metal mickey

ECR YHM

Does anyone know the part number or better still a supplier for the pinion oil seal on a 7" sierra diff? Thanks.

Can anyone recommend a good one with decent image quality and easy to use for a tin top. Thanks.

A short length of solder wire or plumbers lead also work well - held where you want it with a blob of grease . Works well for measuring after with a mic.

Could you please explain 'questionable welding'.

Best way to test a door before opening it is with the back of your hand, if it's hot you will feel it and instinctively pull away. DO NOT touch the door handle! Least not until you,have ascertained the temp inside the compartment. After that if you absolutely have to open the door do so from a kneeling on one knee position. If the door opens towards you then kneel behind the door so if it does flash you will be shielded to some extent by the door. If it opens away from you open it for a few seconds and have a quick squint then close it. If there is a developed fire within then forget about it and if possible retreat to a safe distance.

Highly unlikely that you'll get down to 105db with that silencer. It is basically to short and to small on diameter to be that effective.

Can anyone recommend a good supplier? And exactly how wide are std Caterham ones? Thanks.

ECR, thanks. Steve, YHM.

Perfect opportunity to fit a hayabusa.......

Really, when did Ammo tell you that? The packing does burn away from the front because that's where the hottest gases arrive. But we've been telling people to slide the remaining packing forwards from the rear cap and repack the rear with new packing from the start. Or if the packing is heavily carboned to remove it and repack.

Take the packing back out and refit the inlet cap. Remove the exit cap and fit the inner core onto the inlet cap pipe - core goes over the inlet pipe.Repack the silencer whilst holding the inner core centrally at the exit end. The exit cap has a longer pipe so you can easily engage it into the inner core - I build them that way to make re packing easier. I quick phone call or email would have avoided your problems....?

13mm AF? That's a new one. Do you mean 1/2" AF?

Basically straight forward. From memory I think the ends of the cams have a slot in them so you can align them and lock them with a flat bar.set no.1 with timing mark on pulley and fit new belt. The cam pulleys are not keyed to the cams so you can rotate them with the cam locked and the new belt on. Good idea to fit a new tensioner while you are in there.

No experience of the std non repack able one from CC. I have tried wrapped primaries as a direct comparison to unwrapped and the packing material in a repackable silencer suffers higher degradation. In my experience with Raceco silencers the packing burns away from the front, obviously where the hottest gases first reach the silencer. Wrapping the primaries does what it says on the tin and retains the heat within the pipe with the result being hotter exhaust gas reaching the silencer thereby producing the higher degradation rate of the packing material I experienced. Personally I would look to insulate the pedal box and any other items close or susceptible to heat on an individual basis.

You will likely see accelerated degradation of whatever exhaust packing material you use if running at sustained high revs.

M&M have done excellent work polishing a couple of Raceco exhausts.

Bob, YHM.

Bob, if you want the correct material i can supply you with what you need. Do you want to do a complete repack or an interim one?

I've never had any real success with stud extractors, they all work by trying to grab on the inside of a hole and exert even more force onto the seized area. A very good solution are l/h twist drills. Centre punch the centre of the seized bolt and drill a hole straight through with a small drill. Don't hesitate when drilling and try to generate heat without burning the drill tip. Work up in successive sizes and 9 times out of 10 the seized bolt will free off and unscrew.

Great to see the silencer fitted and your cautious approach to fitting it, nicely done. Yes the silencers are larger than standard but lighter and more effective at noise reduction.

I think someone has made a mistake. M10 thread pitch is 1.5mm which approximately converts to 16.7 tpi. 3/8 unc is 16tpi. A bolt head spanner size of 17mm would indicate a 10mm bolt has been used in error and hence seized part way in. Remove another bolt and try a 3/8 unc bolt to check for the correct thread.

During some routine maintainance I had cause to remove the nitron shockers from my car. Three of them didn't feel as though they were working correctly and I could hear a squirting sound as the shockers were compressed and extended. Long story short I sent them to Simon at Meteor Motorsport. During our conversations I said the car was good on track but seriously harsh on the road even when set on fully soft but had been supplied to me new as set up ready for a Hayabusa 7. Simon dyno tested the one good unit and confirmed it to be massively over valved with damping characteristics totally unsuitable for my spring rates. He rebuilt and revalved them and dyno tested all four to confirm they matched my spring rates. I run 140lb rears and 220lb fronts. Refitted to the car I tried them first at the club day at Cadwell. The car felt more compliant, very predictable and with a huge improvement under braking and over curbs. On the road, with the dampers on fully soft it's like driving a different car and is no longer the filling rattler it previously was. All in all a massive improvement. I have no business connection with Meteor Motorsport other than knowing Simon from sprinting days but have been very impressed with his work on the nitrons and the quick and efficient service he provided.

I can't comment on the construction of the later tanks as I've never been in one. The repair needed on your tank may be able to be done by puddle welding the baffle back in place otherwise I'd think taking the end out, re welding the baffle then putting the end back in would be neater than opening the top of the tank.

Rob, it needs welding to repair it properly.