Alaskossie

What is the wisdom about having to reduce the compression ratio on a Caterham Duratec 2.3 R500 (250 nominal hp), in order to install a supecharger? What is the CR of the Caterham 620R? Is it reduced from the R500? I note that TTS offers the Rotrex kit for the 2-liter Duratrec, but not for the 2.3 -- any reason for this?

I removed the filler neck, twisted out the little spting-loaded flap with pliers, and then took a Dremel tool and cut out the internal flange on which the little flap had been mounted, and the related internal materials. Then I had the whole neck powder-coated. Now I can get an entire US-style petrol nozzle into the neck of the filler pipe -- the way things ahould have been from the outset.

I have an "oblong" Momo gear stick knob -- shaped a bit like the handle of a woodworking chisel. It was originally chrome-plated over aluminium, but I had the chrome stripped off, and then I polished the aluminium. Then a friend machined a small round recess in the top, and I epoxied in a Lotus-emblem lapel pin. It looks rather nice, and works well, also.

And you can order the Brise tank with another fitting welded on for an oil pre-heater, for an in-tank heating element that plugs into the mains. I've got both the temp sender and the oil pre-theater in my Brise tank.

Here is a Caterham-specific alternative that I have found to be ideal, from MirrorsforSevens: http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/index.htm It is the "Wink-style" panoramic racing mirror, but on a Seven scale.

Roadracer1977, I don't have a hosted web link, but can send you photos if you send your email address to me at tmeacham@gci.net. Do you want photos of the headlight bowls specifically, or the whole ensemble? Neil66, no luck on the c/f clams yet; I found someone in USA who said he could do it, but haven't taken it any further, like getting a pair of fibregalass clams to use for molds....

That should be "agent," not "gent" -- but I'm sure Fluke are fine gents also.

Isn't Fluke tied into Westermann, or its UK gent, or something similar? The Fluke prices are given in Euros, and "exclude German VAT" I have the Fluke 5.75-inch c/f headlight bowls, and they are top-notch. They coordinate well with my clear-lacquered c/f wings, air cleaner box, dash panel, and cam cover. It's the look that counts.....

Uh-oh -- Mine is a 2007, one of the last left-hand Imperial/Arch chassis models.

7wonders, What was the vintage of your Seven? Has CC upgraded its DS joints since your experience?

I posted an inquiry on BC a year or more ago, and learned from this that there was little interest in c/f clamshells among the POBC.....

I'll just renew my plea (seen on BC before) that someone produce a good set of carbon fiber clams, perhaps proportioned from the start to fit wide-track suspension. I was in correspondence with RIF (before his sad and untimely departure) about this subject, and he told me that he had a set of molds made up to produce c/f clams, but did not have the time at the moment to produce them. Sadly, he just ran out of time.....

Has anyone adapted and fitted one of these to a Series 3 Arch chassis? Also, as an after-assembly item, is there any reason why it could not be divided vertically down the middle, placed in two pieces into the tunnel, riveted in place around the propshaft, and joined top and bottom with pre-made join pieces with bolts and lock-nuts? Slightly heavier, perhaps, but it would obviate the need to disconnect the drivetrain to install.

Sean, I guess I could have done an internet search, but it seemed so much easier at the time to just pop the question onto BC. Thanks!

I was in correspondence last summer with Nick at SBFS about renewing the waterproofing on a SoftBits half-hood; he advised using Granger's Fabric Proofer. I have fortunately located some Granger’s locally. But my question to him as to how it should be properly applied to renew the waterproofing has gone unanswered. Has anyone on BC successfully performed this chore?