CageyH Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Just got back from a blat, and it has been about 36 to 38 degrees outside. Any thoughts on hopw to get cool air into a 7 interior without butchering the lines of the car? If not, it may have to go to make way for an Elise/Exige with air con, as it is just not pleasant in these temperatures! Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADMALC Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 The best wat to stay cool in a 7? Wear shades *smokin* *smokin* S7MAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 How about a water cooled Shirt ? here Jon ----------------------------------- She is back in my garage, ready for a re-build. 1992 LA, Xflow, Ford axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBaker Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Remove the doors. Or with the doors on at low speeds you can put the arm rest outside the car which gives an extra bit of airflow through the cockpit. does not work on the same side as the exhaust. The aircon on an Elise/Exige won't work after a short time anyway and you will be even hotter and annoyed that something is broken. 2003 Roadsport SV 1.6K 5 speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racingshoe Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 drive faster Rik Robarts - the future's bright, the future's orange here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatter Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Would a half hood work? It'll keep the sun off and prolley allow for a bit more air flow through the cockpit? Freestyle Duratec Caterham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogW Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 HERE Ever helpful... Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigmamark Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 The aircon on my Elise stopped working and cost me over a grand to get fixed. Mind you, the engine on my Caterham stopped working and that cost me four grand to fix. Have you tried taping some ducting to the screen stanchions and directing to an area which needs cooling? Edited by - Sigmamark on 15 Aug 2009 21:51:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 If you ask very kindly at McDonalds they'll give you a black litter bag full of ice cubes. I trust that would be able to make you stay cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IKB Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Come gack to the UK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 I said cool, not wet! 😳 Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 and the solution is: a water squirter bottle for wetting the sides of the transmission tunnel, floor and as it gets hotter, yourself. plus optionally a half hood to keep the sun off (reducing sunburn) Apparently it is the process of evaporation that creates such a massive drop in temperature, of course everything dries very quickly so frequent dampening is required. The instant relief from heat is amazing. I considered the water cooled gear used by bikers, but the the wetting the cockpit idea was so simple and effective. I believe they used similar on the USA 2005 trip, I seem to recall they even had a selected item for the job, but any household plant watering squirter will do the job, for a few pence. Also, Uncle Fester has some interesting water coolers attached to his roll bar if he is around to explain, not that the water needs to be cool. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I don't think you are going to stay cool, unless you can keep the speed up. It's why you see soft-tops in the heat of the day with the roof up - nice sealed environment for the air-con to work. For our short (week or two) trips into proper summer temps, I do have a small oscillating fan that clips to the two centre tonneau fasteners on the scuttle top - just stirs the air up enough to make you feel slightly cooler, especially when sat in traffic. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IKB Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 How do the F1 guys manage in Dubai etc wearing longjohns, nomex overalls etc.......do you remember how cool Schuie looked when he stepped out after a couple of hours blatting? Perhaps it is something to do with rear engine mounting 😬 Edited by - brunel on 16 Aug 2009 10:28:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted August 16, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted August 16, 2009 As above. take the doors off. and put your Seven Accessories/Niftybits mirrors on. This would probably work well with a half hood too. Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLR69 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Just come back from two weeks in Carcasonne just down the road from you in Toulouse and most days the temperature was in the mid-30's. I think I counted the number of convertibles on one hand in two weeks simply as it is too hot so people don't buy them. When it is this hot I must admit that I use my half hood as a sun shade and it seems to work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I have seen a guy near Paris with an interesting modification to a normal side door. Imagine a forward facing air scoop fitted to the lower flap. Again not really good when stuck in traffic. The modification I saw was the full 90 deg think like this here the advantage being you could turn it off by facing it backwards. Alternatively this is here is a bit more streamlined. I suggest a boat scrap yard for sourcing. 1700ss BRG/Yellow Stripe the only way to cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 if you use the boat technology, thouse ducts have blank plugs so the duct can be removed and plugged - I use them on my boat. Car alterntive is NACA ducts http://www.stockcarscience.com/scienceTopics/scsAerodynamics_NACADuct.php http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=RGMAC12 can't just find a decent picture - you will know it when you see it sort of thing. The Demon tweeks link shows one, but not as deep as I had in mind. I considered these but never followed up because it means making a hole in my car and I am not confident with that idea. Proper NACA ducts would probably look pretty good; in carbon of course. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Check the heater valve is not poorly adjusted in partially open state. It took most of my first Summer to spot this one. I had read so much about hot footwells I had thought it was normal. I think plenty of others have had the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 that's a VERY good point, only last Friday Fredy Kumschik (Swiss CC Agent) pointed out mine was open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I'd favour taking a sabbatical to Dubai for a year, then when you come return everywhere should seem cooler 😬 On an only slighty more serious note, I've lined my pedal box/transmission tunnel with adhesive gold heat reflector which I'm hoping should prevent the panels themselves from warming up. It doesn't address the issue of warm air being forced from the engine bay, down the transmission tunnel and over the diff though. I've not measured it, but I would suppose there's a small amount of negative pressure in the tunnel area which helps to evacuate the warm air, rather than much positive pressure forcing it out. I was considering giving John Howe's idea a try if it became necessary, which (if it works) would be neat and practical; it's effectively a square 'periscope' with a collecting duct at the back of the transmission tunnel, over the prop, rising up against the rear bulkhead between the seats and exiting just over the top bulkhead rail. This additional negative pressure might help provide an escape route for the air in the tunnel. Like many other suggestions, it only works at speed. I suppose if you still have the heater space, an interesting project could be to cannibalise a CC heater to remove the matrix and use a fan to suck in some 'outside' air from a duct and dump it into the cabin. With the Emerald K3 and a user-defined output pin you could even get it to switch on or off automatically based on air temperature (already measured by the ECU) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 08:16:55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 B&Q garden spray full of water like Anthonym said Though I only used it on myself - my transmission tunnel has carpet and that's quite an efficient insulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Darren does the gold stuff go on the inside or outside? or not important? Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Hi Anthony, it needs to be facing the heat source, so you stick it on the 'inside' of the tunnel panels and footwell: picture I can't vouch for it's effectiveness over the more traditional adhesive heatshield cloth yet, but it's the approach McLaren used on the F1 because gold is the best reflector and the stuff is used in Nascar so it must be fairly effective. I can't remember where I bought it now - it was about a year ago. It wasn't that cheap but if it works well, It should be worth it. Edited to add: here it is and here Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 09:55:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 is it possible to fit with the engine and gearbox in situ? I wish I had thought about this last month when the engine was out. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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