sjwb

Couple of points here. Years ago manufacturers produced machined finishes the equal of today. Whether (sic) engine specilaists did is questionable. In fact I would go as far as to say categorically not 😳. I'll say it again. If this so called running in procedure is so critical why oh why do manufacturers make no mention of special oils 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 Irrespective of oil used, chrome faced top, or compression rings, will be difficult to bed-in (let's use the correct term) so the ring manufacturers tend to use a coating on the ring which is for want of a better word abrasive. In the first few minutes of the engine's life the rings actually wear very rapidly to present complete radial contact with the bore. Remeber, bore finish is not required to be smooth, it must retain oil to lubricate the rings and piston. Glazing bores is nothing whatever to do with the type of oil used; it is a function of how an engine is used or designed. Years ago, Kawasaki had a problem on the Z1000J with oil consumption. It was traced to glazed bores, caused by a combination of riders pussyfooting and an incompatible bore finish and ring profile. The cure 🤔 Strip the motor, glaze-bust the bores, rebuild take it out and thrash the tits off it. So, if I appear peeved it's because the "I was only repeating what I had been told" becomes urban legend and ultimately fact. I wonder how Porsche engine ever run in when they OE use synthetic oil. Perhaps Redline could help them develop power units! Whether anyone takes any notice is up to them, but I can assure you that my intentions are entirely altrusitic . Steve B

Always remove the negative lead first (black). It is a good idea to disconnect this one lead when using a rapid charger but not necessary with a trickle or conditioner device. Not to mention of course that 'ordinary' battery chargers are half wave rectified and present a dirty potential; not harmful to the battery but death to control modules and the like. Notionally there is a diode in the regulator pack to stop interferance from a charger etc. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 6 Dec 2002 09:24:09

This is rather aggravating. Do you ever hear of manufacturers using running in oil? Porsche, Jaguar, Aston. No I thought not. So why do we constantly get such response to repeated lubrication related questions? Especially when relevant to fairly ordinary engines. Perhaps this is why Caterham make no mention! I believe that the oil-man put to bed many issues a couple of months ago. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 6 Dec 2002 09:22:14

Couple of interesting points here . Doesn't everyone drive with their lights on 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 Which incidently doesn't work to clear condensation. Yes, drilling is the best method - just be careful - a 2 or 3mm hole in the base of the instrument. Again this is not completely successful but it does help. Steve B

Ade, Glad you found Heathcote. They have done work for me in the past and have always complied with my wishes ie what clearance to achieve by grinding to an agreed size. As for cleaning, if you must do it at home, then use GUNK. Stinks like buggery but nothing else is as good; forget Jizer and all that stuff. Make sure you clean thouroughly by blowing all passages with compressed air. Just to pre-empt, compressors are very cheap these days with a 8 cfm unit being available for £140 or so. One more thing, after a crank regrind or boring operation, wash in very soapy water - it is the only thing to liberate the swarf in the oilways and surfaces. Steve B

Ade, Go to Heathcote Engineering (I think); anyway they are off the Rugby Road on your left going towards Warwick near Strathearn Road. They will sell you all of your parts and advise of the best way forward. Steve B

Do be aware of the possibility of engine fumes entering the cockpit. Steve B

Never heard of a nut splitter obviously Steve B

Granteuk, I do hope that you don't have a catalyst fitted *eek*. Andy, On a well set up engine, with good quality fuels, there is absolutely no need for such products to be used. Steve B

Mmmmmmmm, 145hp is nearer the 'raw data' mark. Steve B

Nah, but I can tell you how to spell GAITER 😬. Steve B

Steve, Firstly, don't ever re-use bearings. Try a company like Bearing Services Ltd and quote them the number off the bearing race and only use top quality parts. It is absolutely critical that the cones are fitted hard against their abutment Rotate the CW gear until you find the least backlash and use this position to set the backlash from. Too little, or no backlash will kill the gears. To set the preload you can try the torque method, after having acertained the torque required to rotate the pinion (continuous rotation not that which is required to start it); the best of luck . Steve B

