debushau

Spoke to customer support at Outlaw - the pads I have are much too aggressive (PF01) - will switch to something lighter and see how that works. Shane

I am experiencing a tendency for the passenger side wheel to lock before the driver side - I have recently changed from stock front brakes to the Outlaw/Bremsport calipers. I've bled the brakes a few times (using the Motive pressure bleeder - very nice - traditional method). I have a bit more travel with the stock master cylinder but it's progressive enough. New set of James Whiting drilled discs with very little mileage so warpage shouldn't be an issue. Could this be a bedding in problem or something more exotic? Shane Edited by - debushau on 2 Sep 2003 20:21:42

I suppose there's also Electromotive - have no idea whether they're good, bad or indifferent but it's a lower cost alternative to Motec/Pectel. http://www.electromotive-inc.com/index.html

I just put this setup on my car over the weekend and opted for 12.9 metric caphead bolts and nylocs. Shane

I have seen the "stronger" tie raps with the stainless steel teeth - maybe it's work having a go at that, they're supposed to hold to 60 lb/ft. The replacement band-it clip I picked up is even more confusing than the first as it does not have the hammer down ears and I'm not entirely sure I have the right tool for it. thanks, Shane

I have to replace the clamp on the cv joint boot on one of the driveshafts of my Caterham. The original clamp appears to be a style that requires a crimp. From the local parts store, I have come up with something called a "band-it" that it applied with a special tool, the band is folded back and then the ears hammered down. I tried the "band-it" once but it's slimmer than the original and with all the grease, it's hard to put on straight. It didn't work very well. Any recommendations on clamps - and the correct way to attach them? I wanted to avoid having to pull out the shaft, but if that's the only way I can reliably do this, I'll get out the impact gun for the big nut! thanks, Shane

I had the same problem recently with my oil pressure gauge, I too swtiched to Spa gauges and am pleased with the results. I've heard that the Caerbont senders are not that reliable. Pressure rating on the Spa senders (240psi) is much higher.

When I went to mount the switch it seemed to me to look a bit odd to mount the flip cover upside down. I was just wondering what the standard was so I didn't look like a clod - if there's no standard in aircraft use then maybe it's a matter of choice. I don't want to accidentally turn it on or turn it off either. Shane

I have a question about the orientation of toggle switches. I am installing an additional switch for an oil accumulator device in my Caterham and was considering the correct orientation for the switch. I notice that the rest of the switches on the car are set up to turn on in the "down" position. The switch for the device I am installing has a flip cover for the switch and it appears that it would work better if "on" was in the up position. Obviously it is an easy thing to rotate the switch but I was wondering if anyone has given thought to there being a standard in this respect. In this application, it probably makes sense to match the other switches. thanks, Shane

Thanks for the help, I have the same cam package, though RMSC reckon that it makes nowhere near 175hp- so much for advertising! Which intake port and ECU are you eyeing? Shane

I'll give that a go next time I go to its winter storage. You just spliced a ground into the ground wire leading to the connector? I guess since I'll never need the connector, I could just hack if off. The car will, on occasion, fire and it worked just fine last summer for 3 months but since then seems to run only when it feels like it. I would be delighted if this is the solution. If this is an issue Caterham USA should be aware of it - I had spoken to them last year and got the distinct impression that this dangling bit did nothing. Plus, I don't really understand why they use an auto box ECU. Shane Edited by - debushau on 13 Jan 2003 18:13:36

Magnus, I use the 98BB-BXA ECU. There is a dangling speedometer sensor that Caterham said was unused, I think it's the speedometer to ECU connection - apparently Caterham just wire the speedo directly to the hall sensor so this piece of the harness is not used. That's about the only thing - apart from the usual evap canister error - but it's hooked up. Shane

I have a US spec Caterham 7 with a 2.0 Zetec and I am becoming frustrated with a continual electrical problem that a persisted over the past few months that I have been unable to remedy. When I originally put the car together, I had lots of problems getting the computer to switch on - in the end I think it was a case of not tightening up the screw on the connector and the computer came into life. This worked fine for a few months until the car began to cut out while driving just for an instant (this was the subject of a prior email). I tightened up this connector again and shook some wires and the car seemed to be ok again. After a week or two the computer refused to come on at all. After checking the connections for the umpteenth time, I opted to plug in a used pcm (direct swap - same model number). After hooking up the new computer, the car started again and all was well with the world until I visited the car last weekend (in its winter storage) and the same old problem - no characteristic "bleep" from the computer, the starter turns but no spark,fuel pressure is there. I am trying to figure out what this might be - my guess is that the pcm is probably ok (and the original is ok too), perhaps it could be an ignition problem (though the starter turns?). The obd II code checker I have cannot connect with the computer. I have taken the cover off the harness connector are there are no loose wires apparent (though there are 50 or so and if one was pulled out a bit, I'd never know). Any suggestions? thanks, Shane

I took a look at the wheel and noticed that little dimple. That should do the trick in helping to line it up. Countersunk bolts a good idea. Santa just needs to bring me a drill press.

