Terry Field

Steve, did this several times with my old XF. Always removed the radiator, then took the box and engine out together. Much easier to mate up the box and engine to reinstall as well. It helps if you have a hoist with a balance bar too.

Some guidance please. 1.8 K (non VVC). Just checking the car over (cold) and the coolant seems to be very low, well below the 'coolant level' marker on the tank. Before I top it up I would appreciate some advice. Do I top it up to the line just about the 'Coolant Level' wording on the tank? My only reservation it that the level seems quite high and without much room for expansion when hot. Secondly, what antifreeze should I top it up with? The Comma versions available include the Comma Coldstream concentrate, which is mentioned in the original handbook. I assume that would ok to add to whatever is in there now? Many thanks

Selling these for a friend whose husband recently died, leaving a garage full of car related stuff. A pair of brand new Lucas 20-20 Lucas Halogen Driving Lamps. Never used and still in the original packing. Lenses approximately 7" across. Not sure about the original cost, but am asking £50 the pair, plus P&P, or other sensible offer.

Extensions received, hope to fit them over the weekend. Please PM with with payment details Many thanks

Another vote here for EP90. I used to unscrew the grease nipple and simply squirt in EP90 using an oil can at various times between the annual servicing. It takes just a few seconds. Mine did 0ver 50k without any problems.

I'm with JV #20 on this. The original assembly ( on the left in the picture) was incredibly stiff, but the quaife one is very smooth and free moving when removed from the box. I have dismantled it and cleaned it,although there was virtually no signs of dirt or water ingress or contamination. I am now quite sure that the gearstick assembly is fine. Everything I have done so far points to a 'sticky' box. I may try to raise the clutch bite point a little more, and it may well be with a chat with Road and Race. Many thanks

Hi Stu, When I bought the car 18 months ago, the gearchange was really hard. It turned out that the rose joint in the stick was very stiff. The dealer gave me a new gearstick assembly which was much looser and that made a bit of a difference, but not enough. At the time of changing the assembly I also changed the nylon saddle. The two gear assemblies were a bit different, the later one having a deeper 'collar' where it locates into the top of the gearbox. The attached picture shows the deeper collar on the gear assembly on the right hand side. I am not sure what you mean by the pivot assembly, and I don't feel confident about bashing the gearstick around without fully understanding what I am doing. Which part do I move, how far, and how hard do I hit an interference fit? It is the fact that I have had the same problem with both gearstick assemblies which leads me to suspect the 'box. Changing the oil seems like a cheap fix to see if anything improves before I try anything more radical / expensive.

18 months on from buying my car (1.8 K, Type 9, 5 speed) I am still not happy with the gearchange. It just seems too clunky and heavy for fast driving, and not what I would expect from a 'fast' car. Typically third to fourth takes a real pull, and going down from third to second is so slow that I lose all the revs. It also seem to get worse after a long drive - 160 miles today and by the end it was just plain hard work to change gear. My only comparison is with my previous 1700 X Flow which had such a light and responsive gear change that it was a delight to drive. That particular box was built by BHG (Brian) and I would really like him to do the same with this one (apart from the fact that we are now about 200 miles apart!) I intend to have a chat to my local Somerset group, Simon Houghton et al, and maybe get one of them to drive the car to see what their opinion is. In the interim, I am going to change the oil to see if that makes a difference, and I was wondering which oil you good folks would recommend. I already have a big syringe, but a methodology statement for an oil change would also help. All thoughts and comments welcomed!

Maybe have a word with Arch? Some years ago they replaced mine (foc) while I was having a bit of work done and they were much better afterwards.

When I had my cross flow, along with several other XFlow owners, I used Curd Brothers in Tunbridge Wells. A long way from you, but when my unit came back it looked absolutely brand new. Brilliant old school service. Give them a call!

In my spare time I work for a charity driving a mini bus around the lanes of Somerset. This involves a lot of reversing, often with a load of old ladies on board ( dont't go there!). Part of my role is to train new drivers, and it is surprising how many of them opt out because they cannot handle the reversing!

Thanks Ian and Jonathan

I would like to raise the bite point on the clutch a tad (K series). Is it just a case of moving the nut and lock nut on the pedal box end of the cable, and if so, which way?

Having suffered ( but got away with ) a fragmented foam baffle blocking the pick up, the car went into Andy Noble and Co at Sevens and Classics who simply removed the baffle completely. Admittedly this is for a car, 1.8 K, that only does road mileage, but it seems to work just fine.

Thanks. The current screws are 15mm, but that obviously won't matter.

Having read Antony Hawkins' article in LF about changing a clutch cable, I have decided to change the round head screws on the pedal box for the SEM screws which Antony shows. Can someone please let me know the size of the screws. I have a '99 K series. Thanks

Correction. I was thinking about instruments, not warning lights

If you are just trying to change a bulb you do not need to remove the coloured lenses. Just locate the bulb holder behind the instrument in question (just a metal tube). This should just pull out, complete with bulb. The bulb is probably a bayonet type- just twist and pull - replace the bulb and reverse the process. If the bulb is in the tachometer or speedo it may be difficult to get to the bulb holder. Either undo the arms behind the instruments completely and ease the instrument through the dash so that you can get to the bulb, or just loosen the arms and gently twist the instrument until you can reach the bulb holder. I have just replaced all my 4w bulbs with 5w in an attempt to cure the internal condensation.

Just found some OSRAM bulbs on Amazon. BA9s T5W. Will give it a go.

Before I let myself loose with the Dremel or similar,I was going to try increased wattage bulbs. On checking, I already have the T4W bulbs. Is it feasible to go with any higher wattage, and are they available?

The only true colours!

WD40, but they will need doing regularly

The club guide mentions increased wattage bulbs to help clear the condensation. What wattage is recommended?

It is an oil filled rad, no naked flames!

Just back from the Haynes blat, and after 80 miles the instruments are still clouded with condensation. I have had this with previous cars but it seems to be worse on the current car ('99 k series) What is the current thinking? Is drilling a v small hole in the casing effective, or are there other ideas? I should add that the car is kept in a well ventilated but cold garage, with a small oil heater to protect against frost.