Dr Slotter

Yes, it was for the BMW diffs. The original design also sometimes allowed the topmost bolt heads of the carrier to impact the DD tube under extreme loadings (e.g. two up, luggage, driving quickly through a depression, suspension fully loaded vertically). ISTR that... - CC originally did an 'interim' design which there was an initial recall for in 2013 (IIRC), often at the same time as the 'rearrange the brake lines' recall. I think this was done relatively quickly, hence 'interim', for the race cars which would fully load the suspension more regularly. There probably wasn't time to wait for a fully re-engineered and re-tooled for manufacturing re-design. - When they then released the current re-engineered design for the new cars, CC did another recall to upgrade anyone with the 'interim' to the 'current'. - A couple of months ago CC were going through their list to capture anyone who they had missed. In my case, I'd never got round to getting them to move me from the 'interim' to the 'current'.

We'd just been to Helmsley/Harome during a weekend staying in Sleights. Was regretting not bringing the Seven until the rather moist drive home on Monday!

Was in the blue BMW that flashed you on the A169 just north of RAF Flyingdales. Had you been at Goathland for the Thoroughbred Car Show? Any good?

Penetrant, a shock tighten, then untighten. We also had an interesting Duratec/lambda-based discussion earlier this year when this came up before.

First main step for the basic 2l Duratecs is probably to move to throttle bodies plus associated complementary changes to ECU, cams, injectors, valve springs etc. as appropriate. Beyond that, you're into pistons, conrods etc. and mods to ancillaries like oil/cooling circuits. Here's a link to Premier Power's Duratec page which gives you an idea about what changes Stuart and co. make when they do it. Caterham also sell various kits and plenty of other places do similar as the Duratec is such a common engine. If you're on Facebook have a look for 'Duratec in Detail'.

I had a similar thing but it didn't get a far as a fatigue crack/fracture, just looked like it had been bent by a pair of pliers across the diameter of the bottom hole. I reckon it was because the droplink rose joints became stiff, so were not always vertical and in the same plane as the bracket, thus the force being transmitted through the droplink applied a small bending moment on that part of the bracket. The natural load cycling through the normal suspension motion eventually takes the bracket in to plastic deformation and then fatigue. Corrosion obviously speeds that up.

TBH I don't think there is much to learn from a Haynes of the vehicles that also use the Duratec/L engine. Most of it will be irrelevant (bodywork, suspension, electrics, exhaust etc.) and the engine installation in a Caterham is obviously quite different ( cooling/oil circuits, loom/ECU, inlet manifold and throttle setup, exhaust/after treatment, driveline etc.). Most of the detail about the ancillaries is in the CC asembly guides and if you were going for a full strip down you'd probably either already know what you were doing or be using the full service manual.

The change in spark plug spec. was probably when it became VCT/VVT.

You've looked at Polevolt?

Bilstein will refurb the damper units for you at £80 ea. + VAT.

Ideally we should use a 'Club' Google account (rather than someones personal or work one).

Surely a Google Sheet is what is required here?

And you regularly repeat that sequence over days/weeks/months? Does the level in the header tank ever go back up WITHOUT you adding fluid?

Gregs has a Duratec IIRC. How are you noticing the 'loss'? Varying level in the expansion/header tank?

http://www.sporting-reliants.com/images/Wheels/offset_diagram.gif

Booking form here.

I have, on occasion of boring motorway journeys and TMS being on, used one of the Pure solar powered portable radios successfully by putting it in the SBFS Wind Deflector central pocket. It means sunlight can get to it, the built-in aerial can be extended most of the way and you have a minimum of earphone cable to deal with.

Front damper are bolts are different.

Cheers Paul. As you may of guessed I was looking for Guy's details earlier.

Should there not be some details on this page other than the generic contact email? http://www.lotus7.club/about-us/team

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/3334-3308-thickbox.jpg There's a flat on the 'washer'. You might have to push the grit guard out of the way and then get a thin spanner on it. Unless you mean something different? I'm slightly confused by when you say you can loosen the nut but also that the threaded portion rotates.

I changed my SV tank recently and replaced/added foam tape to the angled sections. Mine leaked from the weld in the drivers side bottom corner (IYSWIM).

The issue with current CR500 tyres is that because (according to their tyre label at least) they have a Fuel Efficiency Class of 'G' (i.e. a rolling resistance coefficent ≥ 12.1). Tyres with this RRC stopped being Type Approved in the EU in November 2014. The same will happen in November 2018 to tyres that have a RRC of 'F' (i.e. 10.6 ≤ RRC≤ 12.0) which includes the current ZZS design (according to their tyre label). There are similar regulations changes for Wet Grip, Rolling Resistance Noise and across the different tyre classes (i.e. passenger, goods vehicle etc. where the values for each level A-G are different.) Interestingly, in getting the link for the CR500 tyre label I noticed that the text on the Avon website claims that CR500 tyres are 'F'. Other examples: Toyo T1R = F Toyo R1R = F or G depending on the exact size. Toyo 888 = F or G depending on the exact size. Toyo 888R = F A048 = G

Could be the classic fractured TPS wire issue, although that normally seems to induce hunting that eventually drops the revs low enough to cut out, rather than want you describe. What happens when you unplugged the TPS?

Gearbox drive or Hall sensor on rear wheel?