debushau

Spoke to customer support at Outlaw - the pads I have are much too aggressive (PF01) - will switch to something lighter and see how that works. Shane

I am experiencing a tendency for the passenger side wheel to lock before the driver side - I have recently changed from stock front brakes to the Outlaw/Bremsport calipers. I've bled the brakes a few times (using the Motive pressure bleeder - very nice - traditional method). I have a bit more travel with the stock master cylinder but it's progressive enough. New set of James Whiting drilled discs with very little mileage so warpage shouldn't be an issue. Could this be a bedding in problem or something more exotic? Shane Edited by - debushau on 2 Sep 2003 20:21:42

I suppose there's also Electromotive - have no idea whether they're good, bad or indifferent but it's a lower cost alternative to Motec/Pectel. http://www.electromotive-inc.com/index.html

I just put this setup on my car over the weekend and opted for 12.9 metric caphead bolts and nylocs. Shane

I have seen the "stronger" tie raps with the stainless steel teeth - maybe it's work having a go at that, they're supposed to hold to 60 lb/ft. The replacement band-it clip I picked up is even more confusing than the first as it does not have the hammer down ears and I'm not entirely sure I have the right tool for it. thanks, Shane

I have to replace the clamp on the cv joint boot on one of the driveshafts of my Caterham. The original clamp appears to be a style that requires a crimp. From the local parts store, I have come up with something called a "band-it" that it applied with a special tool, the band is folded back and then the ears hammered down. I tried the "band-it" once but it's slimmer than the original and with all the grease, it's hard to put on straight. It didn't work very well. Any recommendations on clamps - and the correct way to attach them? I wanted to avoid having to pull out the shaft, but if that's the only way I can reliably do this, I'll get out the impact gun for the big nut! thanks, Shane

I had the same problem recently with my oil pressure gauge, I too swtiched to Spa gauges and am pleased with the results. I've heard that the Caerbont senders are not that reliable. Pressure rating on the Spa senders (240psi) is much higher.

When I went to mount the switch it seemed to me to look a bit odd to mount the flip cover upside down. I was just wondering what the standard was so I didn't look like a clod - if there's no standard in aircraft use then maybe it's a matter of choice. I don't want to accidentally turn it on or turn it off either. Shane

I have a question about the orientation of toggle switches. I am installing an additional switch for an oil accumulator device in my Caterham and was considering the correct orientation for the switch. I notice that the rest of the switches on the car are set up to turn on in the "down" position. The switch for the device I am installing has a flip cover for the switch and it appears that it would work better if "on" was in the up position. Obviously it is an easy thing to rotate the switch but I was wondering if anyone has given thought to there being a standard in this respect. In this application, it probably makes sense to match the other switches. thanks, Shane

Thanks for the help, I have the same cam package, though RMSC reckon that it makes nowhere near 175hp- so much for advertising! Which intake port and ECU are you eyeing? Shane

I'll give that a go next time I go to its winter storage. You just spliced a ground into the ground wire leading to the connector? I guess since I'll never need the connector, I could just hack if off. The car will, on occasion, fire and it worked just fine last summer for 3 months but since then seems to run only when it feels like it. I would be delighted if this is the solution. If this is an issue Caterham USA should be aware of it - I had spoken to them last year and got the distinct impression that this dangling bit did nothing. Plus, I don't really understand why they use an auto box ECU. Shane Edited by - debushau on 13 Jan 2003 18:13:36

Magnus, I use the 98BB-BXA ECU. There is a dangling speedometer sensor that Caterham said was unused, I think it's the speedometer to ECU connection - apparently Caterham just wire the speedo directly to the hall sensor so this piece of the harness is not used. That's about the only thing - apart from the usual evap canister error - but it's hooked up. Shane

I have a US spec Caterham 7 with a 2.0 Zetec and I am becoming frustrated with a continual electrical problem that a persisted over the past few months that I have been unable to remedy. When I originally put the car together, I had lots of problems getting the computer to switch on - in the end I think it was a case of not tightening up the screw on the connector and the computer came into life. This worked fine for a few months until the car began to cut out while driving just for an instant (this was the subject of a prior email). I tightened up this connector again and shook some wires and the car seemed to be ok again. After a week or two the computer refused to come on at all. After checking the connections for the umpteenth time, I opted to plug in a used pcm (direct swap - same model number). After hooking up the new computer, the car started again and all was well with the world until I visited the car last weekend (in its winter storage) and the same old problem - no characteristic "bleep" from the computer, the starter turns but no spark,fuel pressure is there. I am trying to figure out what this might be - my guess is that the pcm is probably ok (and the original is ok too), perhaps it could be an ignition problem (though the starter turns?). The obd II code checker I have cannot connect with the computer. I have taken the cover off the harness connector are there are no loose wires apparent (though there are 50 or so and if one was pulled out a bit, I'd never know). Any suggestions? thanks, Shane

I took a look at the wheel and noticed that little dimple. That should do the trick in helping to line it up. Countersunk bolts a good idea. Santa just needs to bring me a drill press.

I bought a Momo wheel from Caterham with a standard boss recently. Bought it from Caterham by mail order under the erroneous assumption that it would be pre-drilled - otherwise I could have saved myself a few by getting it elsewhere. Now that I have the wheel I am wondering what's the best way of determining the wheel's centre and ensuring that I don't mess up the drilling. I imagine a drill press would be wiser that a hand held. Is it good practice to put washers under the screw heads?