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This site frightens the crap out of me! No tools, want to do it myself? You are joking - right? However you were right to ask Richard! To change the gear-set you need to set the pinion height to plus or minus 0,0005" of a figure you will never learn and for this you need a parallel of the correct diameter, a dummy pinion (optional) and a set of slip gauges. Now you need to regulate the pinion pre-load. Depending on the type of bearing set, this may be a crush washer or shims; either way, special tools are required to hold the pinion flange and measure the rotational torque. Not to mention of course getting the bearings on and off whilst using the handling procedures that experience and training impart. On to the difficult bit. It is also the following that will apply if you are just fitting an LSD and not the complete gear-set. To set the crown wheel relative to the pinion (having got the depth of engagement correct) we need to adjust the backlash and diff box bearing preload. This is the skillful bit - believe me. A) Because there is always run out on the diff box to confuse the issue (crown wheel mounting face). B) The bearing preload adjustment has a profound affect on the backlash and so it becomes a juggling act. To judge the attained preload by observed turning torque is difficult enough and to assess it as a combination of the two (torques) is nigh on impossible. Experience and or tooling again. Get it wrong (as you surely will) and at best you will have a noisy diff. At the worst? A seized unit which hopefully won't wreck the car. This is not meant to demean, or imply stupidity, merely to point out that there are some skills that are very special and cannot be learned on a one-off basis. The very act of training in cases like this usually means that the trainer might just as well have done the job in the first place. In closing, please think again when giving advice that may send others on a (sic) road to ruin. Steve B

Anthony, Glad your fixed up. My stock comes many years in engineering and it's a wonder that I can remember what I ahve got at times! Yep, parallel is good; the fitting should be tapered and a little sealant applied - Loctite pipe sealant for instance rather than PTFE tape. Good luck Steve B

Never read so much bollocks in my life! BSW is NOT compatible with BSP. If indeed your thread is 3/8 BSP then you (funnily enough) need a BSP tap! This has a nominal major diameter of .656", 19 TPI and requires a tapping drill of 19/32 or .5938" diameter. Anthony, if you need a tap I will loan one to you. Dave H, please do your homework first before providing disinformation. Steve B

P Done it! S

Obviously no motorcyclists here! Fancy being self consious about a pair of boots. I cannot drive in anything other than me Sparco's so it's a done deal. My best compliment this year came from a tattoed badass m******f****r biker and his brothers at a pub one summer evening. The conversation went something like. "Hi, aren't you hot in those (racing) leathers?" Quoth he sitting there in sawn off jeans and denim jacket. "No" I primly replied. "I like to look after my skin." "Cool" he said, "You know what we (bros) call you lot"? Like a merth to the flame. "No, tell me". "Power Rangers!" came the retort. Larf, I peed myself. Now, off to practice those skyscraper leaps! There is always another skew on things. Steve B

Pierre, If you supply a fax number I will transmit the relevant pages from the GENUWHINE Rover manual. Steve B

Just a few points. You should be using Dot 5 (or greater) fuid. Presumably the vehicles are fitted with braided hoses. Pressure bleeding appliances are fine, just follow the instructions. I can recommend Eezibleed and it is cheap! The best way to evacuate final air residue is, with an assistant, hold the brake under (foot) pressure, crack appropriate bleed nipple and lock before end of pedal travel. This is a motorcycle dodge which is very effective.The sponginess may indeed be due to air in the system however, the hose type is also an influence. The point about air in the system, from causes other than disassembly, is that non silicone fluid is VERY hygroscopic and in our damp climate this is critical. Change the fuid regularly and only use fresh fluid from a sealed container. If you encounter fluid boiling on a track day something else is amiss, "hotter than anyone else's"! There is a clue there perhaps. I use AP brakes, Pagid RS 14 rear pads and have a pedal that is constantly hard with no excess travel. Just a final thought; using my original (small) brakes, a track day saw off (overheated) the front pads, did not cause any sponginess and only increased pedal travel slightly. There seemss to be a process issue here. Don't bleed the brakes between track days, renew the fluid and use a pressure bleed system.

Wozza, I have an unused 'headrest' in original packaging. Yours for £20; if your interested drop me an email. Steve B

Point of order Mr Chairman! The RECTIFIER converts AC to DC, the REGULATOR controls the (then) DC voltage output of the alternator to match demand. The reg/rectifier is usually encapsulated (according to manufacturer) in the alternator. Doesn't make sense to have a component part of the alternator remotely located. Do the simple things first - check the (dynamic) battery voltage. Never mind the points of a volt, your meter will probably not be that accurate anyway.

I believe that the rectifier / regulator is a component part of the alternator, situated behind the stator and around the armature; Non servicable but re-newable. I would have thought that a reg problem would have manifested itself in more obvious ways, fluid loss from the battery, bright lights, erratic engine, blown fuses et al. Quick check - put a voltmeter across the battery, everything swithed on and run the motor to about 1500 rev. min. You should see about 13 to 14 volts. With all the equipment off, the result should be very similar. Top voltage? No more than 14.5V. I would dearly love to see an automotive electrical charging system without voltage / current regulation.

Buy a motorcycle helmet from such a place as J&S, Carnells or Motorcycle City. You will be amazed at the prices. You certainly will not be ripped off as with your friendly car people (how do they charge such outrageous prices?). Weight, what rot - motorcycle helmets are probably more relevant in a 7 than any other and believe me they are MUCH lighter! As for make - how big is your wallet? If you are contemplating to spend such as our correspondents, the Arai or Shoei they simply are THE best. Depends on the shape of your head, seriously you will suit one or the other. But, £100 to £150 will buy you a very good product. I speak both as a motorcyclist (of many years) and a 7ist. One final thought, buy a full face, you will be amazed at the serenity and safety. Car drivers know nowt about headgear!

I have an exhaust shield. Drop me an email.

I have a set of standard front calipers, flexis and discs off a 2000 1.8 Roadsport (with 3500 miles on them). Make me an offer - I need the space.

Almost certainly caused by worn (fuel) float needle valves. Dead easy to renew, but you must set the float level correctly after fitting the valves. I had exactly the same problem, which drove me nuts for weeks - the reason being at idle with a warm engine, the fuel level gradually rises causing an enriched mixture. Not a problem under normal running conditions.

I have a few observations that you may wish to consider; an article of some 1400 words concerning my inculcation into Sevens. I did not wish to 'clog' the BlatChat pages without permission and await advice as to the best (sic) forum.

Robster, How the bloddy hell do the gases get in and out then????????? Carl, With a bit of ingenuity you can make your own valve retention tool and spring compressor.

You MUST center the rack before any other activity. If Mr Caterham has done his work correctly, then center the steering wheel and adjust the tracking. Now the important bit - do NOT end up with one track rod (effectively) longer that the other. ALWAYS set the steering wheel by splines (there are enough combinations), never juggle the track rod length. Why? The 'bump-steer' will be compromised side to side, giving uneven responses and odd steering geometry.

I will telephone you first; I am very interested if; the car is still for sale.