murph7355

Have to say I'm a bit surprised (or am I) they didn't offer some discount off the parts price for the comp. exhaust, even if it was just a couple of hundred quid. You can buy a cat by pass pipe so you wouldn't need two full exhausts, just the pipe. Technically you need a cat for emissions as well as noise. But there are Caterham friendly garages out there that will sort you out if you don't have one, I believe. Either that or buy an older car If you search for 4-2-1 and 4-1 on the forum you'll get a good run down of the pros and cons. Adding Carmichael to the search will give you a detailed answer Basically boils down to engine size and where you want the benefits...I think most people are opting for 4-1 at the moment, but either choice will be a marked improvement over the one where the collector is inside the engine bay.

You don't want BRG and Yellow. You think you do, but you don't. Drive round in a bright car for a bit and you'll wonder why you ever contemplated BRG and Yellow.

Can you get Toyos? I've heard good things about these? Alternatively, have a couple of sets of Yokos shipped over from here. They're only about 78USD ea. and you might be able to claim VAT back making them 66USD a pop.

Julian - I'll bother you about a cam cover another time. If it saves weight then I have to have one but can wait until this order's done with. Lights...Been thinking about this for some time. Two options the way I see it: 1) Build up a carbon fibre box to mount them on. I reckon this would be relatively straightforward and would, for those equipped with other carbon bits, look quite fetching (as well as being lighter than the rubber caravan mounts). 2) A completely different design of light. Current train of thought is LEDs and to this end, having been staring at the back of buses for a while, I've found a few suppliers... My current favourite is a single round light that would have a strip of indicator LEDs across the middle, a stop light in the top segment and a tail light in the lower segment. Not sure how this'd look though 9maybe a bit too "MkI Cortina", so I'm also thinking about strip lights a la the Mk1 Maser 3200 GT. When I finally move house and have 5mins spare I'm going to mock up some pictures of the rear of my car to see what the various options would look like. LED lights should be quite a bit lighter than the std. items and should last longer, LEDs not requiring bulbs...they'll also be flush fit more or less. Am also thinking of knocking up some small but very bright LED fog lights. As mentioned elsewhere, now I've kicked the need for more power I have this irrational desire to make the rear of the car as absolutely clean as possible (which is why I'm also looking into a TVR-esque rear number plate).

Julian - how red does your man think the red anodising will be?? I've resisted this thread so far, but it looks too interesting to resist for too much longer... Count - there's a guy on here that does carbon fibre for a "hobby" I believe. I think he's called Mick. Don't think it's mic (Attree) but a search for "carbon fibre hobby carmichael" should pull it up as PC posted it...

The laminova/Mocal doesn't have a thermostat as standard but I think the idea is that the water circuit one does all that's needed and having two could well cause more grief. Either way it works a treat. My oil heats up twice as quickly (not properly timed but the order of magnitude's about right) and then both oil and water temps are pretty evenly matched at around the 80degC mark. If the oil gets hotter than this the water circuit starts taking some of the load to cool it off. Note that I have the big race rad so cooling capacity in the water circuit isn't an issue. Others are, I believe, using std. rads with this set up though. Multi-stage dry sumps basically entail having one (or more? Doubt this would work) pressure stage(s) - these push oil round the engine - and one (or more) scavenge stages - which suck it out of the engine. I *think* the Caterham dry sump only has one scavenge but could be wrong. The advantage of having more than one scavenge is that you can position them so that you suck back as much oil as possible no matter where it happens to be gathering in the engine. On the Pace system there's one at the front and back of the sump pan, which is designed so that all the oil flows into a central channel in the pan and is collected from there. It's possible to design and add stages that, for example, could scavenge from the head. As ever I could well be over simplifying things and may have the nuances completely wrong, but that's how I understand it.

And another vote. If you have plans for a multi stage dry sump system, think hard about which to get. You can get versions that have multi of inputs resulting in all oil going through it rather than just a percentage. Still works a treat though, and I think the faster oil warm up is probably more beneficial than the cooling properties. They can also be positioned anywhere in the engine bay and can be easily cleaned out if the worse happens.

