murph7355

Bonnet please. And what about a scuttle with an aeroscreen moulded into it?

Definitely up for some carbon ones.

Have used twin sock varieties. PiperX currently and the engine works fine and sounds nice. Only thing to watch on mine is the trumpet lips are very close together and quite sharp, so the filters can be a bugger to get on/off and have a tendency to rip. Not tried anything more solid as these seem to work for me.

They fit the larger of frame better than the Tillets and are quite a bit stiffer in the back. They're very good seats. Similar money to the Tillets IIRC but probably a better option overall.

On retention so transfer easy and cheap. Offers accepted (changed toys).

Have you considered the metal toggles with the LEDs in the end? Didn't get my finger out in time when my dash was done, but these would look very neat IMO.

I hear you mate. I hear you. Honestly I do. And 75 quid's nowt I can easily see that you'll be able to hold back and not end up going "all the way" and I guess I'm simply in awe of people with a darned sight more self control than I have. 😬 PS Your best bet will be to put them in a nice box, put all the bits in the loft and forget about them for a bit. But then I've never been sensible so why should you be

Welcome to the slippery slope of "what small stuff can I do just for the short term, to tide me over". Best clear the credit card and get plenty of time off from the wife.

Where's Lawrence Llewellyn Bowen when you need him?

Don't forget that workaday cars tend to run servos (not sure if your Nissan has). These things can help a car stand on its nose. Anyone who's driven a Citroen BX will know this is possible, and not always a desirable trait. I would say that even with the fronts upgraded the brakes could still be improved. PeterC's feel very good (when shoving the pedal whilst the car was still, which isn't necessarily the best test but others have said they're very good), but then he currently has no legal handbrake mechanism (I think). Think he has the uprated rears too, and may be running Pagids... Pads are pretty vital to the overall set up mind, as noted several times above. I'm glad you said that Chelspeed

😬

Harris. 1st DP of the year. Edited by - andy murphy on 2 Jan 2003 20:03:55

YHM

😬

Avon don't even make them in the right size/profile. Tsk, tsk. From those choices I'd go 175s front and 205s rear. Your rims should be fine with this combo and it'll give pretty good balance (especially as you have a bit more weight over the front wheels).

Chris - the only way to properly sort the issue is for you to try both. It's a very subjective area (I didn't find CR500s at alll progressive, for example). Nige evidently needs something as sticky as possible to allow him to drive his machine "properly" as I seemed to do OK on 185 section 21Rs on Le Sept this year. My car's a bit (10%ish) down on his bhp wise but then I don't need hyper drive to prove my manhood (that and I've now got a 380bhp tin top, and can confirm that Pirelli PZero's aquaplane at 100) - turbo'd engine indeed V7. Sacrilege... Geoff drives like a girl which is why his last so long too. 😬 A set of 21Rs will cost you half the amount of the CR500s and if you hate them, I'll buy them off you. If you like them, you save over 200 quid every 6-10k miles. Edited by - andy murphy on 2 Jan 2003 19:02:22

Last year that was the Caterham price *fitted*. Which I didn't think was too bad once you'd totted up the total prices of the alternatives. OK it was a premium, but then it's race tested and has been fitted to the cars for some time. Spares should also not be a problem. Plumped for that route myself and am very happy with the results. If all you're looking for is better feel etc (on a K-SS you shouldn't really need massive aounts more stopping power) then pads and potentially master cylinder upgrades might be a better first step (as noted above). This also saves weight as you don't get heavy vented discs (you don;t use vented discs with the Alcons too I believe).

Implications are all positive so go for it. My car's been like this for a couple of years and it works brilliantly. No danger of impaling your knee on the petrol cap key either. And it makes starting the car more of an occasion.

PS I've only ever heard of one person saying they hated 21Rs and that was V7. I'm not indicating that he's wrong (even though he is ), but it does highlight that this is all subjective. If you're in London I could possibly lend you a set of 21Rs to try out if you have some axle stands (my spare set are bald and will be getting 48Rs when they're on stream).

