Terry Field

Soft Bits For Sevens RE-Bag for S3. About 5 years old but used only 3 or 4 times. Excellent condition c/w padlock. £50 plus P&P at cost Terry

Alan I'm just packing up the mags. I need your phone no or e-mail to send them by collect plus, please Thanks Terry

Hi Alan The system doesn't want me to e mail you*confused* If you don't get my e mail please post again on here Thanks Terry

Hi Alan YHM

Either collect (Taunton) or I will post at cost. Terry

Hi Julian - yes, great memories! On sunny days like to day I question my sanity! Cheers Terry

As featured in this months Low Flying!

I am selling mine for personal reasons after 16 years, and I am gutted. Just a few points: They are rock solid reliable if properly maintained, which is very easy There are no complex electronics. If you service it yourself, which is dead easy, it costs less than £100 per year The sound is something else. If you are worried about MPG, don't buy a X Flow, buy a diesel. The handbrake is, quite frankly, irrelevant. I rarely use mine, just a bit of heel and toe when needed from take off. At full chat, they feel really smooth, and at lower speeds they are very torquey. They are real head turners - folks love to talk X Flow And if they have flares, they are double desirable By the way - did I mention I have a superb example for sale? Cheers Terry

As advertised in July's Low Flying!

Sorry Chris! Oddly, before I retired, I used to do about 7000 miles a year. Last year I did just 1000. The problem is that SWMBO doesn't like touring in it, and the roads down here are not really suited to 'spirited' driving - there are only so many times you can blat across Exmoor. It breaks my heart to sell it after so long, but it seems criminal to let it sit in the garage unused. I hope to buy something a bit older and more 'classic' to fill the space in the garage (may even have to buy a cloth cap!), and maybe do a bit more touring. I think the 7 will always be in my genes though! How's the 'new' car going by the way? Cheers Terry

1996 1700 X Flow. Live axle. Team Lotus green with yellow stripe and noseband. 51000 miles, but 36000 on this engine. Engine built by Vulcan Engineering, (accralite pistons, balanced engine, shallow sump, engine breather kit). 136 bhp on dyno, print out available. Twin 40’s. Rev limiter. 5 spd box prepared by BGH. Flares. 4 into 1 exhaust. Minilites. Sabelt harnesses. Tonneau, full viz hood, colour coded SBFS half hood. FIA roll bar. Heater. Four good AO21 tyres, plus spare wheel. Fire extinguisher. Powervamp racing gel battery. Quick rack steering with Momo suede steering wheel. Aux power socket for phone, charger etc. MoT until March 2017, no advisories. Lots of receipts. A real head turner. Some cosmetic marks and scratches, but mechanically well maintained and rock solid reliability. I have owned the car for 16 years, but it is not being used as it needs to be, hence a very reluctant sale. Pictures here: £10500 ono. Terry Field 01823 400 872 (Taunton) (NB. I am not around from the 17th - 28th June, but please leave a message)

I think I have cracked this problem. Same live axle set up, and I always used lots of fluid, took ages, never really got rid of all the bubbles, but somehow got a firm pedal. I always felt that air was leaking back through the nipple once the downwards pressure was released. The I discovered Eezibleed! Did the whole job single handed in no time at all, with no trouble getting rid of bubbles. I reckon that, because Eezibleed keeps a positive pressure on the system, air cannot the sucked back in, the result being an air free system very quickly. Wish I had bought one years ago. I also used Automec Dot 5 silicone brake fluid. More expensive than ordinary stuff, but allegedly never needs changing, absorbing virtually no moisture. Give it a try Cheers Terry

Sounds more like fuel starvation than heat related. Air starvation In the tank is possible, but unusual on a x flow - they tend to leak everywhere! I would look at the fuel pump. When you cleaned the tank out, did you change or clean the fuel supply pipe to the pump? Could that be blocked? Terry

Sounds like you have tried all the obvious things. I'll be interested to see how you get on. Thinking slightly out of the box (and probably not an issue of you have had the problem for years), but is there any excessive engine movement, mounts etc, that could be causing the problem? Cheers Terry

Jonathon, I only needed R to L movement, so no problem Terry

About 5 years ago now, but I used James Paddock. The whole kit, bolts, nuts seals plus p&p was under £15 for both sides together. Probably not a lot more now. Terry

I have never had that problem in 16 years, and I only have the rear support. Have you checked if the inlet manifold is flat, and have you tried copper exhaust gaskets (which I think you can still get)? Terry

The easiest method is to remove the accelerator pedal from the car (not the brake pedal) and then bend the pedal so that it sits closer to the brake pedal when refitted. Do it little by little so that you do not end up bending it backward and forwards. I did this on my '96 sprint and it worked fine. Terry

I have just had the same issue. Replaced the cable (less than £20 I think) and it transformed the car. Go for it Terry

Jean, 23psi sounds high. Doesn't it skate around a bit? Tery

Jonathon - thanks for the link. Yes - what are others fitting? My old 21's have a few miles left, at least in the dry, but they will need changing this summer. Cheers Terry

Thanks Jonathon - that's the one I was thinking of. cheers Terry

I know there has been a lot on this in the past, but I can't find it. What is the BC wisdom on the best tyre to replace the 21's? Just for road use these days - no track. This is on an Ital live axle. Cheers Terry

Apologies, but I don't fully understand the problem. However, I had a problem following a rebuild where the speedo worked with the wheels jacked up off the ground, but not when on the road. I had numerous people try to fix it ( including the wonderful Redline) but to no avail. I eventually worked out that there are two ways to assemble the drive; one is to push the quill into the angle drive and then mount the whole unit onto the gearbox. The other is to push the quill into the gearbox and then put the angle drone onto the quill and connect it to the gearbox. Unfortunately I can't remember which one worked, and certainly never found out the reasoning behind it! However, it might just be worth a try to see if either method works for you. Cheers Terry

Oliver, i wanted to stretch my AX block to 1800, but it was faulty so I bought a 711M. Vulcan Engineering, who did the rebuild, weren't happy to go beyond 1700 (156bhp ). I don't know if they are still around, but at the time they did my engine they were racing a lot of X Flows, so had some experience. Terry