Don't drill it! Use a Q Max cutter. Steve B

Steve, I wrote this some time ago. I appreciate that the first part is not relevant (assuming all is well in the unit) and I am not undermining any skills tha you may have. But do be careful. To change the gear-set you need to set the pinion height to plus or minus 0,0005" of a figure you will never learn and for this you need a parallel of the correct diameter, a dummy pinion (optional) and a set of slip gauges. Now you need to regulate the pinion pre-load. Depending on the type of bearing set, this may be a crush washer or shims; either way, special tools are required to hold the pinion flange and measure the rotational torque. Not to mention of course getting the bearings on and off whilst using the handling procedures that experience and training impart. On to the difficult bit. It is also the following that will apply if you are just fitting an LSD and not the complete gear-set. To set the crown wheel relative to the pinion (having got the depth of engagement correct) we need to adjust the backlash and diff box bearing preload. This is the skillful bit - believe me. A) Because there is always run out on the diff box to confuse the issue (crown wheel mounting face). B) The bearing preload adjustment has a profound affect on the backlash and so it becomes a juggling act. To judge the attained preload by observed turning torque is difficult enough and to assess it as a combination of the two (torques) is nigh on impossible. Experience and or tooling again. Get it wrong (as you surely will) and at best you will have a noisy diff. At the worst? A seized unit which hopefully won't wreck the car. This is not meant to demean, or imply stupidity, merely to point out that there are some skills that are very special and cannot be learned on a one-off basis. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 22 Oct 2002 22:37:02

If it is BSP then the major diameter will be .383 (9.728 mm) with a pitch of 28 tpi and thread angle of 55 degrees. Just a little something I picked up 😬 Steve B

Graham, If the pistons hit the oil you have are really ini it . The issue is the crank dipping into the oil and throwing it up the cylinder walls etc; refered to as 'windage' in the normal sense of the word. Seals are no more likely to leak because of excess oil, more a case of oil being forced out of the breather system (whether it be closed or open). In short, don't overfill. Steve B

Thanks for your response AMMO. I have made contact with said group and I believe that one person has shown an interest. Steve B

I am acting on behalf of a friend who's son has just passed away. He would like to sell his son's motorcycle, a bit speciallized in that it is a Laverda Cropredy Liberator circa 1981. In other words a limited edition Jota - modified by a dealer and I believe one of seven made. The bike is in absolutely tip top condition. If you, or anyone that you may know is interested please contact me whereupon further details will be provided. This bike is very special and very rare; there is comprehensive documentation to accompany the machine. tel 07736 666847 Steve B

More specifically, it is a nylon sleeve type bush which is secured in the outer column tube. There is an archive thread concerning its renewal. Steve B

I posted this a while ago. You may find it useful - especially the last sentence. If I remember correctly the damper button should have 0.002 / 0.004 endfloat. This needs to be measured along the complete used length of the rack in order to avoid preload (binding). The damper spring will keep the contact of the pinion and rack only to alieviate rack knock (not really relevant to a Seven. The bottom line, as correctly mention previously, is to avoid binding. By the way, one of the best rack lubricants is EP140 - yes 140, at about a 1/4 of a pint. Steve B

996 engine between the axles 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 Steve B

Gareth, you may wish to consider the following as posted previously: Please, please do not overtighten the bearings, the cups will be locally brinelled and possibly ridged. The correct method (with the brakes out of contact) is to seat the assembly by simultaneously rotating the hub and tightening slowly to about 8Nm. Back off the adjusting nut to give 0.002 / 0.004 END FLOAT. The tolerance will give you the opportunity to find an appropriate split pin location. Rock at the wheel rim is an inaccurate method, use a DTI on the stub axle. There is a caveat to this in that with disc brakes, pad knock back can be an issue - so you may reduce the end float to ZERO (that must be an oxymoron!), but do not preload taper roller bearings in this application. Steve B

Years ago when I were a lad every single Hillman Imp (cue peels of laughter) that was parked up ready for despatch, seized its clutch. I must have freed hundreds. The starting off technique was not very elegant - but was effective. Get the motor warm, switch off, put it in first, turn the key and catch it as it fires. Kangaroo up the road and do the business. Incidently, I have driven cars home with failed clutch release mechanisms using said take-off technique. Steve B

Oxford do a good dictionary. GAUGES 😬 Steve B

DON'T do it on stands. If it falls off you are right in it. Drive it on a clear road, clutch down and brake hard. If you can apply throttle at the same time it helps. Steve B