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Dr Slotter

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Everything posted by Dr Slotter

  1. Seeing this made me realised I never did call (because it was when it was mentioned the seller was away and then it slipped my mind). Apologies OP!
  2. I'm interested in this. Where in the country are you?
  3. At work, we, and indeed many of our competitors, use a Drexler diff in very lightweight bike engined single seaters. It's quite a specialist application, but most people seem happy with them. Servicing/customer support is OK (via Germany IIRC).
  4. Parked up in the little car park by the roundabout, just down from the village/ZSL/NT Dunstable Downs.
  5. As Oily says, multiple injection events are common in diesels and are used, for example, to burn off the soot produced by the preceding injection/combustion event.
  6. If you have access to an inspection pit or decent height ramps, you can take the tank out by removing the bootfloor and then extracting from underneath the car. No need to take roll bar/cage off.
  7. Details here Jeff https://www.lotus7.club/guides/getting-started-guides/get-know-your-seven
  8. Lovely... but I did think "I can have a look at that when I'm at BookATrack at Donington on Thursday" so was slightly disappointed to see that you meant the USA car site www.bringatrailer.com and I'd have to go to Pennsylvania!
  9. In addition to the usual penetrants as SM25T suggests, if it is REALLY stuck you might find a shock load applied clockwise using a mallet and ring spanner does the job. I have a set of large ring spanners with a slot ground out of them for the wire to go through for this very job (and headlamp adjustment). I also concur with John about size and part number of lambda.
  10. These sensors have two prongs (electrodes) sticking out into fluid (i.e. the washer fluid here, but also works for other types of fluid) and the change in the circuit (usually capacitance) as a result of the fluid level getting low and the prongs now being in air tells the car that the level is low. It can also be a pair of metallic strips stuck up the side of the reservoir. Additives like RainEx necessarily have different electrical properties for them to work and/or stick to the prongs and confuse the control system.
  11. Part numbers being ground off is also pretty common for "pattern" parts that are actually made in the same factory on the same production line as the OEM parts but the OEM doesn't know/care.
  12. This may be what you mean, but I think even if you bought a new connector, re-connected all but the original earth wire, connect the new earth wire, assembled the 'tree' fully (i.e. all 6 wired pins into the plastic) and fit into housing, you'd then have to repeat all of that with a 3rd connector to put back as original. I don't think you can remove the the metal receptacle 'branches' out without breaking the plastic 'tree'. I guess you could cut the earth wire, splice in a piggyback pre-insulated connector in the appropriate direction, and then connect/reconnect whichever earth wire you wanted to use at a particular moment.
  13. The pin receptacles inside are all part of a single 'tree' so I don't think you can take them out individually like an Econoseal.
  14. AFAIK, that connector is a proprietary Ford connector (well, made by somebody else for Ford/Motorcraft) commonly used for MAF sensors as well as fuel pumps. Its part number is WPT-1091.
  15. What Piers300 is talking about are called 'Anderson jack plugs'.
  16. I imagine Peter means 'MacBook Pro'.
  17. You drove into Silverstone just after me this morning. I was in the white 7.
  18. Hello Steve, I will take these assuming you are still OK to post?
  19. It'll have been upgraded by XPower Engineering to their 200 bhp spec. (or a replacement engine of that spec.). XPower are (or at least were) a Ford tuner in Essex.
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