murph7355

Here you go. Do a search in the techtalk forum for "flat floor carmichael", with time set "from the beginning" (old threads!). The "Perfick" thread you get back explains flat flooring. Other threads give you plenty of tyre info etc. It's likely to be something simple to sort. Could be camber, ride height, tyre pressures or a combination. It wouldn't be the first time that Caterham had supplied a cvar that didn't handle too healthily straight from the factory (assuming you got it from them). Edited by - Scuffnut on 12 Apr 2004 20:12:36

It depends what you mean by undulating surfaces. If they are low frequency (lots of distance between peaks, like in a road that undulates) then it could be spring rates and/or dampers. Basically something to do with the basic suspension set up (which may include the rake of the car etc). If it's high frequency (e.g. ribbled tarmac) then a change in tyres may help. Low profile tyres are great for zero sidewall compliance or if you need to squeeze wide tyres in a given space. But I think the 7 benefits from a bit of tyre wall compliance. I'm also of the belief that it contributes to making the car more progressive when it lets go. This could be bull, but my car (currently Mark Piper's steed!) handles very nicely after lots of trying different combos out. I'll have a search for you to see if I can dig up some relevant stuff. What pressures are you running the tyres at (front and rear)? What tyres are you running on the back? Do you know if you have roll bars fitted?

You could try different tyres on your current rims. Running 185/60/13s on the front rarely caused me any hassles. Had 205/60/13s on the back. Gave a very nice balance to the car. With these tyres on, you dial in a sensible amount of ground clearance under the sump, and then set the rear accordingly (getting it flat floored etc). There's a chance that you'll still ground it every now and then, but this may well be simply that you're going quicker than you were before. If you do a search on here, Peter Carmichael has written tomes on setting these cars up, and most of it's easy to follow. Alternatively, have a chap with people like Hyperion who could help. Personally I don't think 15" wheels are the way to go. I don't even think a std. bodied 7 looks better with them.

The aircraft style switches are *designed* to allow you to shut the whole lot down VERY quickly (which is a good idea in some scenarios). Certainly quicker than messing with a key. So they have a fairly good functional side. If you place them properly, you'd have to drive flailing your hands around all over the place to hit it accidentally! They also look posey. Ignition barrels also weigh a surprising amount for such a small item.

The washer rotates on the nut of the MB wheels. I suspect it'd be a pain to make them and the machining would be a lot of extra hassle. But I'd be interested if you did some...don't have a spare to hand unfortunately. PS I think your last one to nifty was a tad harsh - he did use smileys :) That said, I can fully understand your sentiments!

Tyre circumference. Also, where are you picking up the speed reading?

If you're concerned about the top part of the dial being obscured, you can order an upside dial face which may help. You can also order white faces now I believe. If anyone wants a picture of a dash installed, mail me and I can drop a low res version to you (or if enough people want a look I'll throw it up on the web. Shaun - it's a good job I'm not chaperoning the car right now or I'd come down to your place to get my gauge accurate I know you can do it with plenty of datums, but mine still seems to misread.

Early 2000 an 8130 with fuel pressure and external shift light was 1037GBP including VAT (my price before was less the VAT and the shift light). I don't think prices have movced much, if at all. The external shift light is a good idea as the built in one isn't that bright. Not that I have a sad (and frankly scary when I look back) propensity for keeping my 7 receipts! One more advantage - you can set the fuel warning light to come on when you like. So whilst the gauge still isn't the most accurate in the world (the senders aren't that good on any fuel gauge I've seen!), you can at least set the warning appropriately once you've learnt the hard way :)

The Caterham install is a doctored 8130 I believe. The std. 8130 a while back was iro 800 quid. Then you had sensors if you didn't already have them and a few are definitely optional (e.g. fuel pressure).

You can set up more readings with less dash clutter. You can set up warnings for all sorts of parameters making engine monitoring easier (better info just before it goes pop). You get a laptimer built into it. You get tell tales built into it. The speedo can be made more accurate. And did I say that it looks good?

