jonboylaw
-
Posts
2,293 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by jonboylaw
-
*arrowup*
-
What sort of tillet are you looking for? High back or lowback racer ? I may have some old W1s available, but would need some mountings fabricated. Jon
-
Thanks Roger, How much do you want for them ? Jon
-
As for pushing the aluminium body out the way. I used sections of old 4litre milk carton to protect the skin whilst taking out the upper bolts. These can be taped the the body at the appropriate places. Re-fitting the lower can be a pain as you need to get the castor washers in and lined up. It just takes patience and time. Do not try to force anything, it will all go back together with the right amount of wiggling and the correct angles found. What year is the chassis and what engine do you have ? Jon
-
BOSS, I was referring to the plastidip. Did you PC the frame yourself or take it to a coater ? Jon
-
Boing. Would consider a sensible offer.
-
I was contemplating with the Fluorescent colours as well but decided to stick with black for the initial trial. I need to do my roll cage again so my consider a highlight colour and possibly the gloss finisher (it is a final layer you paint over thaty makes it gloss effect instead of matt). Anyone for a bulk buy ??? :D
-
Tim, I used the plastidip stuff, masked off the bushes, nicely cleaned WBs treated to a good dose of 400 grit paper to give a good key, the grey primer followed by a fair few coats of the rubber paint (you need to paint as the primer is just dry!). You can thin it and spray paint it as well (did the roll cage) but you need to build up a good few layers to make it effective. I really rate the stuff on the suspension, no chips in 2 years and no sign of rusting. Jon
-
Bob, Instead of enamel paint, have a look at the rubberized paint options. I used some on my WBs and they look good still and the stone don't chip it. You can even get a covering to make them gloss if you want. You must use the recomended primer though. Have a look here
-
With tiny front discs and drum on the rear, I hide them behind 13's. The car looks so much better on 13s with 65 or 70 profiles, low profile just look a bit chavvy and "after market" in my mind. My suspension set up is quite firm so the compliant side wall is also appreciated and with 021s at less that 50 quid a corner (last time I bought) they are cheaper.
-
TBH, you are better off taking it to a proper blaster and coater. You need a pretty hefty compressor to run those guns and the mess is a pain. For a few quid you could get them either blasted or dipped and stripped. The old Nitromores used to work well, but I fear you will not have any lick with the new stuff.
-
Hi, I have the boss and wheel available if you are still interested. BM me. Jon
-
Hi Nick, Which Axle is this? BL or Ford ? For BL see Jigsaw For Ford see SPC Yes, the CF prop price does make the eyes water!!! Jon Edited by - jonboylaw on 17 Jan 2012 13:40:12
-
I used halfords, just make sure you get the correct bore and ensure it is for fuel injection usage. Jon
-
Hi Nick, Why would you want to do this? Far better to look for an alloy diff nose as you will save much more unsprung weight. I have seen some adds for CF props, but would need to scout the web again, ah.. found this here I am surch Jochim can help you out.
-
I need the anchor bolts and fitting for a crotch strap, anyone got anything ?
-
Does it only do it when the engine is warm and the fan running? I am with Tweeky, could be the fan housing being blown onto the fan with the force of the air.
-
D'oh... Silly boy There are more pictures with the lens on the link above. Reason I am selling is that I now have 2 of these so selling the MK1. Jon
-
All done, scuttle on and no smoke in the cockpit.. hooray (unless the battery is flat...)
-
No snap lock here.... horrible things, I used proper spade connectors. I decided to wire the Start buttong with its live feed from T15 so that the key needs to be in and the ignition on before the switch becomes Hot. All wired in and looking good, just putting the scuttle back on now.
-
Cheers guys, I will run a Switch in series with the ignition switch so that I can isolate the ignition/power via the dash. The Starter button takes its feed from the Brown "hot" leads and other side connect to the starter solenoid... a bit cold in the garage today though... brrr
-
Can someone please post the "retained key switch" diagram up again or BM me with the circuit diagram please.
-
I have a set of GAZ adjustables for sale, for a LA car though. They were fine when I ran them, nice and compliant on the back. Currently running AVOs.
-
Hi Lee, Yes, it is a Mk1 version of the Muse. If you lok at my link above, you can see a picture of it in the set. Mav, No problem, thanks for letting me know.
-
Hi Mav, Have a look at the following Flickr set: here There were taken on my old EOS400 in Av mode, most with the ISO set to 200, some at 1600. It should give you an idea of the effects you can create although I am only just starting to learn how to use the Lensbaby. Jon