I bought a Momo wheel from Caterham with a standard boss recently. Bought it from Caterham by mail order under the erroneous assumption that it would be pre-drilled - otherwise I could have saved myself a few by getting it elsewhere. Now that I have the wheel I am wondering what's the best way of determining the wheel's centre and ensuring that I don't mess up the drilling. I imagine a drill press would be wiser that a hand held. Is it good practice to put washers under the screw heads?

I bought a heater from Vintage Air - an American outfit - they make very compact heaters and a/c systems for hot rods. The "Compac" unit is much smaller than the stock Caterham one and comes with various tubes so that the air can be directed to demist, etc. However, after all this, I decided that it wasn't worth fitting as I prefer the the cold chill down my spine on a windy morning.

I rerouted the secondary grounding strap and I thought that was doing the trick until the car was idling one afternoon and then cut out again. I noticed that when I turned the car off and tried to crank it again I was getting no computer "beep". Tried turning it on and off again and after a while I got the "beep" back and the car fired up. When I was originally finishing off the car, I had lots of problems getting the computer to switch on - although the harness seems well screwed into the ECU (Ford) it seemed not to be tight enough. At the time I was convinced it was a duff ECU. After so many attempts at tightening the thing up I think the brass screw may be losing some of its thread. The location of the harness is right under the plastic manifold so it's a pain to get at. Anyway, I think this may be the cause of the problem.

I will take another look at the earth - there may be a better place to ground the engine that the spots I have chosen. Or perhaps a large diameter than the 4 gauge wire I am using. I just have a stock Ford ECU but I do have a code reader - that may tell me a thing or two if I can put the two together. I thought it might not be electrical because the starter turned over during the fail condition but the engine wasn't firing. Shane

I have a Zetec-engined Caterham 7 (US-spec with 2.0L). The last few times I have taken it out, it has had this unusual drop-off of power. Typically I'm driving away and for a split second the rev needle goes to zero and I have no power, then the power just comes back. On one occasion I was in a parking lot and it did it's conk-out routine and I had to turn the engine over a few times to get it started. I have not had a chance to get the codes but I was inclined to think it might be fuel supply related. I previously had a cut-out condition that I traced to a bad ground. Any ideas on what this could be? Edited by - debushau on 9 Sep 2002 23:26:02

Must make a note to inform passengers that the smell is emanating from cat not self. And I thought it was just the country air!

I have not considered the alternator - it is a rotten egg smell, sort of salty. As I am running a nice Optima dry cell battery, I'd rather it was not fried. But then, it is a completely sealed battery so I really should not be smelling any thing from it. Does the Zetec have a built in regulator? Can this be tested in situ? I should probably start with the OBD II codes and see what that comes up with. Edited by - debushau on 1 Jul 2002 22:08:25

I do have a catalyst - on a lhd car, it's just about where I can touch it at the start of the exhaust box. So it seems like I'll just have to live with it.

I have a 2.0l Zetec engined Caterham which has very few miles on the clock but one thing I have noticed is that when I push up above 5000rpm, there is a distinct whiff of sulphur in the air. Is this a problem with the fuel I am using? I put some mid-grade fuel in there (89 octane or so), it should run on the low grade 87 octane without any problem. It did not smell like burnt oil or coolant. Should I be concerned that something more serious is awry?

Removal of the heater creates a nice bit of space under the dashboard - has anyone out there fabricated a lockable compartment to store bits and pieces under there? The wiring loom is the only thing in the way. Shane

When I fitted the FIA cage to my car - I asked the Caterham dealer whether I needed to put in these bolts - he replied that they were not needed (even though it clearly says otherwise in the manual). He may well have been motivated by the fact that I had been supplied the wrong roll bar and was not in the mood to wait 6 weeks for a new one before fitting the rear suspension.