RogW

***SOLD*** Caterham, A5 ring bound service manual - dating back to the early 1990's. Covers Ford; Vauxhall and K Series. Ok condition - been sat in the garage so has a bit of aging! Weber Workshop manual - complete with a few oily finger prints. £15 for both + £3 postage

Title says it all really! Anyone got a nice condition one they would like to move on? Thanks! Rog

Happy to be the other 1/3 if that helps. Rog

Dont do bare ali. No No NO. Been there - doing / done that. Just NO.

I also have an MGC GT (mind is a manual) - she will be 50 years old in December. Modern tyres and some decent shocks make a MASSIVE difference to the cars. Lovely lazy torque - they keep up with modern traffic VERY well. Good thing is that most parts are fully available. I added electric power steers to mine - which makes it very easy to drive. The straight six makes a lovely noise. While they are no where near a 7 in performance - they are great touring cars. They are a nice route in to classic car ownership - interesting but without being crazy money. Good luck with the sale - the car looks great! R

£107 from me.

Nice red critter with clams spotted in the carpark by the station on Loches (Loire). We were the black BMW with a couple of bikes on the back, parked opposite :) Lovey area to wander around in a 7! :)

I had mine recovered by ITG a few months back - great folk to deal with. Took about 10 days was about £90 I recall. Saves fannying around with sourcing another one to fit. sales@itgairfilters.com Type is LKP100700 They are just down teh road from me - so it was v simple! Rog

A follow on question on this - I now have the bits to make up a new lead. (Brands Hatch Performance were fantastic with delivery - excellent service) Can anyone tell me on the crank sensor itself - which output is which? (ie which colour on the Caterham loom connects to which pin). Currently it has one black and one white lead coming out of the connector plug, which is then connected to another plug and lead on which the wires are red and blue! So at the mo its 50/50 on getting it right! If I get it wrong - is there any dramatic consequence if I turn the ignition etc on and spinning it up on the starter (apart from it probably not actually starting). Would the wonky way round wiring effect anything else? Or would it simply not start. Rog http://bladecomms.com/samples/Crank.jpg http://bladecomms.com/samples/Crank.jpg

Have just stumped the £'s for an Emerald and looked at fitting it, which should be a straight fit (EU2 spec car). However, it seems, a prior owner to me, has put in place a fly-lead for the crank sensor (is going to a non-standard ECU currently). rather than going trough the standard loom. By the looks of it I can 'just' get at the previous wire in the main loom - they were cut off v close to the main loom shielding. Question is - is it better to stick to the existing external option and somehow wire it in to the Emerald unit (probably via an extension loom lead) or link back to the previous, original wiring? Research seems to point at the Crank Sensor lead needing to be shielded. Any thoughts? I am not breaking new ground - just wondering what folk have done previously. Thanks in advance Rog

Current ECU on the K series SLR is a Motec M4. It is mapped for the track rather than the road - it gives good top end power - but low down it is way over fueled and as such has no 'crispness' to it. It fails emissions massively. (Readings from the MOT place were - at tick over Co is 3.8; h/c 631; lambda .92 - at 2k Co is 6.7; h/c 1500; Lambda .750 - Co at 3k is 6.0; h/c 600; lambda .8) I have now obtained a laptop and can access the ECU. and look at the tables. Now I know I can just take it some where to get sorted - but I would like to learn a bit first. I have installed the Emerald software and found and have a specific VHPD map - and they do differ substantially. Question is can I take that data and put in to to the Motec (specifically the fuel and ignition tables - it would be a long hand type in I know). Below are captures from the Motec and Emerald - so you can see some data. The Motec is in kPa I gather. Motec fuel: http://www.bladecomms.com/ecu/Motec_Fuel.JPG Motec Ign: http://www.bladecomms.com/ecu/Motec_Ign.JPG Emerald fuel: http://www.bladecomms.com/ecu/Emerald_Injection.JPG Emerald Ign: http://www.bladecomms.com/ecu/Emerald_Ignition.JPG I am maybe being daft even looking - I know! But I find it interesting and a little fiddle may be fun! Rog

Hi - sorry - this is now SOLD. Will amend the title.

For sale - 1 x Apple iPad 3 64gb capacity. WiFi only (Just link it to your phone via a bluetooth HotSpot if you need to if you are out and about). It has had a cover on all its life (Apple black leather front - which is now rather dog eared. Back has had a clear flexi cover - which is now yellowing). The iPad has not been removed from these from the day it was bought. Complete with original charger and lead. Can post at cost (item in Leamington Spa) £155

Posted in Wanted as well. Am after a K6 unit to install in an K SLR. Thanks SLR61

Just on the off chance - does anyone have a Emerald K6 sitting in their garage wanting a home . . . I am after one to install. Thanks SLR61

Need to get a pair of tillets collected from Redhill and moved onwards to Leamington Spa - or close to . . . Rog

Hi Can I take the SBFS straps and the Brise starter please. Regards Roger

Got a K series with the Caterham tower dry sump tank. Its a pain to change the oil. I believe some one made some base drain plates with a sump plug in ages ago. Has anyone got the spec detail that were used? Alternatively has anyone got one lurking they would consider selling? Thanks Rog

Hi Here are close ups of the 1, 2, 3 items plus the 'empty' plug 1 I believe is this http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1096 ((tube goes over to the top of the Rover Throttle bodies) http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2094.jpg 2 Don't think its the Am - that is next to it but not linked http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2095.jpg 3 This is the sensor near the clutch, under the T/Bs http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2202.jpg This is the spare plug, with nothing attached in the top part of the original wiring. http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2096.jpg Its all pretty gungy I know - whole engine bay is like that when I bought it in September - slowly cleaning it up. Am in Leamington Spa. I am sure its all logical - but I have never had fuel injection before! (Carbs are so nice! Just putting a triple set on my MGC!) Regards R

I am not 100% sure its quite that simple sadly! The loom that goes from the Motec back to the big red plug, has several other leads coming from it. Marked them on the pic. No 1 - just goes in to the loom bit to the Motec. No idea where it 'normally' goes. No 1 - same as above No 3 goes to a sensor down near the clutch (looks like there are 2 spare wires sticking out of the existing loom near there - so maybe they were cut? There is also a small plug spare in the middle of the rats nest that has nothing attached to it. http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2092B.jpg Thanks for the help - soz for teh numpty questions! Rog

Thanks Oily - but I would not have the faintest clue where to start with grafting bit on! To be honest the car, which I bought last September, its a bit of a rats nest wires wise. http://bladecomms.com/samples/IMG_2092.jpg R

Sadly and unfortunately its not quite as simple as that . . . Car has an expensive ECU in place - which is I am told a basically race unit - ie. it will never be road legal with emissions without spending £££s on it to add lambda ability etc (on a unit that is 13 plus years old). So I need to find a cost effective way of sorting it. As for a favored mapper - am starting from zero here - hence the post. I think Emerald is the way to go - but do I need a complete new loom etc etc to fit it. R

No one?

Would anyone be willing to offer some advice/direction on ECUs for a K series Superlight R? Seems I may be need to change to possibly an Emerald type unit. I have a load of (probably) numpty questions . . . Thanks Rog

I have one of these fitted to the K series SuperLight R I bought last September. Its MOT time coming up soon and I had it checked to see where the emissions stand - and its way out. Any one got any pointers as to who to go to, as its not exactly a run of the mill item. Thanks Rog