tiddy1

I would still suggest trying with toe in, even if it is just 0.25 deg it makes a fundimental difference to how the wheels react once you get passed the 0 deg point. Think of it like trying to balance a small ball on top of a big one (toe out) the ball wants to fall off 0 deg is like a ball on a flat plate Toe in is like a a ball sitting in the bottom of a bowl, i.e it wants to stay there hope this is not too obscure Simon Edited by - tiddy1 on 21 Aug 2014 12:13:10

I would strongly suggest setting the car up with about 1 deg toe in, it does make a huge difference to the stability and tram lining. its very easy to do yourself, no need for complex measurement set ups, just undo the steering arm lock nut and twist the steering arm a few turns then re-lock. if you note how many turns you do you can always put it back if you do not like it Simon

There is something seriously wrong with your paint, you should be able to slosh petrol over it without any adverse effects. As to the leakage, you should not be able to get the fuel level that high unless you were parked on a serious slope. however there are several areas to check on the filler cap 1. the cap fitting into the funnel, this should have a god o-ring to give a seal 2. the gasket between the outer aluminium part and the inner funnel 3. the big rubber pipe connection to the filler and tank (jublie clips) 4. the breathers on the side of the filler (small pipes) start with those and see if there are any leaks Simon

would be interested in the alternative supply for an upgrade as the caterham ones have been out of stock for a good six months Simon

Totally mad, it costs me less to run my car for a year than it will for you to cover a few scratches that will be back within a week of you driving your car.

to be honest you may as well fill the gap with toilet paper for all the good it will do. Yes it may help prevent a sharp pokey thing from penetrating, but without being properly bonded to the to the outer and inner skins its next to useless

Can any one tell me the cost of a full chassis refurb from Arch, i.e if I deliver them a bare panel less chassis, they blast it, powder coat, re-panel Obviously any repair is extra Do lowered floors cost more? Any suggested upgrades to a 1994 chassis? will they powder coat the suspension parts at the same time How long does it usually take? Now I'm sure this should have been discussed before but I could not find anything through the search. Simon

Be very cearful when measuring/ calculating input shaft length. I measured my duratec engine crank hole depth then measured the gearbox/ belhousing protrusion. Cut the input shaft down to my dimensions and then built the whole lot together. Iit all went together fine until i tried to dis-engage the clutch. I discovered that the hole in the crank is not flat bottomed so I had measured to deepest part of the the hole,(I was using a thin verniercaliper) the gearbox input shaft (which is obviously fatter) was catching on the tapered hole, and so would not dis-engage. It was only about 0.080" too long but obviously ment full engine and gearbox removal... you live and learn

My lower wishbone spherical bearing is pretty knackered and so I was trying to get it out last night but struggling. I assume that once the clip is out its is better to try and make up an extractor (two sockets and a long bolt or something similar) rather than just trying to force it out with a variable impact precussion device (hammer). I don't really want to have to take the wishbone off Also are there any good alternatives to the caterham part at £35?

We are not using the car gearbox , but possibly the drop box as we need the prop to spin in the opposite direction to the engine, if we use the elite reverse gearbox then we can get rid of the drop box. So where can I get a cw and pinion made?

I do like a good discussion.. I am comming to the conclusion that there are three ways to do this: Either change the rear axle, as with the current one I have no diff ratio choices, Or to drive the reverse box from a chain drive off the motorbike gearbox to increase the prop shaft speed or get a new set of drop down gears made for the honda (car ) box to increase the prop speed by approx 40% the problem is the 1.54/1 reduction from the motorbike engine to the motorbike gearbox and a 1.16:1 top gear so at 12000 engine RPM you get a max 6775rpm prop speed the car engine at 10,000 rpm gets a 10900 prop speed (sped up by drop/ reversing box) on the end of the car gearbox (top gear is 1:1 in the box) so I ned to get the prop speed from 6775 to 10900 to achieve the same top speed

Ok after a lot of head scratching and prop shaft twiddling I find that the honda engine spins clockwise viewed from front pully propshaft then spins anticlockwise (viewed from the front) so if we keep the drop down part of the honda geadbox then the blackbird engine will be spinning the right way the proble is the gear ratio, the diff is about 5.7:1 and there are no alternatives, (this is also going to limit us to 140 bhp max) The fireblade primary ratio drops the revs by 1.52:1 and with a 1.19:1 6th gear we are only going to get about 90 mph (hence why caterhams drop from 3.92 diffs to 3.14) as to engine choice the best for us would be a yamaha GSXR 750 as thi is the one we used for the fuel injection mod and so know all the wiring etc

Alan to be honest none of them are actually mine, they all belong to a friend, I just get to play with them and help with the engineering challanges. The coupe is running on throttle body fuel injection taken form a honda motobike, which was an interesting conversion as we are still running the motobike ecu.

Alan we have origional engines in the coupe and convertable but this is a pure mod sport car we want more power for playing, still going to keep it honda engine, and the origional one can just slot back in if needed. Rebuilding a race honda s800 engine can be pricey and the bits are getting rather hard to find.

I have a honda s800 race car and am looking to put a blackbird/ fireblade engine in, in place of teh std honda 800cc engine, now the problem is that the s800 has a drop down gear on the end of the gearbox which reverses the prop shaft direction so you can not justtake the honda box out and stick a nova reverse box in (or similar) unless you could run the nova boz backwards. ie in reverse for car going forward. I assume that the nova box is direct drive for forwards and step down for reverse so would not be happy running in reverse? The diff also runs 'backwards' so there are no different crown wheel and pinions available. anyone with good/ bad experiances with the nova box or similar