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James, Check your fax. Steve B

Point of order! The 'two piece punch thing' is a Q Max cutter. Steve B

James, If you provide a fax number I will send the appropriate pages from the Rover manual. Steve B

It is! Steve B

Check the inertia (fuel pump) cut out which is on the LH side of the bulkhead. Although how it re-instates itself God knows. Steve B

Not related to Sweaty Betty the Boil Sucker I hope 🤔 Steve B

Simple really. Copy; Paste into Excel Select the column into which you pasted Data - Text to Columns. Bobs yer uncle and Fanny's a dirty word. Steve B

Yup, you've got the m/c push rod adjusted incorrectly. The piston MUST be at the rearmost of it's travel, ie against the circlip. You have partially pressurised the system and with the brake off the port to the reservoir is masked. Steve B

To be pedantic, knock isn't really what you should hear. The noise may better be described as a rattle. And that is what is happening; the backlash in the gear set (input shaft to cluster gear) is being excited by engine accels and decels. For that, read uneven or low idle speed. Pick the revs up a little and I am sure it will improve. Steve B

Questions: 1) Does it whine on, drive, over-run or drift? 2) In neutral (drift to a halt) is the whine there right until the point of stopping? Yes to any in 1 - it's the gear set. Yes to 2 - it's invariably the pinion bearings, usually the nose. Answers please on a .................. Steve B

The dial indicator base may be mounted on the disc, so that the stylus of the 'clock' (DTI) is in contact with the end of the stub axle and truly aligned with the stub axle center line. Grasp the disc at 12 and 6 o'clock and pull the assembly towards you - zero the clock -and push away. Note the reading and adjust as required. Zero end float, or more correctly no preload, is the desired condition to minimize pad knock back. Use the above method until you adjust the end float out. Please note, there should be no need to use a wrench after the initial bedding sequence. Having said all of that, with a modicom of experience it is possible to set the bearing by finger tightening the adjuster nut as the hub is rotated. It certainly won't be possible to damage the bearings by hand tightening! Oh, and before someone says it - the adjuster nut should be free to rotate on it's thread. Steve B

This is scary! Please, please do not overtighten bearings in this way, the cups will be locally brinelled and possibly ridged. The correct method (with the brakes out of contact) is to seat the assembly by simultaneously rotating the hub and tightening slowly to about 8Nm. Back off the adjusting nut to give 0.002 / 0.004 END FLOAT. The tolerance will give you the opportunity to find an appropriate split pin location. Rock at the wheel rim is an inaccurate method, use a DTI on the stub axle. There is a caveat to this in that with disc brakes, pad knock back can be an issue - so you may reduce the end float to ZERO (that must be an oxymoron!), but do not preload taper roller bearings in this application. Steve B

Threw me this oneconfused.gif The layshaft (cluster gear) is the one inside the box! I believe that you need an input shaft (stem wheel or first motion). Try a wooden dowel rod, (broom 'andle) with the end 'adjusted' to the crankshaft spigot bush diameter. Steve B

JBC 1753 (HGD) The bit in brackets is a Jaguar Cars reference. Don't forget that this paint is CoB, ie has a clear laquer top coat. Steve B

Ade, Call Brown Bos in Kingfield Road, Cov. If you get really stuck drop me an email. Steve B

Nick, you have mail Steve B

Wot's SULPURquestion.gif Rotton eggs, stop worrying, it's the catalytic converter. The battery would have gone up in smoke by now. Steve B

I posted this a while ago. You may find it useful - especially the last sentence. If I remember correctly the damper button should have 0.002 / 0.004 endfloat. This needs to be measured along the complete used length of the rack in order to avoid preload (binding). The damper spring will keep the contact of the pinion and rack only to alieviate rack knock (not really relevant to a Seven. The bottom line, as correctly mention previously, is to avoid binding. By the way, one of the best rack lubricants is EP140 - yes 140, at about a 1/4 of a pint. Steve B

Swarf? In sump? Suspect oil pressure? Good God man, pull a big end shell (at least two) and inspect. That should be your first check point especially considering that the sump is off. Quite how checking the cams (very hard surfaces) is useful is beyond me. Steve B

Bob, Is there a diagnostic socket anywhere (or interrogation point for the ECM)? The recorded DTCs will identify the fault - only needs a scan tool. Steve B

And they look so damm coolcool.gif. Steve B

Ah, so you are 14.2857 stones thenquestion.gifteeth.gif Steve B

Absolutely no doubt; a Qmax cutter. No rotating parts, a simple punch.

Steve, Actually Brown Bros are nationwide, we have one in Coventry (just 2 light years from Clare)teeth.gif. Dan you are NOT reading my post! The Capri was a one off and nothing to do with AML - we used the AM part of the name under license. AMT was not allied to AM, was bought by CH holdings in the mid 80's, as I alluded and then became subject to a management buy-out in about 1990 - thus became Tickford. AML would have no knowledge whatsoever. There is a rider to this, the guy who painted the Capri is still around and if push came to shove I might be able to raise him. Oh and the paint was very probably Glasurit - that was our system. Steve B

AMT hasn't existed since 1989. We did a Tickford Capri in said color in 87 and as far as I was aware it was unique. The paint system was Glasurit. Paint 'chip' or 'plaque' (not a swatch) - not a chance. Try Brown Brothers and take the car for a match. Good luck. Steve B