Terry Field

Apologies, but I don't fully understand the problem. However, I had a problem following a rebuild where the speedo worked with the wheels jacked up off the ground, but not when on the road. I had numerous people try to fix it ( including the wonderful Redline) but to no avail. I eventually worked out that there are two ways to assemble the drive; one is to push the quill into the angle drive and then mount the whole unit onto the gearbox. The other is to push the quill into the gearbox and then put the angle drone onto the quill and connect it to the gearbox. Unfortunately I can't remember which one worked, and certainly never found out the reasoning behind it! However, it might just be worth a try to see if either method works for you. Cheers Terry

Oliver, i wanted to stretch my AX block to 1800, but it was faulty so I bought a 711M. Vulcan Engineering, who did the rebuild, weren't happy to go beyond 1700 (156bhp ). I don't know if they are still around, but at the time they did my engine they were racing a lot of X Flows, so had some experience. Terry

Nick YHM

Thanks. You're right - I need to get back there now there are some 'proper' cars! T

Sorry to Hijack - but I'm intrigued. Alderney is one of my favourite places (can you still get down to Telegraph Bay?) but where do you go in a 7, and do you get out of 2nd gear? Terry

If you do have the chrome oval stems, and assuming you can get them out, a good tip is to squeeze the 'long' side of the oval in by a few millimetres. This helps with the removal and refitting as the friction is not so bad. Also make sure that the seat is far enough forward so that you can pull the head restraint straight upwards without fouling the roll bar. This has worked well on my '96 classic for many years Terry

Andrew, Why do you want a gearbox mount? I've never heard of it being a problem. Terry

Hi Oliver Can I ask why you are stripping the axle? Mine is beginning to whine after 50k+ miles and I am thinking it might need a rebuild. From what little I have read, that might not be the most straightforward of tasks? Good luck with yours Terry

Forgot to say, Powervamp sell through eBay and use the Odyssey name for their products http://stores.ebay.co.uk/powervampracing/_i.html?sid=1103128404&_nkw=ODYSSEY+PC680+PVR25+RED+TOP+25+Battery+%2b+Bracket+Bundle+Honda+VTEC+CIVIC+ETC+ Terry

I have a 1700 '96 X Flow with a 711m block with 56,000 on the clock I use BP7ES plugs - these work fine in all conditions Halfords HOF203 Oil Filter Valvoline VR1 20w/50 oil (I buy online from Burton Motorsport) Battery Powervamp PVR25 (This is a gel type battery which can be mounted on its side and never needs toppiing up, but get a battery conditioner as well Battery conditioner (well worth it to protect your battery ) CTEK 12v 0.8amp (said to be for motorbike batteries but works well with the PVR25 Good luck Terry

I think I am right in saying that Dot 5 never (?) needs replacing because it does not absorb water from the air, although I am ready to be corrected by my more knowledgeable Blatchatters. If you don't have one, buy an Eezibleed kit - it saves gallons of fluid and does a really good job - wish I had bought one 20 years ago. Cheers Terry

I think a 1980's car is likely to have a live axle, but a peep under the rear end will soon tell you. And why would you want a live axle if you have a de dion? Terry

Hi, The carbs are likely to be a distraction unless you have been messing around with them, I would start with plugs - if you haven't changed them for a couple of years, do so. Ditto the HT leads. These can break down and cause all sorts of problems - again if you haven't changed them for a couple of years, then I would try that. Once you have checked those, follow Paul's approach Cheers Terry

Definitely replace top and bottom hoses as a minimum with silicone hoses. I did mine many years ago and have had no problems, whereas I used to replace rubber hoses at least annually. Terry

Andy I'm some way off from you (Taunton) but I have simple but effective hand held rivet gun if you want to borrow it. But in practice, they are probably not over expensive to buy. Cheers Terry

I have exactly the same problem on a similar set up. Speedy cables are good, but I think there are a lot of variables, including wheel size etc which may make it difficult to get a really accurate calibration. I have now bought a small gps speedo unit from Demon Tweeks for about £80. Lots of similar units via Amazon. It sticks on the windscreen with a small flexi arm, which shakes a bit on rough roads, but of course it has the advantage of knowing you are not going to get flashed. Terry

Tom Although you have toggled the switch, because we don't use them very often they get bunged up. Carefully prise the swich off the dash and disconnect it (note the cable position). With a bit of careful work with a small screwdriver, you can dismantle the switch and give it a good clean. It is quite easy to do, but if you do b*gger it up, a replacement switch won't break the bank. Terry

Ivaan Try James Paddock Limited. I think the spares come from a Triumph Spitfire. Terry

It started! Having determined to take the carbs off and find out why the pump rods weren't lifting, I was just about to set to with the spanners when I decided just to give everything one more bash to see if anything changed. I held open the throttle and pumped the fuel pump rods manually (done this several times before) and I could hear petrol moving around. The next minute up popped the fuel pump rods to the level they should have been at. Put it all back together and it started on the button. I still have no real idea what was wrong, or why it affected both carbs, but we are back on the road again, and I have learned a hell of a lot about Webers which I did't know before. So it is a big THANK YOU to everyone on Blatchat who helped out with such good advice, especially to Roger and Klunk. What an amazing club this is! Cheers Terry

M-B, fuel is getting through everywhere apart from the last bit to the bores! Everything is really clean I echo the views about the video - Part 2 follows part 1 for anyone wh is interested Hope to find time tomorrow to take the carbs off Cheers Terry

Hi M-B, I have had the pump rods out a couple of times - they are clean and moving well without any stickiness. I can see the logic of your comment, but everything looks OK Thanks Terry

Now THAT really is helpful, at least in one way. It is clear that the cam on the spindle is not lifting the rod, so there seems be a problem there. But why is the same thing happening on both carbs? I guess I have got to the point where the carbs have to come off . Many thanks Terry

Hi Roger, Managed to get a few minutes in the garage! Just to be clear, by pump rods I assume you mean the accelerator valve which is held in place by a small plate. I have taken both of these out and they seem to be clean, and moving freely. The same goes for the pump inlet and outlet valves. However, you talk about the rods 'sitting high'. With the throttle closed they are virtually sitting on the carb body. The front carb pump is only about 1mm up, and the rear about 1.5mm. When the throttle is opened, the rod falls by that minute amount, but that is all. How high would you expect the rods to be proud of the body? Regards Terry

Thanks Roger, I'll give it a try - probably be tomorrow now! Terry

I've just tried pumping the throttles, but I can see no fuel at any of the butterflies. It is a bit difficult to see, but there was nothing obvious, no smell, and I even pushed a piece of kitchen roll down one of the trumpets to see if it absorbed anything - but again it was dry. I then poured a couple of teaspoons of fuel straight into the trumpets - it fired instantly and ran for a couple of seconds (much popping and banging!) So it really does look as if there is some form of blockage or malfunction on the carbs (but why both of them?) Terry