Apothecary

Hi Tony, Can you put me down for the SV CF aeroscreen kit (incl mirrors) please and I’ll message you. Paul

Thanks, that’s really useful to know 👍

Hi, I’m now looking at Aeroscreen options myself. Can anyone who has recently fitted the Meteor clear screen confirm what drilling is required (not including mirrors as I will be attaching those to the track day cage). Is it just the two holes in the bracket for the two poppers or do you also have to drill the screen itself to attach the central bracket to it? I used to have a RIF carbon screen, with my old CSR, and I’m familiar with the Caterham version, but not this clear screen. thanks,

Email sent as requested Jason, Thanks,

Hi, Sent a PM about another set when available please

Please put me down too. Thanks Paul

Thank you

#6 not sure if the question was directed to me or others but for clarity, my reason for removal is because I wish to now use the car on the public road for which I will need a valid MOT certificate and a cat fitted. The Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations (Regulations 61(7) and 61A(3)) and the Road Traffic Act 1988 (Section 42) applies to use on the public road which a track is not of course. Thanks again for advice on the mechanical aspects to those who have contributed.

Thanks for the helpful comments. Does anyone have a link to a suitable antiseize compound?

Typical! After posting I just went to have another go and it came straight off

It's time I need to put my original cat and it's silencer back on. Having removed the current Raceco silencer (plus the two spring clips connecting the current bypass pipe that's connected to the primaries), I'm now struggling to get the bypass free. I have soaked the four pipes at the joints in penetrating fluid and left for 24hrs to try and ease things but they are still not budging. Any tips on how to free things sufficiently to pull the bypass pipe off? Thanks

That’s very comprehensive Simon and I’m sure helpful to all. My ‘done up nice and tight’ was not using a torque wrench but, like you, done by ‘feel’ as I’m always cautious with aluminium and rivnuts not to over stress. I regularly check fixings like this anyway so I’m content with how it’s all been installed. Having driven the car for a couple of two hour sessions on Sunday (great Open day at PGM by the way) it was clear my co pilot did need to have the seat slightly closer and if I’m honest it would have been slightly more comfortable for me too towards the end (slightly overstretched arms and leg syndrome). So, I ordered the TR1 adjustable runners and have just spent a good two hours trying to get the right fitting of the drivers seat. Unfortunately the TR1 uses the same unhelpful approach of a bolt through the floor from above which means lots of cursing when you can’t quite reach underneath and above at the same time (exhaust not helping) and the runners don’t quite align with the holes in the floor (again) and not wanting to over enlarge anything. A second pair of hands made it quicker and less painful. Anyway, it’s in and it’s much better! I can confirm that on an SV car the handle on the adjuster does not foul the cross member in front of the seat PROVIDED you don’t have the seat all the way forward ( lowered floors). It’s also a higher quality runner than the standard item. I have been dealing with Nationwide as supplier of the seats and fittings and they have been superb. Efficient, friendly and very professional, so thanks to them for a prompt service (24hrs turnaround).

Charlie, Several years ago I had a Petty Strut fitted to my first 7 and not feeling confident that I wouldn’t make a hash of it I entrusted it to James Whiting http://www.jameswhiting.com/index.html He clearly knows his way around a 7 and knows exactly what to do.As you are not far from James it might also be an option for you? Paul

Yes Simon, the box section is fitted with Rivnuts so that’s much easier than fiddling with the caphead bolts from above while trying to tighten a nut from below. Paul

Thanks to both EB and Simon for their advice. Simon, your comprehensive reply was very helpful and I appreciate the trouble you went to. In the end I decided to go for the fixed set up on both sides for weight saving and the fact that both my son and I have pretty much the same seating position. I also found that the adjustable rail didn't actually fit the B6XL (the pre drilled hole spacing in the rail is not in the correct place for the 2018 model year seat it seems) so I needed to exchange the one I had ordered and which had already been delivered for a second set of the fixed position aluminium brackets - which doesn't have the same issue as there is a 'slotted' hole to accomodate sufficiently for adjustment. Anyway, with help of the CC parts dept I quickly had what I needed and proceeded to fit the new seats. Thankfully I had plenty of Tillets spacers to hand as I needed several to ensure the brackets both cleared the bottom of the seat and I had the right seating angle. I did have to slightly reposition the holes in the floor to accomodate everything but by very little. If anyone is doing this afresh you will need two packs of spacers. Everything is now securely in place and done up nice and tight. The B6XL (with cut sides)fits perfectly in an SV chassis car and because the holes for the belts are bigger you thankfully don't have to dismantle the belt fixings as they can just be fed through. The seating position is lower and I feel much more 'in the car' than 'on it' now without jeopardising my view (of the nearside front wheel). If they are anything like my old CSR CF Tillets they are going to be extremely comfortable too. Hopefully out at the weekend to try them out properly rather than just sitting in the garage