jonboylaw

Quoting Ian Hayward: I used a set of Sealey ‘Motorcycle coil spring compressors’ (model VS1824) when doing this recently, link here You can get them off EBay for under £35. They have small hooks with plastic spring protectors and fit well with out scratching the damper body. Although I had to make a wooden frame to stop them from slipping around the spring under tension when removing the rears. Ian Edited by - Ian Hayward on 11 Jun 2012 11:11:41 I use these as well.

Another recommendation fore Northampton Motorsports, or try Matt at Eurocarb, they can do ultrasonic cleaning etc...

I don't suppose you have picked up any gravel did you ?

If your laptop has a serial port then you should be fine and dandy. If you need to use a USB to serial then you will need to read up on the correct one to get. I was lucky with mine, worked 1st time once I had set the COM port correctly. Top fella is Brent.

Why not mail Brent P at autosportlabs and ask if he has a copy, else post up on the user forum there. Earliest version I have is 3.x

Yes, it is possible but you will need to remove the front bush mount for the bottom wishbone. This was modified to be a captive bush and bolt in later WBs. There is a kit to convert the top link to wishbone that you will need to use for anchoring the front of the new top wishbone. If you are running vertical links with trunnions, then you will need to buy new ones that are trunnionless to fit the later bottom WT wishbones. Canely Classics were cheapest when I did this here.

Or try welding a small bolt to the tap stud and winding it out.

As Pugwash says, go and ask your local council if they have any lock-ups available. Mine is <£30 a month and keeps the car nice and dry.

http://www.kevinsbusrail.com/pwt/diversified_1443.jpg

Live axle cage has a flat rear mounting plate that bolts to the top of the turret. I believe the dedion one protrudes down into the turret. I am sure you could modify either to get them working.

Ha ha, I remember sitting in my Electrical Field exams watching everyone doing the 3 finger spread.. I think it goes as follows: ThuMb is Motion First finger is Field SeCond finger is Current.

Check the balance between the carbs first before trying to adjust any mixture screws.

This one may help a little if you can zoom in a bit. here http://thumb0.webshots.net/t/96/96/8/60/29/2197860290103159900YBMDBt_th.jpg

Northampton Motorsport

Use a digital camera and take lots of pictures... I mean lots.. of all the bolts, washer locations etc. Wiring connectors and pipe routing etc. Freezer bags and a sharpie pen to label everything and some stacking storage boxes to keep it in, with contents lists on them. You will also need some nitrile gloves (a couple of boxes), old paint brushes and lots of white spirit (for de greasing and general gunk removal, plus some tubs to put things in as you clean them. I replaced all the high tensile bolts so make a list of the ones required and get them before you start. Engine hopist and stand are really useful as well as good work lights. They are very simple to strip and re-build so long as you are methodical and keep all bits together. Stripping will take about 3 weekends. Re conditioning and cleaning parts... depends on what you want to do but can be a while! Re-build is around 4 weeks of evenings and weekends, but that depends on your skill level and if you have other demands on your time. My strip down: here Edit for spelling and bad link. Jon Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:57:36 Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:58:42