Will we now be seeing: Spade for sale. One owner from new. Often used and somewhat cherished. Best offer secures, just don't look on ebay 😬

I think something along the lines of "Accralites have a different profile to Omegas" is probably what PC meant Dave. They are very different and, unless you have the info up front, this can catch you out. It doesn't make them bad pistons - they're not - but it can lead to hassles if all elements aren't checked properly. Fuel quality is a definite thing to watch with high compression. Especially in these days of pinko environmentalist vegetarian types who want us all to run our steeds on Palmolive

Many moons ago when I first had my K done, I had a similar problem with compression ratio. Accralite pistons are not ideal in these circumstances from what I gleaned at the time, Omegas being a better bet. I ended up having the Accralites skimmed, but all this adds to the cost. That said, by careful work with the head it was possible to sort the CR out. I think it started at 12.5 or 13 and went down to just over 11. But don't hold me to those numbers! Note that taking too much out of the head can cause other hassles later... However, I'd get a bit more info together before proceeding: 1) Ask whether the block has been skimmed or not, and by how much. 2) Ask if the head has been skimmed or not and by how much. If too much has been taken off either, you're going to have more difficulty getting the CR sorted, and should you need to have any work done in the future (if a head gasket goes and the head is affected etc) you have little or no room for manoeuvre. I wouldn't mess with the head gasket at all (use one of the beefed up versions that are available regardless). oily and PC are much more knowledgable than I, but depending on what info you get from above, you *may* be better off replacing some of the bits to give you a better long term bet.

Possibly some 5.75". Depends on price and how they look, and would also like retaining rings (though I was sure these couldn't be done in CF).

Mav - have a word with Emerald and/or Dave Andrews. They may well have a map that will cover the majority of your engine's needs. Might even have a few different ones to try. This is a fairly common K upgrade spec and there were loads running like this ages ago. Think V7SLR may also have some maps. This may not get you a perfect map, but is likely to get you a good enough map to start and run with - could even end up exceptionally close. Then take the car down when you have more time...

And the other culprit is often the flasher unit. Have a look round the passenger footwell and see if you can see a little black box with metal prongs coming out of it anywhere. This'll be the flasher unit (they sometimes pop out). If it is this, just plug it back in (goes in a bulkhead slot in a panel just above the passenger's knees).

MSM insurance. Thumbs up on all counts. Dave runs the place, though I've no doubt the ladies there would question that. Edited by - Scuffnut on 28 Feb 2004 20:36:04

Bar does look good. At the risk of causing you grief, travel light and enjoy the ride back without being too paranoid Were the 13"ers much more pricey than the 15"s?? Surprised at that. A Racetech wheel costs about 40 quid and they're very nice - not sure if a different boss would be required, but would make a good Christmas/birthday pressie... If you're going to take it on track, an Apollo is the min. you need to get on the car. Dry sump would be better - would require a very nice benefactor at Christmas time, but could save you lots of hassle with engine trouble... Most importantly, enjoy the car and the day. Picking up a dream car is like reliving Christmas when you were 5

Jesus, where do you live? Are you expecting a very long drive. And what state are you expecting to pick the car up in? Warm, weatherproof clothes, AA cover, credit card, mobile phone and your favourite mag (to read on the train) would be all I'd take! Might be wise to take your driving license too. Good luck picking it up - can imagine how you feel! Nice looking car btw - is that a new FIA bar? And did you consider 13" wheels?

The 1400SS with 6spd box is one of the sweetest 7s you can get (IMO). I personally wouldn't consider a 1400 without the 6spd box unless it was a very, very good price. The 6spd was designed with this engine in mind and it shows. Adjusted 5spds are OK, but the shift action of the 6spd, and the extra cog are worth it (again, IMO). Don't worry too much about the LSD thing as you can easily live without it and still pedal the car quickly. And they're a lot cheaper than the gearbox to install later if you feel you want to. Lots depends on your budget. Nice Superlights seem to come up every now and then at very nice prices. Inital cost is obviously higher than a 1400SS with 6spd, but then you get so much more for your money (carbon bits, LSD, I think you get big brakes and it'll have the 1600SS engine which is slightly gutsier, though not much). If you could stretch your budget, and hold out for the right car it'd be worth it.

The springs in these are also reasonably tight, so it needs a positive action to shut it off. I've had one on for years and never even come close to shutting it down accidentally.

YSHM

Just packing some stuff and have found 40 unopened minidisc blanks. They are 74min Sony Prim series. I also have a player/recorder. '98 vintage Sony. Smallest available at the time. Just listened to some old stuff and they are superb, but I have an iPod so don't need this any more. If interested, drop me a mail.

Those systems are used a lot in Japan. They can be bought here for about 3.5k I think. I looked a couple of years ago but moved house instead. If you have a XF car I guess you'd need to park that on the lower bit!

Mine's sold too.