My fuel pressure is in the 50s, but does fluctuate which I thought very odd. Then I wiggled a wire on the sender and lo, it fluctuated. Tested with a more reliable gauge it seemed steady, no amount of firming the connectors up seemed to cure the other one so I've decided to live with it as is.

Is Mick's fitted and fully operational now?

Doesn't temperature inc. with the number on Champion (7 is hotter than a 6 etc) , and decrease with the number on NGK (6 is hotter than a 7 etc)?

The Pace system should be a good few hundred quid cheaper than the Caterham system, but there are still some items to be ironed out on it. I didn't fit the one on my car, but the guys who did reckon it'd be tough to fit without removing the engine. I'm not wholly sure why, and the engine on my car was coming out anyway, but that's what I've been told.

Your location does

So come on, what's the answer. I've been waiting ages and the tension's getting to me. One last guess - you're pals with Paul McKenna and it's an optical illusion.

Rotary engines make superb generators for UPS systems. I thought you were sticking with the Vx Trevor? My two penneth would be to find someone local to do the engine (i.e. at least in this country). You'll have problems with it at some point and getting it fixed might prove problematic if the builders are 3k+ miles away. I'm sure that whenever I've had stuff shipped I didn't pay duty or VAT on the shipping costs. Come to think of it, it's rare that I've been collared for duty on any of it, but an engine is probably a different kettle of fish.

You're using "men" inches rather than "women" inches (so the tyres are only 6 real world inches)?

Sometimes For Sale is funnier than the rest of the site put together

If there's loads to be done I'd be half inclined to get one of the mobile firms to do it for you. They dont charge the earth, the results are truly amazing and you can do something else while it's being done. Once done, Armourfend or something might be a good idea. It's not invisible (particularly if you let your car get dirty) but it works. I have a leaflet from a stone chip repairer at home. Only of use if you're near Epsom, but it's a franchised firm so may have one near Cambridge...

Just make sure the filter has anodised purple edges. The Pipercross name is only worth 20bhp in any other colour.

I fourth the area meet suggestion. Also have a visit to Caterham in Surrey, if only because they have a wide selection of different cars all under one roof. If you're lucky they might even deign to take you out for test drives. Superlight has to be your ideal choice. SLR's start at about 18k but 22k-24k is ball park for the good stuff. Even for those not built like Kate Moss the Supersport spec K has enough poke for a good turn of speed. Round a circuit they'll wipe the floor with anything from TVR. The only thing you'll lack is 100mph+ shove, but the beauty of these things is how well they go below that speed. You half lose the need to go any faster.

The open breather pipe I had on my cam cover exhaled black ****e all over the side of my car. Of no particular relevance. Just thought I'd let you know. It's fixed now.

Cars have had Ford Transit side indicators put down the sides. I think V7SLR's are so equipped. Another alternative are Fiat Coupe indicator lights in the headlamp bowls (a la Count and a few others). Both are infinitely neater than the wing mount method Caterham prefer. I'd probably go the headlamp route if I needed to do it... You could also put something like the Fiat ones on the wings, and they'd look a lot better than the caravan items Caterham use...

And in case you're wondering, 1 onch is approximately equal to 2.54cm. 😬

Have you ever tried narrower rears? I wonder whether a narrower width (7"s all round perhaps, or maybe 8"s on the rear) might allow you to get more heat into them, thus making them stickier? I'm also told that you need to build up heat in slicks "gently", i.e. a few sane laps before going for it. Have you tried the car with the arb connected? What springs and dampers are you using?

Maybe you're not getting the slicks up to temperature, or maybe they're not in very good nick? Have you tried doing up the anti roll bar? Maybe it's too stiff at the back? Or maybe you're right foot's just too leaden 😬 Didn't mean to suggest that 205s made it impossible to get the back out. Far from it. Just that it feels well balanced with 185 fronts and 205 rears, and when it does go it does so gently.

That's over 18k's worth of tyres Nige. Imagine what you could do with that.