Racingshoe

I have a 4 into 1 race primary & collector system from a K. The VHPD silencer was sold a while ago but the primaries and collectors are still available. They even have heat-wrap still on them. BM me if you're interested. Rik

I'm in the Bull offices in Hemel today and there's a nice blue SV parked downstairs.

Thanks for this - i'm about to tackle the same job as Mankee, albeit with an Emerald made new loom for my Duratec swap. Looking to remove my EU2 MFRU in the process.

Any tips on the fitment of the hydraulic clutch stuff? I need to fit all the gubbins soon on my k-to-duratec conversion.

Hi Paul, I'll take this please. Can't blatmail you on here yet I don't think, but you can pm me on rik dot robarts at mac dot com.

I have one. Where are you located Ian? Can't see that bit of info on here...

this stumped me for a week or so as I contemplated my k to duratec conversion. I just ordered a fuel rail from Raceline with an inlet and outlet, plus a weber FPR to sit next to it. I can then use the same feed & return fuel lines that were originally fitted to my k-series car.

It could be one of your sensors is faulty. Try unplugging the lead on the air temp sensor or coolant sensor (ECU one, not the gauge one) and see if the running improves.

Hi Daz, i'll take the silencer off your hands. I may be able to collect. Rik

Nilfisk They use Bosch fittings for hoses & accessories. Buy the snow-foam goodies and (2x) big buckets from Ultimate Finish here I use their own snow-foam mix, but then Dodo-Juice 'born to be mild' shampoo. It helps if you've got a good wax on there first....... you can spend waaay too much time on detailing 😬 Edited by - Racingshoe on 17 Mar 2014 08:47:29

Thanks chaps. that helps.

What spec camshafts are in my Duratec 175 engine? Are they Kent DTEC-10? I am trying to get a base Emerald map for my engine swap, so need to tell Karl what i've got in there.

I have 2 DITP carbon front wings. Unpainted & undrilled. Never fitted. They're not perfect, but certainly look great.

Thanks Sean. £17.40 for that?!?!?!?!?!

I'm about to install my new Duratec engine, and will have to replace the cable operated clutch with the hydraulic duratec version. I understand the parts for the master cylinder & CRB assembly, but what parts do I need for the clutch pedal itself to be able to operate the master cylinder? Is the pedal the same, is there a new adaptor at the top? Admittedly, i'm nowhere near the car at the moment so can't refer to anything, but I am a bit puzzled as to how this will be built.

Misfire under part throttle that goes away under load? Mine turned out to be caused by bad wiring from the TPS to the ECU. I put a bypass wire in and it cured the problem instantly.

Am currently doing exactly the same conversion as you. I can't comment on the pistons question, but can on the bellhousings. The compact bellhousing allows the engine to be situated a bit further back in the chassis than the standard bellhousing. It also requires a smaller flywheel and more compact clutch than normal i believe, but as both will have to be bought new anyway that shouldn't be an issue. In order to make the compact bellhousing fit on an S3 you need the shortened passenger footwell. If not already shortened, you can do this yourself. The gearbox input shaft will also need replacing with a shorter version. Road&Race in the UK will do this, but not sure who would do it for you in the US. I'm aiming for 260hp and hear that the Jenvey throttle bodies are more than adequate. Having had them on my K-series I see no issues in having the Duratec versions. Hope that helps.

I have an E250 CID with the 7Gtronic auto. It's jerky from 1st to 2nd when cold, but fine once warm. If your dad's is noticeably rough then he should get it looked at.

I'm going from K to Duratec this winter. My engine loom is knackered so i'm ditching it and taking the chance to install a new one. As I already have an Emerald, I'm going to use one of their own. Take a look at their site here

4 x genuine Minilite 13x6 wheels with 205x60x13 Firestone tyres. Used on my father-in-law's 1969 Marcos GT for a sprint meeting and then stored in the garage since. Car is now sold, so they are surplus to requirements. Have covered a maximum of 60 miles and are unmarked. Includes the Minilite centre caps. Collection from Bristol, or I can deliver within a reasonable distance. Photos on the pistonheads advert here

I am taking some bits off a fairly new Roadsport 175 engine soon. Will have flywheel, sump (raceline), starter motor, oil cooler takeoff, fuel rail, injectors, cast plenum, throttle body for plenum, K&N filter, cams, valve springs, and MBE ECU. Any of that lot of interest?

@Mankee - good question & one that I should know the answer to. I believe they are 45mm, but I will let you know when I take them off the head at the weekend.

Thanks for the responses so far. I'm working away from home this week, but intend to take the engine out of the 7 this weekend, so parts should be available for shipping/delivery/collection next week I'll be in touch over the weekend to sort out payment & delivery with you all. Enjoy the upgrades 😬

I've left the 7 alone for 3 years since my car was fully rebuilt, but now the next round of upgradeitus has bitten and I'm going Duratec. My 200bhp DVA k-series engine is for sale. It has done 4500 miles since being assembled by DVA, and I've enjoyed using it ever since. However I feel the need for another 40-50hp in my life and have sourced the base of my next engine already. I figured I would get more cash for the engine if I split it, so here goes... The engine has been utterly reliable & the bits advertised are all in great working order. The dry sump pump was serviced by Titan about 3000 miles ago, and the dry sump pan was replaced with a new one 800 miles ago as my old one had a little weep. The head is a proper MS2 VHPD jobbie - and was new when the engine was built to this spec 4500 miles ago. Absolutely no issues with this engine. No head-gasket issues or overheating, even in 35+ degree heat this summer in Switzerland/Italy. I've run it with a big triple-core race radiator and it has been a pussycat. 1800k forged pistons, vhpd rods, uprated liners 450 Sold to Steve Cragg QED lightweight flywheel 230 Sold to LesG AP clutch & pressure plate - 4500 miles 150 MS2 VHPD head fully complete, Piper 285 cams, piper verniers, DVA assembled, all timed. Std VHPD size valves. Never skimmed. No HGF leaks. Perfect. 1300 Sold to Jerry Jenvery DTH throttle bodies, trumpets. With throttle cable. Incl cream injectors. No fuel rail. 400 Bernard Scouse airbox & K&N filter cone filter to suit (later model, wider neck airbox. 190 Sold to Steve Cragg CC bellousing dry sump system, Gold pump, new sump pan 3 months ago. Clutch fork & hoses included. Serviced by Titan 3000m ago. 850 Sold to SUPERLIGHT91 Red coolant silicone hoses (for dry sump installation) 60 Sold to SUPERLIGHT91 4-1 race exhaust primaries (heat wrapped) & collector. No lambda boss (race & EU2) 400 SLR silencer can 150 MAP sensor provided by Emerald 50 starter motor 50 EU2 alternator 70 Lightweight Hellier Motorsport billet belt pulley for dry sump/alternator. Reduces gearing for alternator. Gold !! 100 Sold to SUPERLIGHT91 P&P at additional cost. Collection, reasonable delivery or GONADS can be arranged. Edited by - racingshoe on 29 Oct 2013 13:30:31 Edited by - racingshoe on 30 Oct 2013 09:04:11

I also use the Stack 0-7 bar mechanical gauge. It is a brilliant upgrade over the electrical gauges and provides real comfort in knowing exactly what pressure you do have. Be careful with the nylon tubing supplied as it can kink very easily. I used it for a while with no problems, but upgraded to braided hose (which Merlin can make up for you) when I last had my engine out.