Advice on new build please.

[DJ.]

My kit is due to arrive later this month. I've read the guide a couple of times and looked at some build diaries (thanks to those who've posted these ).

 

I have very little space available, and I think it will be easier to get the car moveable before installing the engine. Are there any drawbacks to installing the diff and rear suspension before the engine/gearbox?

 

I know I have to get the prop shaft in before the diff, but assume I can just rest this in the transmission tunnel until the engine goes in. I think I've read that the prop won't go in from the front in an S3, is that correct?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Duncan

[rj]

I think I've read that the prop won't go in from the front in an S3, is that correct?

 

yes!

[Martin J]

Good news Duncan, bet you can't wait

Like you I haven't got the luxury of a double garage so decided to get a rolling chassis built up before fitting the engine & gearbox. No problem just laying the diff in just need to be careful when connecting it to the gearbox so not as to damage the oil seal. A smear of grease & be gentle.

I was also glad to have the extra degree of safety when under the car, ie as well as axle stands I was able to chock up to the wheels with wood.

What spec etc have you gone for? Mine is a humble 125 sigma 50th anniversary & it recently passed it's first mot & 12k miles on it hasn't missed a beat

[MartinH]

Hi Duncan,

I finished builkding my first car this year (an R300 SV) and I did it that way, I.e. Rolling chassis first then engine and box in.

 

I can't see why you couldn't do that with an S3 chassis. You just need to lay the prop in the tunnel before installing the diff then match the prop and diff up after that. Later you can hoist your engine and box in and mate it up to the prop at the same time.

 

Happy to answer any other build questions if I can help (as many others will be!) A laptop in the garage with access to Blatchat is essential :)

 

Good luck with the build. Make sure you report progress here.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

 

 

Duratec R300 SV Build Pics

[DJ.]

Thanks

 

It'll be much easier to be able to move the car as well as the hoist if necessary. To cap it all the roof is low too, so it was going to be tight installing the engine high up on stands.

 

I've ordered the same as you Martin, 125 Roadsport in yellow. Nothing fancy (only options are the composite seats and harnesses), but it should be good fun and quick enough for the 98% road use I'm planning.

 

Nice to hear yours is going well, the only problem with forums is you mostly hear the bad news. I'm already expecting a noisy diff, leaking brake calipers and the clutch release bearing to fail!

[DJ.]

Thanks for the offer MartinH

 

I like the idea of Blatchat in the garage, very reassuring. I'm not sure my daughter would be too keen on copper grease finger prints on her keyboard though 😬

[MartinH]

Mine also running fine after 6 months, one trackday and lots of blatting with the Penn guys. No complaints really. A few problems to solve during the build but that's half the fun. My diff is also fine. A slight whine but nothing like what some people have described. It is an LSD though.

M

 

Duratec R300 SV Build Pics

[Martin J]

I've ordered the same as you Martin, 125 Roadsport in yellow. Nothing fancy (only options are the composite seats and harnesses),

why not a starter button? mine was only £40 fitted. Also don't know how tall you are but the clip on momo wheel does make it much easier getting in & out & provides a bit more security to.

[DJ.]

I can see why the removable wheel makes sense, but I decided I would find carrying around a steering wheel a bit of a pain when out for the day.

 

I've also wondered what happens if the driver leaves it on the car and someone else pinches it?

 

Starter button would've been nice though. I was trying to be strong willed with the options in case I got carried away, and had to tell my wife the car wasn't "under 20K" as I'd promised.

[Martin J]

Starter button would've been nice though

It's not to late to get them to fit one in the dash, just give CC a call

I placed my order & then agonised over the type of roll bar, eventually fitting the FIA bar & bumping up the invoice a little

Side screen arm rests are nice Now I'm just giving you ideas!

[The Pikey]

and a yellow car without a black pack, thats just so so wrong 😬 Oh go on tick all the option boxes, it's cheaper that way!!!

 

We are 'Orible' arn't we.

