sjwb
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Everything posted by sjwb
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Almost certainly because it has an hydraulic timing chain tensioner. Pumped out with main gallery pressure and prevented from collapsing by a simple ratchet mechanism. The feed hole is minute, usually less than 1 mm dia. So you see, a little dirt will block it up and away with the rattles we go. Odd about the change frequency, because Hillman Avengers had such a system and they caused no trouble - the rest of the car did though ☹️ Steve B
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Ade, If you were using metric allen keys then there may be your answer. I thought that your block had Unified threads, meaning that you will need an Imperial meaurement allen key. Tip: The Across Flats dimension is stamped on one of the flats of the key ie 1/4" A/F or 6mm A/F. Steve B
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Bike computer with cadence on it? Steve B
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Let the punishment fit the crime. Lock the bastards up for 20 years. *mad* *mad* Of course that's if the Feds can be arsed to find the perps. Steve B
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Just a thought. With the propensity for K series cooling system problems, perhaps these products could be mandatory ❗ Edited by - sjwb on 30 Aug 2002 12:32:12
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Oh dear, some ill informed comment here then BarsLeak and associated products are not 'arse' and do not block up cooling systems. Obviously a system without loss is the ideal, but there are instances of mysterious coolant losses where these products are appropriate. Steve B
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Chuck the bloody thing in the bin where it belongs!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, and prior to the "you can't" mates, I've never seen a motorcycle with a heatshield. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 22 Aug 2002 21:47:19
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Bang on Septimus, Love 'em to bits. In fact I am looking after my son's whilst he is on holiday. I am afraid I've just got to get another. 😬 Drop me an email if you want to discuss, without upsetting the non-cognicentti! Steve B
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Try the babelfish translator here. Steve B
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Ah, so that's why it happens. Steve B
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By the way is there a breather mod to be had 🤔 Edited by - sjwb on 14 Aug 2002 11:30:10
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Paul, On that subject. Aren't they a twat to fill! Mine drives me nuts and to compound the problem it varies from pump to pump. Steve B
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FF, Spot on! After running the tyres in and attacking some of my favourite roads it became apparent that the suspension was having a hard time of it. The tendancy to 'tramline' seems greater. I suspect that the whole lot needs looking at; springs, dampers and roll bars. This is simply to align the suspension settings with the much stiffer side walls of the 021 (compared to those awful Avon ZVs that were fitted previously). Let me add the rider to this; my car is Roadsport spec and that may not have any relevance to your condition. Either way 021 tyres will provide a massive benefit to your car, but you should prepare for the consequences 😬. Steve B
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I'm surprised it got there . 36mm A/F Steve B
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Just reminded me . I had four A021Rs fitted to loose wheels at the weekend by George Polley. Top bloke - what a twat to find . £242 inc everything. The best bit is how the car has been transformed . GRIP 🤔 Never known anything like it. There have been negative trade-offs but that is another story. Steve B
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DohNut, The springy thing is a cush-drive. A set of rubber type buffers interspersed between the drive sprocket and wheel center. Sadly most of the 140+ hp bikes tend to destroy them - Kawasaki especially. I would imagine that the sprockets and transmission components would suffer but not the engine. As for the propshaft the correct term is RUT or 'Rutted', yes seriously. The RUT stands for Rubber Up Tube (that was a shock wasn't it)? They DO NOT work on high torque applications and are poor where refinement is required, There is a tendancy to shear, whip and run out of balance. Now, where a Se7en is concerned the refinement issue is not a consideration - as for the shear? Well who can say? Steve B
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Anyone got any bright ideas on getting oil out of carpet?
sjwb replied to I reply to every thread's topic in TechTalk
And by the time you have done all of this, you may as well buy a new carpet. Steve B -
I am certain that a car mag did exactly that some time ago. EVO perhaps 🤔 Steve B
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Assuming that the std rack and the 'quick' one are the same, please see the following. I posted this a while ago. You may find it useful - especially the last sentence. If I remember correctly the damper button should have 0.002 / 0.004 endfloat. This needs to be measured along the complete used length of the rack in order to avoid preload (binding). The damper spring will keep the contact of the pinion and rack only to alieviate rack knock (not really relevant to a Seven. The bottom line, as correctly mention previously, is to avoid binding. By the way, one of the best rack lubricants is EP140 - yes 140, at about a 1/4 of a pint. In essence a bronze damper is not required - careful adjustment and suitable lubrication is the answer. Steve B
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Paul, So you don't need the mirror then 🤔 Quotes, OED. Professional (N) - a person working or performing for payment. Please note the spelling. Engineer (N) - a person who is skilled in a branch of engineering. Trade (N) - a skilled craft practised to earn a living. No, free of affectation, I are a engineer! Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 6 Aug 2002 14:43:02
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Tom, You missed the point - it was the idiot who built the car that I was having a go at. Being an engineer by trade, my solution was perfectly sound. Paul, Same as a Rivnut. A deformable thin walled metal sleeve into which a machine thread is formed. Specifically designed for sheet metal. If your still stuck for a mirror I have one, email me. Steve B
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Tom, See below for a previous rant of mine. If you repair it as I did be VERY careful. Put a sheet of steel behind the fixing and be absolutely on the center of the screws. Picture this. A broken rear hi-intensity rear lamp. How to remove? Firstly detach the lens, but where are the body fixings? Oh, through from the inner (fuel tank) side of the rear panel. How in God’s name do they come out? Ah, remove the fuel tank to access two M6 screws, easy. The experts know the answer to that one I bet. Dare I say Avdel again? Of course I did not do the fuel tank thing, but the drilling down the center of the screws was very fraught – one slip and one punctured fuel tank. All that was required in the first place was appropriate fixings - AVDEL nuts. Steve B
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If it continues with 'hey hey hey goodbye', it's trying to sing an old pop song 😬 Steve B
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Rob is quite correct, vary speed and load without holding a steady state. There is of course the motorcyclists way of looking at things - thrash the tits of it from the word go! Not my recommendation I might add, but I would say it is far more important to 'run' yourself into the bike and give the brakes and suspension time to bed. The transmission and engine will look after themselves. Enjoy. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 3 Aug 2002 21:38:24
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Steering column grommet 🤔 Steve B