sjwb

Tinbum, Ditch it and fit a cycle computer. Cheaper, more accuracy and functionality. See you on the 15th. Steve B

Hey!!!! Coventry is on the map. Makes a change from the Southerners hogging the site. Not only batteries, but reference the threads on all motoring needs, Oscotts (Cov and Birmingham) are prolific in there inventory. Steve B

Pipe cutter as used by the plumbing fraternity. This then leaves a perfectly square stub for reconnection and blanking plugs. Steve B

Radiator! Colleague has just had exactly the same. The core had disintigrated. Steve B

Explanation: Lambda sensor (O2 sensor) (Oxygen Sensor) exists for the following and is situated above the catalyst in the Caterham scenario. A comparison between the level of oxygen in the exhasut gas to that in the atmosphere produces an output (electrical) signal. The signal is used by the engine 'closed loop' fuel strategy to make FUELLING corrections and so CONTROL overall emission levels. The fuelling correction is achieved by varying injector pulse duration. Nothing else to it, no mystery, simply this. Where there are two sensors - one upstream and one downstream of the catalyst, the comparison of upstream and downstream signals allows determination of catalyst conversion efficiency. Steve B

Simon, All the clues are there! Just carry out a compression check and forget all this about valve guides. Don't forget to do the check with the engine hot (if it will run an four), remove ALL of the plugs, disable the fuel pump, hold the throttle wide open then crank. Record your figures (including cranking speed) and then apply about 15cc of engine oil into each bore (as you re-fit the compression fitting) and recheck. If there is a marked diference in the two readings, ie a higher pressure at the second check, then the betting is a piston related failure; if no difference (excepting a holed piston of course) then look towards the top of the engine. I would imagine a normal figure around 180 psi (12 bar) depending on battery and engine condition. Your problem will, I am sure, manifest itself with this simple check. Best of luck. Steve B

JP, Not so much anti squeal but anti-rattle. If you can put up with the noise (very little) the pedal feel will be enhanced without them. Steve B

Mmmmm, transmission fluid from the crank oil seal, that'll be a first. Just send it back, it really doesn't matter what the cause is - it ain't your problem. Steve B

Robster, Take the rotor arm off and you should see a groove in the bore which may just be the location for your spring steel mystery item. Usually employed to stop the rotor arm rattling about. Steve B

Explanation: Lambda sensor (O2 sensor) (Oxygen Sensor) exists for the following and is situated above the catalyst in the Caterham scenario. A comparison between the level of oxygen in the exhasut gas to that in the atmosphere produces an output (electrical) signal. The signal is used by the engine 'closed loop' fuel strategy to make FUELLING corrections and so CONTROL overall emission levels. The fuelling correction is achieved by varying injector pulse duration. Nothing else to it, no mystery, simply this. Where there are two sensors - one upstream and one downstream of the catalyst, the comparison of upstream and downstream signals allows determination of catalyst conversion efficiency. Steve B

Please, please NEVER use saddle soap. It dries and scoures the leather. Further, it is only intended for the robust hide thickness and natural finish as in horse tack. The best and only recommended treatment is Connolly Hide Food to be applied sparingly. My advice was gained from two sources, Rolls Royce Motors and Crowtree leathers. Steve B

Simon, What is a 'suction child'? Steve B

Jimmy Maybe you should read the Caterham handbook. Ze poppun unt bangen equals dead catalytic converters that's why there are over-run controls in the ECM. Having said that the air leak theory is the one to go for, just slip-joint your muffler to downpipe junction - as I am sure your motorcyle is. Steve B

Oh, they do Arn. Go to a motorcycle track day and witness the amount of bikes without plates and ask why.

Oh what an unimajinative lot!!!!!! Insurance companies monitor track days. So if they see your registration and you subsequently make a claim for an 'alleged' road related claim. DO I NEED TO SPELL IT OUT? Steve B

Pierre It is difficult to understand why you would want to drill holes unecessarily. Keep corrosion, unsightliness and weakness at bay - don't do it! Use velcro or thin rubber strips secured with Evostik (or similar) I assure you it will not let go. Appropos motorcycles, I have always fixed number plates in this manner and not lost one yet. Steve B

Adopt the Italian ethos. If it is behind you it's history, so why worry? There is of course a failing in the theory, in that it may be the Feds! I have the tiny carbon thingies on my windshield frames whih seem OK. But, having said that - and to pre-empt replies to the contrary, being a motorcyclist of many summers I am used to compromized rearward vision. You can adapt to anything. Steve B

And whatever you do to one side, do to the other. This to preserve the equal length of the track rods and thus the steering geometry. Assuming of course that they were equal in the first place! Steve B

Go down the scapper, find the appropriate propshaft, remove the input sleeve at the UJ, et voila! A bung that will NOT wreck your tail seal. Steve B

Go onto the RS Components website and source their rather splendid hi-output LEDs. The blue (or more correctly purple) is just the job. Steve B

F*** me! You have enough light when you can see!!!!!!!!!!! I am finding it increasingly difficult to reconcile some of the questions on this site.

Location, location, location! Steve B

Soooo? What are F1 cars made of then? Steve B

Check your earth paths. Steve B

My sentiments entirely regarding hand tools. Always buy the best you can afford, Snap On, Blue Point, Proto, Facom, Bahco and believe it or not the original Britool and Gordon were quite OK. Modern stuff - crap! Favourite expensive tool? Well not exactly a tool, but an hydraulic motorcycle lift. Absolutely superb! Get the Seven halfway on it, blocks under the chassis rails and pump away - either end. It makes me smile reading threads like bleeding the cooling system; no problem, on the lift, up goes the front with the header tank at the highest point. A five minute job. And whilst your at it you can remove the front wheels and play at mechanics. Just a note of explanation I have mine recessed into the workshop floor so there is no issue with clearance. Five years ago I built a W*******d on it and it was indespensible - saved the aged spine you know. Steve B