Alaskossie
-
Posts
358 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Alaskossie
-
What is the wisdom about having to reduce the compression ratio on a Caterham Duratec 2.3 R500 (250 nominal hp), in order to install a supecharger? What is the CR of the Caterham 620R? Is it reduced from the R500? I note that TTS offers the Rotrex kit for the 2-liter Duratrec, but not for the 2.3 -- any reason for this?
-
I removed the filler neck, twisted out the little spting-loaded flap with pliers, and then took a Dremel tool and cut out the internal flange on which the little flap had been mounted, and the related internal materials. Then I had the whole neck powder-coated. Now I can get an entire US-style petrol nozzle into the neck of the filler pipe -- the way things ahould have been from the outset.
-
I have an "oblong" Momo gear stick knob -- shaped a bit like the handle of a woodworking chisel. It was originally chrome-plated over aluminium, but I had the chrome stripped off, and then I polished the aluminium. Then a friend machined a small round recess in the top, and I epoxied in a Lotus-emblem lapel pin. It looks rather nice, and works well, also.
-
And you can order the Brise tank with another fitting welded on for an oil pre-heater, for an in-tank heating element that plugs into the mains. I've got both the temp sender and the oil pre-theater in my Brise tank.
-
Here is a Caterham-specific alternative that I have found to be ideal, from MirrorsforSevens: http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/index.htm It is the "Wink-style" panoramic racing mirror, but on a Seven scale.
-
Roadracer1977, I don't have a hosted web link, but can send you photos if you send your email address to me at tmeacham@gci.net. Do you want photos of the headlight bowls specifically, or the whole ensemble? Neil66, no luck on the c/f clams yet; I found someone in USA who said he could do it, but haven't taken it any further, like getting a pair of fibregalass clams to use for molds....
-
That should be "agent," not "gent" -- but I'm sure Fluke are fine gents also.
-
Isn't Fluke tied into Westermann, or its UK gent, or something similar? The Fluke prices are given in Euros, and "exclude German VAT" I have the Fluke 5.75-inch c/f headlight bowls, and they are top-notch. They coordinate well with my clear-lacquered c/f wings, air cleaner box, dash panel, and cam cover. It's the look that counts.....
-
Uh-oh -- Mine is a 2007, one of the last left-hand Imperial/Arch chassis models.
-
7wonders, What was the vintage of your Seven? Has CC upgraded its DS joints since your experience?
-
I posted an inquiry on BC a year or more ago, and learned from this that there was little interest in c/f clamshells among the POBC.....
-
I'll just renew my plea (seen on BC before) that someone produce a good set of carbon fiber clams, perhaps proportioned from the start to fit wide-track suspension. I was in correspondence with RIF (before his sad and untimely departure) about this subject, and he told me that he had a set of molds made up to produce c/f clams, but did not have the time at the moment to produce them. Sadly, he just ran out of time.....
-
Has anyone adapted and fitted one of these to a Series 3 Arch chassis? Also, as an after-assembly item, is there any reason why it could not be divided vertically down the middle, placed in two pieces into the tunnel, riveted in place around the propshaft, and joined top and bottom with pre-made join pieces with bolts and lock-nuts? Slightly heavier, perhaps, but it would obviate the need to disconnect the drivetrain to install.
-
Sean, I guess I could have done an internet search, but it seemed so much easier at the time to just pop the question onto BC. Thanks!
-
I was in correspondence last summer with Nick at SBFS about renewing the waterproofing on a SoftBits half-hood; he advised using Granger's Fabric Proofer. I have fortunately located some Granger’s locally. But my question to him as to how it should be properly applied to renew the waterproofing has gone unanswered. Has anyone on BC successfully performed this chore?
-
To clarify, the new mounting hole was "higher" on the shifter mounting flange, resulting in a "lower" position of the shifter on the tunnel.
-
Sorry to semi-hijack this thread, but when I assembled my 2007 S3, I found that the position of the handbrake handle in its released, lowermost "off" position was still high enough above the tunnel that it interfered with easy movement of the gearbox shifter. So after living with this problem for too long, I disassembled the tunnel cover, removed the entire CC shifter lever, and drilled a new, lower mounting hole in the vertical steel mounting flange by which the shifter mechanism bolts to the twin tabs on the tunnel frame. Ah, bliss.... Anyone else made this ergonomic mod?
-
If you are running a full windscreen,. here is what I've found to be the best rear-vlew solution: http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/index.htm
-
What doe the CC assembly manual say about the correct way to orient the heater vent panel in the cockpit? (Can't find my manual at the moment). I've checked my heater vent panel, and it is installed with the "ears" pointing up, and not down at the footwells. My '07 S3 was assembled in 2007-10 mostly by me, but with the critical engine installation, under-dash work, and fettling by a former CC engineer. Can't believe he would not have caught my upside-down heater panel, if the "ears" were really intended to direct some heat to the footwells.
-
Chris Tchorznicki at Seven & Elans in Ayer, Massachusetts USA makes an aluminium adaptor plate to mount the Spa mirror mounts on the Caterham stanchions, using existing holes. http://www.sevenselans.com/partsforsale.htm It works a treat. Add a couple of Belleville washers to keep the mirror arm and head from swivelling too easily, and you have a fine setup.
-
Sean, Very sorry to hear of your difficulties. You and I have nearly-identical engines. As you may recall, my Cosworth-supplied ECU allowed the car to run fairly well with the original, default settings (sharp bucking at off-throttle at low speeds, severe flatness above 9000 ft. altitude -- no problem where I live now). But Nathan Down in Boulder was unable to get the link to work so that he could read and adjust the mapping on his laptop. Since I am several thousand miles from Nathan or any other person with Seven mapping experience , I am just crossing my fingers and soldiering on. If the engine ever goes duff, I'll probably just have to try to sell the car.
-
I recently found similar cracks on the sidewalls of my 15-inch CR500’s on the rear only (245/40 R15); no cracks on the front (195/45/ R15). I have 8500 road miles on the tires; no track miles. I bought the fronts tires from CC in 2007 with my S3 kit, which was not completely assembled until 2010. I bought the larger rear tires in 2009. None of the tires hit the road until 2010. I suppose any warranty claim to Avon at this point would be out of time…. Has Avon categorically stated that these cracks are not a safety issue? If so, I will stop worrying about them. If not…….
-
I had Millwood's chap make me a sert with the c/f weave running perpendicular, rather than diagonal, to more closely match the weave on my CC c/f rear wings. It's now close, but still not quite the same. Also, I had the left-side stone guard madethe same length as the right, to hide the vestigial notch in the left wing for the non-existent rear exhaust pipe. Somewhat pricey, and I unfortunately I haven't got them installed yet. Presently have the standard Millwood c/f stone guards, pretty pockmarked up now. I use small black oxide socket-head dome nuts, washers on the backside, and nylock nuts to fasten them on.
-
Pendennis, Couldn't be any more counterproductive than the very limited flow area of a Pipercross filter sausage fitted inside the CC airbox. Are you saying that the individual Pipercross filter socks are not suitable for the purpose for which they were apparently designed? If you are, then what is their purpose?
-
Shaun_E, I used this airbox on my Duratec 2.3. However, if you fit the Pipercross "sausage" air filter before attaching this airbox, it appears that the Pipercross fills up so much of the interior space in the airbox, and so tightly, that there is little room for air to enter the Pipercross filter. So I fitted individual Pipercross filter "socks" on the trumpets, and then installed the airbox. Seems to work fine.
