Joe 90

Should be OK as you are pocketing the pistons (essential for clearance). I'm assuming you are getting a kit which includes valve springs. I would add steel rocker posts to the list. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

Greg, Changing TRE is in theory fairly simple. What's not obvious until you try is that the attachment to the steering arm is a taper fit, so you usually need a ball joint breaker to free it up. A search on techtalk will also reveal some alternative techniques using hammers. I'm sure you will remember to copper-ease the taper on reassembly. Once you have the new one fitted, you will need to set the tracking (AKA toe-in). Changing the A frame bush is also fairly simple, and worth learning as you may well have to do it more than once. The tricky bit is compressing the bush so that it fits between the brackets on the axle. Again, a techtalk search and a look around the 7faq site is worthwhile. Remember, we all had to do it for the first time too SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

It's difficult to get enough tension into the belt. If you can move the belt up or down by about than an inch then it's about right. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

After swapping the pump I discovered it was low on oil 😳 SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

I would try starting it on a steady one quarter throttle when hot. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

Sorry to say they are different. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

LOL. As it's a bank holiday I understand that you can get a good deal on a new sofa at various retail outlets. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

A trick learnt on knackered old MGs is to stick it into first whilst stationary before going into reverse. This counteracts clutch drag so that the reverse cogs are all stopped. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

Some/many/most (I'm not up to speed any more) cars don't have syncro on reverse, others do. I think the japs were first to introduce it, and it might have become more common. Adding syncro to reverse increases the gearbox losses, so there are good reasons for keeping the old 'crash' arragement. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

Nowt wrong with power On the other hand careful suspension setup is a cheaper way of making the car faster. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

The question is, what are you trying to achieve? If it's "most bang for your buck", there are a number of cost effective options, some of which can be combined. 1. Rebore and new pistons. I can't think of any reason not to go to 1700cc in that case, as the cost is much the same irrespective of the size of overbore. 2. Forged pistons. These give more power and are essential if you hope to exceed 135 bhp at any stage. 3. Hairy cam. A 244 is sufficiently tractable in a car as light as a seven, but is more expensive than a 234 because you need to machine the spring seats. Either cam will need the pistons machined for valve clearance. 4. Ported big valve head. You'll need to do this at some stage anyway, but bear in mind the issue of spring seats. 5. 4 into 1 exhaust. Is that any help? SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

Roger King will doubtless be along to tell you that the standard ones are better for high rpm, but I think he means at 8000 rpm and more. They are no quieter than standard, but I like them because they take the side loads off the valves and the wear rate drops right down. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

I don't know if it's easy, but I once had an exhaust made with stainless tubes and mild steel flanges. It's possible. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

The burrs on the valves are quite common. I suggest filing them off (or using wet and dry), although if you replacing the guides anyway you could try pressing them through. As you will have to remove the burrs before refitting, I wouldn't risk it. To press the guides out you will need a suitable drift and a large vice. I would suggest bronze guides (available from Burtons and the like), as I think most of the others are rubbish. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

It's only 129kg with all the ancilliaries. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan