murph7355

What sort of car have you got? Something with SL type power levels (arbitrary finger in the air of up to 160ish bhp) go with 185s all round. Over that go with 185s front and 205s rear. R500 levels might warrant 215s at the back but no more is necessary and they work well enough with 205s on the back too. Profile depends on preference but I run 60s. 70s are cheaper and give a bit more "comfort" trading off "control", but for road use it's probably going to be tough to tell the difference. For the wider tyres, 70s may not (a) be available and (b) fit under the arches properly.

Do a search in the archives as the relative merits of each have been done many times over. I think the most balanced precis was done by Peter Carmichael, so if you search for his name, 'K series', 'Vx', 'xflow' and other such words you should find it (think it was earlier in 2002 but might have been '01). As a slight aside, any engine can be fragile when tuned. If the right measures are taken during build and use there's no reason why any of the engine choices available for a 7 shouldn't give many miles of trouble free service. This topic, however, has also been done to death. Only real way for you to sort this subject out is to try a few examples of each - because even two Vxs (K's, Cosworths etc) can feel very, very different depending on the rest of the spec and how they're set up.

I think the half covers are about 30 quid new, but could be wrong. Pretty sure you can get a full one (both sides) fitted for around 100 quid. As for the cat', are you sure you won't need it come MOT time? Don't think I've ever seen one sold separately because most people who have had them from new end up needing them. Condition of these is also something that's quite hard to put your finger on as I seem to recall they're sensitive to storage and lack of use.

I'd heard the same thing Peter, but from the look of the tread pattern find it quite hard to believe they'll be good wet weather tyres. However, as soon as the sizes Harry mentions become available I'll be trying some.

Like Richard I've never reattached mine despite some long trips (though granted I was travelling solo and could use the passenger space for luggage). So it might be worth thinking through this a good bit. If you don't want to reattache it you can cut it off further back... Hoops description was good. If you search the archives there are plenty more in depth descriptions (though any links to pictures that I posted will no longer work at the minute...).

Give me a little while and I'll sort some webspace out. It's about time I sorted some proper stuff out for this sort of thing so I'll do it in the next week or so.

1) Pros - you have a spare if you get a flat. And it's something else for a Volvo to hit. Cons - it weighs a lot and looks sh*te. 2) Depends which wheels/tyres you have, but shouldn't be much less than 15kg and could easily be 20kg. Never had to use my Tyre Weld in about 20k miles of not having a spare. 3) Use a dremel and it'll take no more than about 30mins. The securing hole for the spare can only be properly removed with a reskin. You can put a bung in it, or use it for your number plate light. In short, get rid of it. You can make it removable for resale or to carry luggage if you want...I have pictures somewhere.

I thought you could fit these with a few spacers strategically located in the SL cage, or a bit cut away from the top bar of the doors... Anyway, offer's still there if Chris doesn't want them - the mind boggles what he wants them for. Perhaps side flaps for his wings? Or maybe they're for his stationary engine?

Andy If Chris doesn't have them, and you've not been bombarded with mails, I'll have them. Though you do know you can fit them with a cage?

I'm sure if you asked them nicely BTB or similar could make you a rear exit one. Only slightly different pipework etc and could probably be done so as not to do any harm if enough thought was put into it. I think the Caterham rear exit one was the same as they'd been using for other models, but could be wrong.

Buy yourself a warm coat and go out in it regardless of the weather. This also has the advantage of giving you plenty to do following the drive if you must.

Have a word with BTB. They do a different sort of side exit can that quietens things down. Looks pretty good too, and can't believe the Caterham one will be any better at reducing noise. I don't believe Caterham are doing the rear exit exhaust for the R500 any more as the engine isn't meant to like the restricted breathing. Could be rubbish info I have, of course, but have a word with Caterham or Minister. You'll also need to do something with the induction. In fact if you haven't, you'll definitely need the airbox to stand a cat in hells chance of beating noise regs. Other option is to impose a lower rev limit on yourself and appease the noise people that way. Defeats the object of having 8600 available, but if it gets you on track... BTB might also be able to help with a rear exit solution if you really wanted to go that route as I believe they do custom jobs too. Seem to recall their side exit can is 4-500 quid.

Drop a mail to oilyhands. He might have something to offer.

c21's first answer is the righ one as he notes. Get a set of Yoko 21Rs. Start with them around 18psi and never look back.

Best place for them. Next torpedo goes to a Nissan ship.

Ask yourself this - do you think the car manufacturers, with billions of dollars worth of research budget, wouldn't have snapped up the patent for this kind of thing if it genuinely worked? Especially with all the hype about fuel economy, emissions etc etc... Noel - we let you win at cricket so you don't get too upset about the rugby.

I have both set ups back to back and IMO the race master cylinder is way more preferable. Basically the pedal needs more pressure on it to act, but has much less travel before it starts to do something meaningful. I always find with the std master cylinder that it feels like I'm going to have to snap the pedal before the car stops sharply, or even that the pedal is flexing. Find it much easier to modulate braking with the race m/c. And during the times when you *really* need to stop, stomping on it is a bit of a natural reaction You can tell a difference just sitting in the cars at stand still. If you work in the City you can have a sit in my cars and press the pedals if you want. PS To answer the full questions - you don't *need* it now. But fitting it now removes the headache of bleeding etc etc twice if you want to go with it. Edited by - andy murphy on 4 Dec 2002 14:10:14

Get rid of the seat and you should be OK. If the Caterham one is tight, a small bit of padding will make it comfy enough with a thin bench base or moulded seat as Graham suggests.

Graeme I have mailed you about this very car... Call me on 07931 545 664 if you like (might have to leave a message but I'll call you back if you leave your number).

Machine Mart one is the nuts. Well somebody had to, and it is good (the gun, not the pun). Edited by - andy murphy on 21 Nov 2002 18:56:26

Mine's been on for a while now and has done a fair few road and (hard) track miles. Works very well. I also have a laminova which is also a good bit of kit. If you don't have one already, look to buy one with twin inputs to cover both scavenge stages of the Pace. This is a good buy for both keeping high oil temps in check and also (probably more so) warming it up quickly. My tank's where the passenger footwell used to be. Means I can have a very standard tank and talking to Mick on the London to Brighton thing we think that it might also help the speed of oil warm up as the tank is close to the exhaust rather than in front of the engine. No empirical evidence mind. The fittings on mine did leak a bit at first, but with a bit of attention to detail they can be made tight. Very clean now. Pressures are about 68-70psi hot under load and about 25psi hot idle, sometimes down to 18psi but build very very quickly. Pressures can be increased as desired but this then gives very high cold oil pressures which I'm wary of. I'm using Mobil 1 15W50 BTW. Mine was fitted by Protune/Ratrace and was the first system made, so experiences of it aren't really representative of the current product being shipped. Note, however, that it has been said that it would be a tough fit without removing the engine and Pace have never envisaged selling the system as a "kit" as such.

Red Fiamm ones from Halfords are about 15 quid (I think you can get them in blue or black from other outlets). You can probably get lighter ones as the compressor on these is made out of depleted uranium, but they aren't half loud and sound much better than the limp wristed electric ones. Lorry drivers cack their pants when they hear these going off alongside as they start to pull out on you. They also look amusing under the bonnet (horns, not lorry drivers).

You should call it Ronaldo.

You should take a look at my car hoops. Nice bare marks in sidescreen shape (though it is 7.5yrs old and has done 50k+ miles). Aeroscreens and a cage next year.

Button to the right of the wheel. Air horns (bit Dukes of Hazard, and weigh more, but significantly better than the electric ones).