Paul Drawmer

Are the new springs are stiffer than the old? If so: the front/rear stiffness will have changed, understeer will be reduced, the rear dampers will not check the spring action as much as the softer ones. To restore compliance - go back to softer springs. To restore balance & remove nervousness: uprate front springs in ratio with rears, uprate all shocks. If the rear damping isn't a problem, ie they cope with the stiffer springs, then just fitting a stiffer front anti roll bar may help. Edited much later (I've been working today) to say that the cheapest 1st trial should be to increase the front tyre pressure by 10%. (It will raise the spring/tyre combination stiffness) Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 26 Mar 2005 20:20:36

You MUST ensure that the cleaner / polish whatever, does not contain ammonia. This will make the plastic go yellow v.quickly! That's why I stick to the proper stuff. Many car polish products contain ammonia - T cut has so much you can smell it, others may have less. Plexus is good, and BMW ❗ do a good product for soft top rear screens, it comes in a blue 'toothpaste' tube.

Iron block on the BMW. don't know what the weight would be.

7 ignorance showing.... Is there a bleed screw on the metal water rail where it runs round the back of the engine? I'm referring to the pipe that takes coolant into the thermostat housing under the inlet manifold.

When Mr Chocolate passed me (several times) at Enstone track day - I liked the look of his dash mounted shift lights flashing past!!

This was posted on Piston Heads recently - I have reason to believe that the poster knows what he is talking about: My car with 1999 EU2 VVC passed SVA on 14/1/05 (it failed the first test on emissions becuase the new cat. was faulty) the emissions results are printed on the V5c. Not good news for those who have been enjoying the home build visible smoke test.

They may just be too damn hard!

You're quick enough already! Give Dave Andrews a ring, he doesn't bullsh1t and will give you proper answers. Number's on his website. edited to insert sense and remove confusion. Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 23 Feb 2005 16:04:19

Forgive me, now I understand your starting point - it sounds as if you need help in the set up dept, as you originally asked ❗ Over to the experts in that dept, quite sure that I haven't any advice that would be appropriate. Best of luck, and hope you get it so that you really enjoy your Superlight.

Now, I'm going to ask some really basic questions - please do not be offended.... As it's your first Seven, when you drive the car, what are you comparing it with? If the car you are most used to is FWD and with traction control, then there is going to be a learning process. You use the expression: "when powering through a corner..." Assuming that you haven't entered too fast, at which point in the corner are you applying power; Before, at or after the apex? When you increase power; do you squeeze the throttle progressivlely, or floor it? Is the oversteeer more obvious on slow corners like roundabouts, or fast bends? Would you describe the road surface as damp? If your answers are: before, floor, slow, yes - then welcome to rear wheel drive.

It's probably the Rover diagnostic plug. Used for 5AS immobiliser/ keys/ ECU alignment, and also fault code reporting. With the right tool on the end (Rover / Lotus garages only) you can read out all the figures from the ECU.

Regarding LED rear lights. Avoid the LED replacement bulbs. They are directional compared with conventional, consequently the emitted light other than directly in fron of the bulb will be less than conventional. Also when used in indicators, the load is less which will cause the relay to work double time (MOT failure). I've tried them, and taken them off again. Best bet is to go for proper LED rear light units. Having said that, I don't know where to go for any suitable for the Caterham.

Thanks Dave, you are a Star.

Friend of mine is collecting parts for an upgrade.... Currently has std 1.8 plastic plenum, and has aquired a cast alloy plenum. It doesn't look like the one on my VVC, it looks as if the plenum volume is similar to the plastic one, and the inlet is set at an angle to the main chamber; it points towards the middle of the car, rather than straight back. It doesn't have the horrid 'VVC' emblem on it either. Please can someone tell me if this will work as well as a VVC plenum?

Great looking on period cars - imitations on modern cars just look silly. Had a Sunbeam Alpine with wires. Experienced loss of brakes with 'growling' noise from front. Brakes were locking a treat, but the splined hubs had worn and the wheel was rotating on the hub. Also the centre lock spinners were left hand thread on the left side of the car, to make sure that any rotational vibration did them up - normal practice. Very common to find that the left hand spinner threads were ruined by numpties trying to undo them in the wrong direction and using a really BIG hammer! That's why the spinners were usually brass or bronze. They would give up before the thread on the hub. Avoid.