adz

Taken from 2011 roadsport during intake upgrade. fully working before removal, Air filter about 2 years old. postage at cost or collect from lincoln. £200 ono

Taken from 2011 roadsport , good condition. postage at cost or collect from lincoln £200

I prefer the 'feel' of 6+6 - the car seems a bit more communicative and I have the confidence to press on. thats on track with 220bhp, on the road I cant tell much difference. . I went to 6+8 as the 13" *6 looked lost in the rear arch. I wouldnt say theres any more grip from 8" rears - if you keep the tyre pressures the same, then the contact patch will be the same, just a slightly different shape.

Is it easy DIY - I'd say yes having done mine earlier this year after one started leaking. Seal kit is ~£20 and includes new bleed screws. Dont need any special tools- just try and pump the pistons as far out as you can ( not all the way out- just enough to get a decent grip on to pull the pistons out - they need a good tug )whilst brakes are still attached to car- or use an air compressor.

I think they are M8

Hi, swapping gearbox on my duratec I took the clutch cover off to measure clutch plate (AP 5352) wear, but the build manual doesnt mention the torque for these bolts. Anybody know what they should be? thanks

I had to replace 2 of the original BMW diff cages. 2011 car. since I got the upgraded back plate version its been fine. took the diff out to do it. I dont know if there is enough movement on the half shafts to let you do it in situ. Adam

click this just pasted ​ usiong link

Another vote for talking to simon, or at least someone who knows 7 suspension. I had harder springs put on the front of mine by a suspension expert. It did make it tighter on track, but it was skittish and harsh on the road. Also i ended up removing the front anti-roll bar completely as it was just understeering too much with the stiff springs. I have changed to slightly harder than normal spring , with adjustable dampers. the car is far more compliant on the road and can now fide potholes without it feeling like the end of the world. If you firm the damping up, the car feels really taught on track - much firmer than with the stiff springs/normal damper. Adam

Yes, I bought some rear wings from them last year. They are lighter weight than the caterham ones, or more flimsy, depending on your viewpoint. The Flange that rests against the body is not perpendicular to the wing, so it doesn't rest flat against the body. It's also not deep enough so you cant drill some of the mounting holes- theres no fibreglass to drill them in. You have to drill your own mounting holes, but I was expecting that. I fitted one, but it was a right pain and I'm not happy with how few fasteners I could use. Am about to buy caterham ones to replace it. I still have the drivers rear wing unused, you are welcome to it if you want.

I had a speedo that stopped reading if I went over 60ish. was erratic when I indicated and dropped to 0 when I touched the brake pedal. Turned out to be rear lights earth. 2 black ring crimps bolted to the front 3way brake pipe union. unbolted ,cleaned, bolted back up tight, sorted. This obviously needs to be a very good earth, the lights themselves were not dim or behaving erraticaly ( like you see on dodgy trailers ) and the connectors were not corroded, my multimeter was giving a reading of under 0.1 ohm This may not be the cure for your woes, but its an easy thing to try. adam

Hi, I had a go at fitting stripes, I found it quite straightforward, you spay water/detergent onto the panel which allows the stripes to slip around till you are happy with location, then squeegee the water out. 3 years on they are still stuck well. just got some off ebay with the 'CATERHAM' lettering to go on the sides. cheers adam

Apparently I need a new gearbox and propshaft , I didn't think there was that much damage, but if CC are doing it then .... So this is turning into an expensive and time consuming repair, all for the sake of a couple of washers. adam

Well, I have to say hats off to CC for service. I told them about my oil seal woes, expecting at best to recieve a replacement seal ( self build car, out of warranty) The next day a van turns up to take the car away so that CC can replace the seal then deliver the car back again. So hurrah! Adam

James is currently out the office, I know because I tried to phone him yesterday. ( because his email inbox is full ) When my diff carrier failed it has allowed the propshaft to move forwards. My propshaft has been grinding on the tailpiece of the gearbox. The oil seal is now bust and I'm losing oil at a rate of knots from the gearbox tail. so it looks like diff out again to get to the oil seal. BUT, one of the threaded bosses on my carrier wasn't welded on straight and the bolt cross threaded when I bolted the carrier in. It''s torqued up, but I dont know how many times it's safe to keep bolting and unbolting it before the thread gives up. Joy joy joy. Adam

half an hour? how on earth do you swap a diff in half an hour? 2 hours of very creative swearing and hammering and the new carrier is in, just got to fasten everything else back on. Alan, I was not offered a new dedion, but the dints are not deep and i was just going to paint it to stop rust and keep an eye on it. pmobbs, carrier is exactly the same length as old one, the countersunk bolts mean you lose 11mm of bolt head sticking out the back. my dedion dents are 10mm forward of the brake pipe, so I dont see how the brake pipes are getting dented, BUT I'm s3, adjustable dampers, watts link- so other arrangements may be different. must get back to spannering. adam

Alan, standard roadsport 175, BUT, I was in the middle of a sprint/drift day when it failed, so I have a theory. The diff carrier is adequate to the job, but if a bolt falls out , the diff can twist around and split the carrier. So it's all down to how hard you are using the car when the bolt falls out. I'd probably done hundreds of road miles with a bolt missing without a problem. I checked the bolts thoroughly before last weekend, but 20 odd miles of drift/sprint were enough to lose a bolt and split the carrier. Told james about it last monday, replacement carrier arrived yesterday. adam

got the 'new' diff carrier yesterday. It's the same as the old one , but with a bit more welding in places and the 2 rear bolts are now countersunk allen bolts. The side bolts ( the ones that fall out) now have Nordlock washers. I'm not going to manage the half hour replacement time as it took me an hour and a half to get the diff out, but hopefully in by elevenses. adam

heres some photos of the cracks bmw diff carrier fail as an addendum, if you need to remove the bmw diff, you dont need to remove the watts link. after looking at other posts I took out the ARB, A frame and unbolted passanger hub from dedion ( to remove passanger drive shaft), then lowered diff with the aid of an engine hoist. Adam

photos diff carrier fail

Greetings, This is just an advisory. At the weekend the carrier on my BMW diff failed, as in the metal broke in 2 places. Checking some other posts on the academy website and it appears this has happened to a few other folks, but mine may be the first road car that has failed. Caterham are going to send me a new version replacement carrier, which has been beefed up. My roadsport was delivered april 2011 and so I had a fairly early version diff carrier. When I took the car for its 1st annual service one of the bolts securing the diff into the carrier had fallen out. It was replaced. A couple of weeks later it was loose again. So, check the torque of all the bolts on the diff assembly, especiallly the ones holding the diff to the carrier. Have a look at the carrier for cracks. Check the dedion tube is not banging against the bolt heads that stick out the back of the carrier- you'll see marks on the tube if it is. Cheers adam

these are a set of tyres/wheels that I'm just using for airfields, not on road. What I want to know is can I abuse them till they burst?, or will that cause damage to the car. If bursting is a problem is it OK to run till I see the canvas, given that I'm only doing ~15 minutes at a time? Thankyou for all your replies adam

After a amusing morning drifting on an airfield I now have a couple of tyres that look like slicks - no tread left at all. Now, could I safely have run these any more? , and if so how do I tell when they are about to fail? I had the airfield booked all day, and I'd like to know for next time if theres much life in a bald tyre or am I going to have to take a couple of sets of wheels. The tyres had 7mm of tread at the start of the day. cheers adam

now reduced to £300