If you have slicks/Avons and are getting the most from them, you want a dry sump. The Vx may be a bit better than a K in this respect but I'd still say it'd be advisable. That makes the Avons slightly less than twice the price of Yokos, but not much. And as you chew these up in 6k miles (or less) that works out at a not insignificant sum if you're swapping the tyres every 9mths.

Do you really *need* a change in suspension set up? And if so, do you *have* to have it done now? The answer in both cases is no. I've driven my car (usually set up for Yokos) on slicks and there was still a suitable performance improvement over the road tyres. OK, suspension tweaks may well have made it even quicker and, possibly more progressive (though my feeling that the slicks weren't could just be how slicks are), but there was still an improvement and the car was still safe to drive (though some spectating at the time might have felt differently - then again, they do when I'm on Yokos). You could opt for some Yokos and leave the suspension. You could even have a bash at fiddling with the suspension yourself (I believe Peter Carmichael [i seem to be refering to PC often these days, but he does write a lot about tech stuff] has posted in the past on his DIY flat flooring technique which is easy enough to follow), tough the rears do ideally require new ears. 21Rs are way better than CR500s in the wet and in my opinion ("feel" is always subjective remember). CR500s are good, but Yokos cut through standing water better than anything I've tried. It's one of the main reasons I use them as I'm not partial to cacking my pants (though in winter there are warmth advanatges) and aquaplaning at speed is one of the things in life guaranteed to give me a better bowel movement than a grannie on sennakot. And with the difference in cost of these tyres, your flat floor session will have been paid for with 6 tyres anyway. The ideal combo has to be a road tyre (21R/CR500, whichever suits) and slicks for track use. Then buy a wheel rack from Peter Carr to allow you to transport the wheels on the 7. Note, however, that Richard Ince doesn't believe there's a quantum leap between ACBs and slicks so you coul djust as easily go ACBs (both are available "scrubbed in" for not much per corner... Of course this is far from the cheapest solution, but it's a good one. Incidentally, it's possible to rip both CR500s and 21Rs to pieces on track in the dry. I got through a set of 21Rs in about 1k road miles and three track days on Le Sept. The rears, however, were a bit too narrow for the car and they were getting pushed at times. Biggest reason for Caterham flogging CR500s is their tyre deal with Avon...IMO of course.

All subjective of course, but: - CR500s cost twice as much as the Yokos. - they aren't as good in the wet, though aren'#t too far behind 21Rs it has to be said. - they wear out faster (new "green bad" compound might be better, but still unlikely to wear as well). On the plus side - they're lighter than Yokos - you don't need to make suspension adjustments. - they look funkier than 21Rs (but not 48Rs). Having tried both, the cost aspect alone would prevent me from buying CR500s. They simply are not worth the extra money.

21Rs are around the 55 quid mark (incl VAT if memory serves) for the 13" sizes... and are, IME, exceptionally good tyres for mixed use. Jury's out on the 48Rs as I don't believe anyone's yet tried them on a 7 in the same sizes as are usually used on 7s...but the people in the know (Polley for example) do say they're meant to be very good.

Considering where the normal light clusters are from I would have thought caravan reject fogs are actually in keeping I have a few links to various light providers at home so if I remember will post them (or mail me if you want more chance of remembering!). I'm looking to change the normal light clusters this year for something (a) lighter and (b) more aesthetically pleasing (with the possibility of © more functional too). LED ones would seem a good way to go...

Depending how old the car is, unless the panels are std. Caterham yellow it might be tough to geta decent match to all panels anyway, so if you're going the painting route, you might be just as well painting all of it a colour that you want. Not sure what needs to be taken off but I would think most bits to do a decent job. Will probably be getting mine done this year too (it's already all yellow but has a bit of bimetallic corrosion so could do with a reskin now and subsequent repaint). Stripping most parts off it will also allow you to tidy all those bits up too...