jonboylaw

Quoting Ian Hayward: I used a set of Sealey ‘Motorcycle coil spring compressors’ (model VS1824) when doing this recently, link here You can get them off EBay for under £35. They have small hooks with plastic spring protectors and fit well with out scratching the damper body. Although I had to make a wooden frame to stop them from slipping around the spring under tension when removing the rears. Ian Edited by - Ian Hayward on 11 Jun 2012 11:11:41 I use these as well.

Another recommendation fore Northampton Motorsports, or try Matt at Eurocarb, they can do ultrasonic cleaning etc...

I don't suppose you have picked up any gravel did you ?

If your laptop has a serial port then you should be fine and dandy. If you need to use a USB to serial then you will need to read up on the correct one to get. I was lucky with mine, worked 1st time once I had set the COM port correctly. Top fella is Brent.

Why not mail Brent P at autosportlabs and ask if he has a copy, else post up on the user forum there. Earliest version I have is 3.x

Yes, it is possible but you will need to remove the front bush mount for the bottom wishbone. This was modified to be a captive bush and bolt in later WBs. There is a kit to convert the top link to wishbone that you will need to use for anchoring the front of the new top wishbone. If you are running vertical links with trunnions, then you will need to buy new ones that are trunnionless to fit the later bottom WT wishbones. Canely Classics were cheapest when I did this here.

Or try welding a small bolt to the tap stud and winding it out.

As Pugwash says, go and ask your local council if they have any lock-ups available. Mine is <£30 a month and keeps the car nice and dry.

http://www.kevinsbusrail.com/pwt/diversified_1443.jpg

Live axle cage has a flat rear mounting plate that bolts to the top of the turret. I believe the dedion one protrudes down into the turret. I am sure you could modify either to get them working.

Ha ha, I remember sitting in my Electrical Field exams watching everyone doing the 3 finger spread.. I think it goes as follows: ThuMb is Motion First finger is Field SeCond finger is Current.

Check the balance between the carbs first before trying to adjust any mixture screws.

This one may help a little if you can zoom in a bit. here http://thumb0.webshots.net/t/96/96/8/60/29/2197860290103159900YBMDBt_th.jpg

Northampton Motorsport

Use a digital camera and take lots of pictures... I mean lots.. of all the bolts, washer locations etc. Wiring connectors and pipe routing etc. Freezer bags and a sharpie pen to label everything and some stacking storage boxes to keep it in, with contents lists on them. You will also need some nitrile gloves (a couple of boxes), old paint brushes and lots of white spirit (for de greasing and general gunk removal, plus some tubs to put things in as you clean them. I replaced all the high tensile bolts so make a list of the ones required and get them before you start. Engine hopist and stand are really useful as well as good work lights. They are very simple to strip and re-build so long as you are methodical and keep all bits together. Stripping will take about 3 weekends. Re conditioning and cleaning parts... depends on what you want to do but can be a while! Re-build is around 4 weeks of evenings and weekends, but that depends on your skill level and if you have other demands on your time. My strip down: here Edit for spelling and bad link. Jon Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:57:36 Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:58:42

I guess nobody else finds him funny... Have a BTT on me.

They look Bling!

Mav, I can't offer credit facilities :) However, I would take £275+ p&p This really is a super lens and much better value than the updated F4 version as it is near identical performance. I will throw in lots of advice to the purchaser on how to get the best out of this lens. Photos of the lens below: http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u432/jonboylaw/IMG_0316.jpg http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u432/jonboylaw/IMG_0317.jpg

When I took my tank out I left about a quarter tank in, just disconnected the fuel out line, the sender connectors (battery disconnected 1st) and the fuel neck, covered the open pipes with tank tape and undid the retaining straps and off with the roll bar. Came out the top with out having to drain it. Tank was then emptied into a couple of Jerry Cans and left to breath. I did blast some dry compressed air though it a little later to clear out the remaining fumes. I can't advise this method, just that I have a low appreciation for risk. When replacing, make sure the foam insulating strips are in decent condition and you might as well replace the fuel lines if they are more than a couple of years old. J

double post.... Edited by - jonboylaw on 28 Aug 2012 10:19:26

Chris, Did you get your mounts sorted out? I just bought some Jag rubbers off flea bay as they are the same. Also to stop the steering column vibrating off the DS pump, you need to put a washer or two between the mount and the rubber to cant the engine up slightly. Only needed on the offside though. Regards to you and the family.. Jon Edited by - jonboylaw on 28 Aug 2012 10:19:58

Hup, will be advertising in other places shortly. Would consider ONO from a Blatchatter, PM me. Jon

If anyone is interested, I have a set of Gaz adjustables and springs for a LA set up for sale. Would not be expensive, only done a few hundred miles. I am now running AVO, 300lb front and 115lb rears, I have to keep the rear to the softest setting as the AVOs can be a little harsh.

91 views and no offers.... This is an awesome lens, in very good condition, with all the bits and bobs. Here are a few examples of what it can do: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8308/7783681774_0260d9c3c2_z.jpg St Peter's - Cardross by Normalisdull, on Flickr http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8294/7783625236_b2d6ea55c9_z.jpg Polphail Village by Normalisdull, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7755617600_c7c3012c6a_z.jpg Incongregate by Normalisdull, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7280960220_9f1bc1e13f_z.jpg Bart Split toned by Normalisdull, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7280942168_4aa4c088b2_z.jpg IMG_9701 by Normalisdull, on Flickr

If the carbs were full of gunk then you might as well strip them down and inspect the jets, could be blocked.