier on us all that way. PS The cars still bloody ace and I've not even driven one yet! Edited by - adcatman on 25 Feb 2008 23:13:34

The stainless is tough stuff but a new drill bit should do the job. Make sure its for metal? keepin left

Seems like a few of these add ons scrape paint. Stainless steel sill protectors do a great job! I learnt on the second one that if I tuck the plastic bag that they came in underneath during fitting it can be pulled out later without damaging the paintwork. Might the same method work with the scuttle trim? keepin left

Looks interesting. If nylon is good for impact resistance it looks good for the chassis, how big an item can be nylon coated keepin left

Mine is a recent Caterham and the pipe goes under the cross member there is no need for a cut out. You just trying to lose some weight! keepin left

I am just about to fix my wings with Bighead fasteners and Sikaflex 221. I thought I'd bought the stuff that I'd seen someone else use with success. Other than this all I have available is some Henkel Terostat 9220, what about that? It looks although it has the same sort of properties ie good adhesion, flexibility and resistance to salt. I was going to use the same method as I read above, fasten bigheads to stays then plonk on the wing. I also considered using some luggage straps to tie round the wing & wheel to hold them in place. You can always count me in on the trial if you can give me an idea if I'm on the right track! keepin left

I might be one but anyone know how long its going to say NOVICE under my name? Andy a NOVICE!!!!!!!!!

Surgical spirit's good for sticky stuff Andy

Hi Ray. Welcome to my world, I hit this problem a couple of weeks ago, my cable was long by about 50mm. This was with the pedal at the mid position and the adjustment on the throttle assembly half way. I sorted mine as said previously by bending above the pivot, I just prompted Caterham first in case it broke when I bent it! 100mm does seem a lot I'd challenge them to give you a pedal that fitted the cable or vice versa. Regards Andy

Is anyone out there? keeping left