Area Representative z7 Posted February 17, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted February 17, 2012 I have a pinhole in my fuel tank. Any recommendations for fixing it, please? Is it possible to repair it in situ? I've found some epoxies that look suitable: here, and I've seen mention JB Weld on some marine forums. Anyone have any experience of these? Thanks z7 Edited by - z7 on 2 Aug 2012 19:06:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 For the sake of draining the tank, safely evaporating all fumes, having it properly fixed what you're suggesting is a (with all respect) a poor substitute and at best a kludge and will probably create a bigger failure in the future. I know a Se7ener who went the path you're suggesting. He had his car recovered from Milan because the sealant slowly dissolved over a period of time, mucked up his fuel pump, fuel lines, etc. I am not attempting to point out anything but the reality.....your call.....I'd have the tank out personally.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 repaired several tanks back in the day with petro patch They do a putty as well but never tried it, always used the paint on and layered material type. never had one fail Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewie Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Depending on where abouts it is and if you're patient, try this. You'll need a soft metal washer/gasket (sump plug gasket) with say Ø8 mm id and a M8 screw and nut. size isn't too important. remove and drain the tank. Drill out the pinhole to Ø8 mm, pass your screw through it with the washer and tighten the nut. A blob of petrol resistant sealant helps. The fiddly bit is get the screw through the hole. You need small hands and bones of rubber. Of course if the pinhole is in the corner then you're shafted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiddy1 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 My tank has been patched with suitable epoxy on the outside and has been fine for the last 10 years, so as long as you choose one that is petrol resistant and you clean it well you will be fine Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted February 18, 2012 Thanks all for your replies. Just what I was atfer. Steve, I had considered the points you raised hence the post. Though, these expoxy solutions exist, so I presume they work and are suitable. Of the tank out and repair route, as far as I know, there are options on the repair too: weld (or the ali equivalent) or pour in a solution which coats the inside and seals when set. Does anyone have any exprience of these? I also rang a local ali fuel tank mfr who gave a price of £150 to repair! Any more thoughts welcome. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I've repaired a couple of tanks with epoxy , one is still going strong 12 years larer, the other 4 years later. Both used JB weld. Make sure you clean the area thoroughly first. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted February 19, 2012 Thanks Oily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Formston Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi z7 where is the leak is it about 4"to 5" from the left hand of the tank,as if it is I had a leak in same place and it was the weld on the baffle inside the tank had pulled through the the lower outer skin so I repaired it with Thiocol Aircraft fuel tank sealant and about 6 months later I got another leak where the Baffle pulled through the front face of the Tank so I took the tank out and got it tig welded on all the face's for about 2" long through the outter skin into the Baffle flang, as they only tack weld the left hand baffle in place they don't do a proper weld so it pulls through after a bit Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hi Paul, thanks for the info. From memory it was more like 12-18" from the right hand end of the tank, looking up from underneath. I'll have another look with you info in mind. Thanks. z7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted August 2, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted August 2, 2012 My repair has now failed. The JB Weld has become softened, presumably by the petrol, and cracked and it's easy to pick pieces of it off. Given all the positive experiences posted above; and JB Weld specifically states suitability for fuel tanks, does anyone have any ideas why it has failed? What have I done wrong? I cleaned up the area and applied JBW directly to the tank and over the hole. Perhaps I should have used a patch of something over the hole first and then applied JBW? z7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Possible problems are the surface was not clean enough or the product was not mixed enough. If it looks like it disolves i guess the product was not mixed enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Petrol is the most dangerous substance you are going to use in your car, why mess with its container? take the tank out and get it welded professionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 2, 2012 Member Share Posted August 2, 2012 Quoting metal mickey: Petrol is the most dangerous substance you are going to use in your car...I know what you mean but testosterone runs it close... Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 2 Aug 2012 23:52:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Just get the tank out and down to a local engineering firm with a TIG welder. It'll need to be purged first but once repaired you'll never have to worry about it again. It could be that some of these repair materials are affected by the new compounds used in modern fuels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted August 3, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted August 3, 2012 Quoting Jonathan Kay: Quoting metal mickey: Petrol is the most dangerous substance you are going to use in your car...I know what you mean but testosterone runs it close... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 On second thoughts the most dangerous dangerous part is the driver,usually fueled on testosterone.... But that said why bodge a repair on a fuel tank And yes no doubt ethanol in modern fuels will not help the integrity of said bodge. Think the unthinkable, you have a rear end bump and mr insurance assessor discovers said bodge, do you think that will be condusive to an agreeable settlement with a burnt out car and you in hospital with burns? All for the sake of doing the job properly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 3, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted August 3, 2012 I did this a couple of years ago ..... just get it welded! Take the tank out, give it a good wash out with water and some washing-up liquid, then get a professional to repair it. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted August 3, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks all for the replies. Much appreciated. My first thought when I saw the failed repair was to tank out and repair or replace. A few q's re repair: What should I be looking for from a repairer? Is TIG welding the only option - should I run if something else is suggested? What would I need to do to prepare the tank for repair - washing out is mentioned? WIll I need to remove all ancillaries? thanks again z7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I did this earlier in the year - tank out; pump & sender off; pour residual fuel into a can;leave in sun outside for a couple of days to evaporate residual fuel; hose pipe & washing liquid a couple of times; rinse; leave in sun to dry; local welder on scruffy industrial estate; £20 to fix the crack on the breather/ reweld. All in, to took a couple of weeks to get it all done including refit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Slotter Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Quoting z7: Is TIG welding the only option - should I run if something else is suggested? Technically not, but for small, one-off jobs on thin section aluminium it is what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 z7 its worth adding a rough idea of your location to your profile as sometimes contributors can recommend a local firm or other resource to help you out. Doesn't need to be too precise if you don't want it to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Quoting TomB: I did this earlier in the year - tank out; pump & sender off; pour residual fuel into a can;leave in sun outside for a couple of days to evaporate residual fuel; hose pipe & washing liquid a couple of times; rinse; leave in sun to dry; local welder on scruffy industrial estate; £20 to fix the crack on the breather/ reweld. All in, to took a couple of weeks to get it all done including refit. Better than this is to empty it, then shove the inlet over an exhaust pipe of a car. This will remove all explosive gasses in the tank. (I don't guarantee this though, in case you blow your welders head off.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 4, 2012 Member Share Posted August 4, 2012 This thread seems to be aware of the risks already. In the next village to ours a man recently died after taking an angle grinder to an oil drum with the intention of making a barbecue. It is thought that residual fumes exploded. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted August 5, 2012 Author Area Representative Share Posted August 5, 2012 Thanks, again for all the replies. Paul, fair point. If anyone can recommend a repairer in SE London or thereabouts. WIlling to travel but with my 7 being my only car, it may be a little tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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