Paul Drawmer

Are the new springs are stiffer than the old? If so: the front/rear stiffness will have changed, understeer will be reduced, the rear dampers will not check the spring action as much as the softer ones. To restore compliance - go back to softer springs. To restore balance & remove nervousness: uprate front springs in ratio with rears, uprate all shocks. If the rear damping isn't a problem, ie they cope with the stiffer springs, then just fitting a stiffer front anti roll bar may help. Edited much later (I've been working today) to say that the cheapest 1st trial should be to increase the front tyre pressure by 10%. (It will raise the spring/tyre combination stiffness) Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 26 Mar 2005 20:20:36

You MUST ensure that the cleaner / polish whatever, does not contain ammonia. This will make the plastic go yellow v.quickly! That's why I stick to the proper stuff. Many car polish products contain ammonia - T cut has so much you can smell it, others may have less. Plexus is good, and BMW ❗ do a good product for soft top rear screens, it comes in a blue 'toothpaste' tube.

Iron block on the BMW. don't know what the weight would be.

7 ignorance showing.... Is there a bleed screw on the metal water rail where it runs round the back of the engine? I'm referring to the pipe that takes coolant into the thermostat housing under the inlet manifold.

When Mr Chocolate passed me (several times) at Enstone track day - I liked the look of his dash mounted shift lights flashing past!!

This was posted on Piston Heads recently - I have reason to believe that the poster knows what he is talking about: My car with 1999 EU2 VVC passed SVA on 14/1/05 (it failed the first test on emissions becuase the new cat. was faulty) the emissions results are printed on the V5c. Not good news for those who have been enjoying the home build visible smoke test.

They may just be too damn hard!

You're quick enough already! Give Dave Andrews a ring, he doesn't bullsh1t and will give you proper answers. Number's on his website. edited to insert sense and remove confusion. Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 23 Feb 2005 16:04:19

Forgive me, now I understand your starting point - it sounds as if you need help in the set up dept, as you originally asked ❗ Over to the experts in that dept, quite sure that I haven't any advice that would be appropriate. Best of luck, and hope you get it so that you really enjoy your Superlight.

Now, I'm going to ask some really basic questions - please do not be offended.... As it's your first Seven, when you drive the car, what are you comparing it with? If the car you are most used to is FWD and with traction control, then there is going to be a learning process. You use the expression: "when powering through a corner..." Assuming that you haven't entered too fast, at which point in the corner are you applying power; Before, at or after the apex? When you increase power; do you squeeze the throttle progressivlely, or floor it? Is the oversteeer more obvious on slow corners like roundabouts, or fast bends? Would you describe the road surface as damp? If your answers are: before, floor, slow, yes - then welcome to rear wheel drive.

It's probably the Rover diagnostic plug. Used for 5AS immobiliser/ keys/ ECU alignment, and also fault code reporting. With the right tool on the end (Rover / Lotus garages only) you can read out all the figures from the ECU.

Regarding LED rear lights. Avoid the LED replacement bulbs. They are directional compared with conventional, consequently the emitted light other than directly in fron of the bulb will be less than conventional. Also when used in indicators, the load is less which will cause the relay to work double time (MOT failure). I've tried them, and taken them off again. Best bet is to go for proper LED rear light units. Having said that, I don't know where to go for any suitable for the Caterham.

Thanks Dave, you are a Star.

Friend of mine is collecting parts for an upgrade.... Currently has std 1.8 plastic plenum, and has aquired a cast alloy plenum. It doesn't look like the one on my VVC, it looks as if the plenum volume is similar to the plastic one, and the inlet is set at an angle to the main chamber; it points towards the middle of the car, rather than straight back. It doesn't have the horrid 'VVC' emblem on it either. Please can someone tell me if this will work as well as a VVC plenum?

Great looking on period cars - imitations on modern cars just look silly. Had a Sunbeam Alpine with wires. Experienced loss of brakes with 'growling' noise from front. Brakes were locking a treat, but the splined hubs had worn and the wheel was rotating on the hub. Also the centre lock spinners were left hand thread on the left side of the car, to make sure that any rotational vibration did them up - normal practice. Very common to find that the left hand spinner threads were ruined by numpties trying to undo them in the wrong direction and using a really BIG hammer! That's why the spinners were usually brass or bronze. They would give up before the thread on the hub. Avoid.

You would be best off to use aircraft products to maintain the aluminium. Wadpol is a wadding for polishing ali. It is used on leading edges and props to clean and protect. Then, for outside surfaces use a special wax polish (WAX - not anything that says 'cleaner polish') Aerowax would do the job. For the unseen parts that need protection use a non-emulsifying grease. CP grease would do the job well with few applications. You might also want to look at XMP which is a spray on metal protection which forms a skin. There is also XMPx for harsher environments. Look at Light Aero for info. I'm not connected with Lightaero in any way, other than as a satisfied customer. lightaero are: here get the catalogue - more stuff than you ever knew you wanted! I found them when looking for 'torqueseal' it's a security paint which shows if fixings have been tampered with. Put a bead across the edge of nuts bolts etc, and you won't have to keep torquing them up to 'make sure' - just inspect the bead, if it's cracked or missing, the bolt is easing itself.