 

best of luck with the build

 

Jason

 

 

[MBB]

Just about finnishing my build - yellow Roadsport 124 SV

 

Generally anything that the build guide goes into in great detail will go smoothly & simply, its the stuff covered in one line you have to watch out for.

 

Put the rear wings on before you install the boot carpet (luckilly I used carpet tape so the situation is salvageable 😬)

 

If you haven't got one already - get a dremmel, one of the most used tools on my build.

 

Good luck

 

Mark

 

Roadsport 125 SV build started

Photos on flickr

Build Diary

[tbird]

Re removable steering wheel, I bought a half decent security cable (coil type which can be left coiled around roll bar) and padlock, if going shopping etc just remove and cable (pretty much out of site behind driver seat) to roll bar, ok a decent set of cutters would get through it eventual but hopefully someone would notice if parked fairly publicly .

 

Tim

 

CSR 200 Aztec and Black

[Alaskossie]

I went to an auto upholstery shop and had a "purse" made for my removable wheel -- black nylon fabric, circular in shape, with a lining of foam (camping sleeping-bag mat) on the wheel side, and a cut-out tennis ball over the splined hub; Velcro closure and two nylon strap handles. It looks like a small briefcase when I carry it into a shop or restaurant, and attracts no attention at all.......

 

Alaskossie

[BBL]

A few tips I read back in the day here (not mine, but I found many of them useful).

 

Cheers

 

---

Sean

[adz]

hi,

 

Fit your own start button. The dash is easy to drill ali, and the wiring loom already has the connectors for the start switch fitted.

Farnell part 109-282 (£8.94) is what I bought and looks the same as what caterham supply .

I did fit it just for fun, but have found it very useful on track days when I spin and need a quick restart of stalled engine without faffing about with keys.

 

regards

adam

 

[jj48]

Hi DJ - i am based in East Sussex so if you need to borrow an engine hoist or anything else please give me a call. Can deliver hoist if not too far from Uckfield or Crowborough. Mobile no is 07714676422

 

Regards

Richard

 

Sussex Swede R400

[Z3MCJez]

and a yellow car without a black pack, thats just so so wrong

 

Hey

 

😬

 

Jez, yellow sigma 125 without black pack ...

 

Mind you, with:

Starter button

Brake bias

Braided rear brake pipes

Engine breather pipes and reservoir

Diff breather pipe and reservoir

Uprated valve springs

Rear ARB

 

and soon to include:

 

Uprated injectors

Aeroscreen

Widetrack front suspension

[DJ.]

Thanks for all the suggestions

 

The top build tips is very good.

 

I'll leave the wheel I think, but I am tempted to fit my own horn push for less than £9.

 

Thanks for the offer Richard, my brother and I went halves on an engine hoist a couple of years ago, but I've made a note of your number in case. I'm down in Eastbourne, but there's no way I'd expect you to deliver anything to me.

[The Pikey]

even though you don't have the Q.R I think you will find the horn button is on the dash.

 

Jason

[DJ.]

Sorry, I meant the starter button 😳

[Martin J]

For what little extra it costs I would get CC to fit the starter button & sort the wiring.I'm sure you don't need the added stress of drilling into your brand new dash & the wiring is a bit of a fiddle behind In the scheme of things I think it's a no brainer option & makes it that bit more desirable if you ever want to sell.

 

 

Edited by - Martin Jeffrey on 3 Nov 2010 20:58:56

[sevenmad]

I too fitted my own starter button during my 125 build.

Button came from Farnell, its made by ITW code 76-9410/439088R, and is exactly the same as that fitted by cc but half the price (£9 against £18).Link here

Wiring is ready behind the dash with connectors already on, sitting just to left of steering column. Two wires, one red, the other white and red.

Took 10 minutes to drill the dash and connect it up !

 

As for QR go for the Rapfix system, better than the CC offering, written up in last months Low Flying .

 

Edited by - sevenmad on 3 Nov 2010 21:37:02

[DJ.]

Thanks for the link. I remember that article on Rapfix, it looks an elegant design and should wear well.

 

 

[sevenmad]

Glad you liked the article, my first submission to LF