sjwb

Forget the dust seal bit, be more concerned about the egress of grease and contamination of the rear brakes *eek* *eek* Steve B

Pinking is as a result of preignition caused by something other than the spark. What you are refering to is detonation. Most modern EMS have det sensors which retard the ignition at the onset of detonation. Whether you fool the ait temperature sensor or more usual MAF sensor will not automatically lead to more power. There are a myriad of other parameters to consider. Sounds like bunk to me. Steve B

Barring the BMW they are (I believe) integrated into the crankcase and would need a housing of some sort. By the time that's been done you may well have done better to stay with an automotive type. I suspect that the output could be a limiting factor also. Steve B

I posted this a while ago. You may find it useful - especially the last sentence. If I remember correctly the damper button should have 0.002 / 0.004 endfloat. This needs to be measured along the complete used length of the rack in order to avoid preload (binding). The damper spring will keep the contact of the pinion and rack only to alieviate rack knock (not really relevant to a Seven. The bottom line, as correctly mention previously, is to avoid binding. By the way, one of the best rack lubricants is EP140 - yes 140, at about a 1/4 of a pint. Grease is a complete waste of time. Steve B

Sperex products are as good as any. Steve B

Rob, If you can, use caphead bolts retained with Loctite 272 os similar. Apprpos 8.8, this isn't classed as a fixing suitable for this application. Steve B

OK, please explain and quantify 'wheel rub'? That is the very reason using a torque wrench / meter - to avoid damaging the bearings whilst ensuring that the races are bedded. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 4 Mar 2003 16:10:33

Edited by - sjwb on 4 Mar 2003 13:27:23

Well, there's NOT how to do it. Talk about a little knowledge . The races need to be drifted out using a steel bar (they cannot be pressed out) - damage to the back of the race is immaterial because you are going to renew the assemblies anyway. What is far more important is to reduce the tipping of the race to a minimum to avoid damaging the hub bore. Do NOT tighten until the wheel is difficult to turn; not unless you wish to mark the races and brinnel the rollers that is. Please rotate the hub and preload to about 30 to 50 lbs/inches, back of and set the hub END FLOAT to .001" - .003". Do not under any cricumstances run with a preloaded bearing. Don't replace the split pin, renew it; as of course you should with the oil seal. There will be - and should not be, bearing related run-out or rumble. Absolutely Brent, all being impossible without removal of the caliper Steve B

Firstly, leave it alone. Secondly, are you sure that you were not recording ovality in the journal - and even if you were this minute amount can be discounted. Steve B

1,25 In 25.95 - 26.25 Ex 21.95 - 22.25 1,4 In 27.95 - 28.25 Ex 23.95 - 24.25 1,6 In 29.95 - 30.25 Ex 23.95 - 24.25 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 Steve B

Absolutely, it is the input shaft gear chuntering against the layshaft gear. The rattle is caused primarily by a non steady idle and second by inadequate (if any) clutch or flywheel damping. Either way this noise is VERY distinct. Steve B

1.6 Zetec SE 79 X 81.4 1.4 Zetec SE 76 X 76.5 1.25 Zetec SE 71.9 X 76.5 Bit of crank commonality here . Steve B

2000, 1.8 Supersport 5 Speed De Dion Black and Aluminium, Leather seats 7100 miles 1 st MOT 2 days ago New A 021R Tyres all round FIA Roll Bar 4 Point Harneses Full Weather Gear inc Tonneau Heater AP 4 pot front Brakes Red Center Starter Button Carbon Mirrors Custom Rear Nerf Bar (spare and carrier included) Custom Front Side Repeaters Aluminium Caterham gear knob Cycle Speedometer fitted Passenger map pocket Passenger interior lamp (you would not believe how useful this is!) Absolutely immaculate and has not been driven in the rain. This car is cleaned EVERY time it is used with the wheels being removed, washed and polished every two trips. Brakes and components compressed air blown-off folowing every trip. Polished exhaust. Engine run on Syner G which has been renewed every three months. Everything operates and fits correctly on this car as a result of countless hours of fettling and finnessing. Many Stainless and Cap head fixings I will supply pictures and more detail if required, email me in the first instance. £15250 Steve B

I thought that this was interesting, here bearing in mind that many of the pre-war motorcycles and racing cars had 'elektron' parts. Steve B

Actually what Rob described was exactly what happens to glycol based fluid *confused*; Never resulting in brake loss, but more ususally long and mushy pedal. Use DOT 4 or 5.1 and change it REGULARLY. Steve B

Colin, I don't disagree with your sentiment. However, knowing the durability testing that Ford did all those years ago I think it's safe to bet that grief to the transmission was far in excess of anything that you will give it. Remember a typical durability cycle will represent 150,000 miles. Sure, there are weaknesses in all mechanical components, but I bet there has not been a proven (sic) standard lubrication related failure on record. Really must do some work Steve B

Erm, Ford Sierra 🤔 Check on the standard vehicle and don't waste your money on so called special lubricants. Steve B

Not sure really; it is the generic round Caterham aluminium knob with the 7 badge in the top (ie no shift pattern). Steve B

OK I give in ❗ ❗ I'll throw in a genuwine Caterham fleece and negotiate the price Somebody out there is missing a super car. Steve B

Mine is retained by a grub screw (ooo errr missus) 😬 There is no internal KNOB thread. Steve B

Roger, I have sent you some images. Regarding keeping bare aluminium clean, I don't consider it more difficult than a painted surface. In fact it might be easier than some. Black and Alloy 🤔 What better color contrast is there 🤔. Seriously, I think that it looks very good because the contrast is so strong. Steve B

Absolutely, a Jubilee clip is inappropriate in this application. Steve B

Boing! Still for sale. Steve B

I have an issue with the article. The method of ascertaining TDC is flawed. Firstly it relies on the crank pulley mark, which in turn relies on the index of the keyway, which in turn relies on the crank keyway angular accuracy. No, this is not nit-picking its a stack up of unknown tolerances. I believe an accurate (and only needs to be done once process) is to set a DTI in line with the cylinder axis, through the plug hole 1 or 4 and a dgree disc on the front pulley. Turn the motor clockwise towards TDC and note when the clock stops. Mark the degree disc position (relative to a pointer) and continue to rotate the crank very slowly. You will be surprised to see the crank rotate but the clock remain stationary. When the clock starts to move again (piston going down) mark the position. True TDC is half the angular distance between the two recorded points. Try it. Steve B