For a road car, I'd always choose a supercharger over a turbo. Much less heat problems and much more effective at low revs. Has the effect of making the engine act just as if it is bigger displacement. If the throttle is on the pressure side, then there's no lag problems either. The TT system is a high speed blower, and it's efficiency drops off quickly as pressures rise, which is why TT install an intercooler. I've also looked at supercharging the 'K', but will want to go the Eaton route. Heavier install, won't be so dependant on an intercooler, since it is a pressure blower. I'd prefer to mount in under the inlet. The TT pistons etc are to cope with greater heat and pressures (ISTR they have heavier crowns). Many years ago, I supercharged the 1098cc engine which I'd put in a Morris Minor. Sucked in through an 1.75 SU, spent many happy hours playing with needle shapes! Went well, never did get the stopping sorted though! Best of luck with the project.

When I was ordering some brake fluid from Demon Tweeks, I got told that the more extreme temps and usage, the more often the fluid should be changed. Extreme Racing fluids need changing more often than normal road types. So, whereas ornery stuff is OK to change every other year, SRF needs changing every year - some folks say 6 months! haha just looked at the srf data sheet: change within 18 months! edited to remove non-working link: info pasted below. Racing Brake Fluid DESCRIPTION Castrol SRF is a high performance brake fluid of special value in competitive motor sport where extreme braking conditions are encountered. It is an exclusive Castrol product registered under patents in many countries. Castrol SRF exceeds US Federal Standards FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4, ISO 4925, JIS K2233 and current SAE J 1703. APPLICATION Castrol SRF has been especially formulated to maximise braking performance under arduous competitive conditions. In order to achieve the optimum benefits in such applications, advanced materials have been employed in a unique and patented Castrol formulation. The use of Castrol SRF should be restricted to not more than eighteen months before draining and refilling for maximum efficiency. Prolonged use in excess of the recommended period may give rise to a deterioration in performance at very low temperatures. Castrol SRF is suitable for all disc and drum brake systems with the exception of those for which mineral oil is prescribed. FEATURES/BENEFITS The exceptionally high dry boiling point, (higher than 300oC) makes Castrol SRF ideal for use under arduous braking conditions such as racing or rallying. Castrol SRF has a very high vapour lock point (the more important measure of high temperature performance under actual braking conditions), and has the additional advantage of sustaining high vapour lock point characteristics during its service life. The compressibility of Castrol SRF is very similar to that of current DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. It can, therefore, be filled into any non-mineral oil braking system. Castrol SRF is miscible with all conventional fluids meeting US Federal Standards FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4, ISO 4925 and current J 1703. However, mixing Castrol SRF and conventional brake fluids will merely reduce the higher quality of Castrol SRF. It is, therefore, recommended that conventional brake fluids be drained from the system before flushing and refilling with Castrol SRF. PERFORMANCE SAE J1703 FMVSS 116 DOT 3/4 TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS Density at 20ºC 1.065 Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 19 Jan 2005 18:55:20 Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 19 Jan 2005 18:59:29

Try an elastic strap to hold your glasses firmly onto your head, you will find the nose bruising is reduced as well

Partial success - but I'm NOT impressed. The supplier of these was Cats Direct - part of the Autospares Group in Nottingham. I wrote to the MD on 6th - he would have got it on 7th, I also emailed him this morning - pointing him to the pictures. I've had no response so far. The second hand unit was delivered to their mail order dept yesterday at 08:30 (marvellous these DHL trackers) I didn't hear from them so I rang at 4:00 yesterday: "We've had a power cut, haven't looked at any returns at all - please ring back tomorrow" I rang at lunch time, minion promised that the man that deals with returns will ring me back. 4:00 I get fed up waiting and ring again. "Oh yes, I've got it - replacement should( 🤔) be sent out tonight" "What about the one I sent back, it didn't look new - what's the story there?" "Oh well, garages often return stuff they haven't used, so sometimes they have fingerprints on them" "Fingerprints??? It looks more as if someone's bodged it up!" "Well I don't want to discuss it, I'm perfectly happy to send it out again" So far - no apology, no reply from MD, dismissed me as a numpty. No I wont be dealing with cats-direct, Sutton Auto Factors or Autospares Group again.

I'm giving the suppliers a few days to redeem themselves for sending me two dud'ns. I wrote to the MD 1st Class last Thursday, and they will get the 'rough one' back tomorrow, it was collected today. Then we will have to sort out the fact that the first one suffered a mechanical failure (it fell apart) after 50 miles or so. Normally you never get anything back on a used cat - it will always be the user's fault somehow ☹️. However, after only 50 miles, it can't be down to a fuelling problem, so they will probably say I've fitted it with a club hammer. Anyway, I won't name until I feel I need to protect others - and by then I'll be really

I'm not sure, but if your 'plipper' is making the immobiliser light go out, and the car is only running for about 10secs before stopping.... Then I would guess that the immobiliser and the ECU are not 'aligned'. This can be corrected by anyone with a Rover diagnostic tool. Caterham Cars - or a Rover dealer.

I've had a problem with the supply quality of a new exhaust catalyst. Please have a look here and tell me if I'm right to reject the replacement item. here

Panic over - it's an exhaust baffle. Everso noisy Everso irritating since it's all new ☹️

My new EU2 VVC (yes, unlikely but true) has been started and run at idle for about an hour. No problems.. Today (SVA on Tuesday) I ran the car down a private road for the first time. Suddenly..there is an almighty rattle. It sounds as if there's a nut and bolt in a tin drum. It is a very loud rattle, mostly at idle. The noise appears to be in the exhaust system, but it sounds as if there is something running around the flywheel/ring gear. It is NOISY!!! One suggestion I have had, is that the bolt holding the front inlet cam timing wheel may work loose and generate this fantastic rattle as the pulley slaps about on its' keyway. The noise apparantly resonates all round the engine and makes it hard to trace. Anyone heard of this before?