murph7355

Cheers fellas. Have tried the bent coat hanger method...and I'm rapidly ending up with a motley collection of allegedly sticky stuff in there :) The grabber that Martyn notes looks ideal, but there's not much room in there and I've now totally lost sight of the offending article (it's probably stuck up the other side of the flywheel with the sticky stuff I've now lost!). A reply of the John Cleese moment will ensue soon. Have consider jacking the back up and turning the wheels with it in gear. But my sodding jack won;t fit under the car on my drive!

OK...I've managed to allow an ali spacer to fall into the bell housing. It's sat on the engine side of the flywheel at the bottom, but is only just in sight. Before I resign myself to removing the engine (or rather getting someone else to), has anyone got any bright ideas (bearing in mind I've been dumb enough to get it in there in the first place!). It's a K series car.

Andy - how did you get one with this? I just bought a Brise and am having a nightmare fitting it. I *think* the mount plate on the Brise may be rubbing against the block, but having measured it up against the Magnetron one that just came off it, I can't see how (as they're the same size)!

Big 21R fan here. Value wise the best all weather tyre for a 7 IMO. Just be sure to wear off the release agent before caning it.

If it's a pukka SL and you're worried about resale value (as you appear to be) then sell the SL and buy something cheaper to drop the Duratec into. Fair or not, homebrew cars (I have one) are never worth as much/as easy to sell on as factory spec cars. Not a problem for me as I'll never be selling my car. But if you're concerned about resale, don't butcher it. To do the Duratec properly you also need to reskin at least one side of the car, and if it's painted you'll need to add both these things to the cost to change. Things rarely end up as cheap as you think they should when you're adding up the engine bits ;)

As admin you should be able to change your brother's password. You can then log in as him and make sure everything's there that you need.

I know this doesn't help you much, but I've been running Macs for 8yrs, have 5 of them and have never lost programs or data through updates... Have you tried searching the Apple support forums (e.g. http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5232958)? Must be something more to it.

And don't put the job off. I hadn't noticed mine and nearly ended up with my arse all over a French motorway. Once they start going, the others will go more quickly. And nothing makes you pucker up more than hearing a metallic zipper type noise at speed ;) Air riveter really is the way forward I supsect - did mine with a hand one and it wasn't fun.

The two cars I know of both spec'd the 3.62, but came with the 3.9... With 205/60/13s, a 1:1 6th gear and 7800rpm, a 3.62 should give ~145mph. A 3.9 gives....~135mph. ;)

I know of a couple of new R400s (in the last few weeks) that had the wrong diff fitted by the factory... Might be worth checking ;) Also, GPS is a better way to get accurate readings (though the Stack isn't bad if accurately set up.

Do you have any pics?

You can still fit a screen with both types of cage... I'm just about to have a cage and lowered floors fitted. Car should be ready in a couple of weeks so can let you know what it's like then. At 6'4" I don't *need* the lowered floor, but I reckon it'll make for a more pleasurable experience.

PS I wouldn't be inclined to run different tyres front to rear. Not as much a no no as different ones across an axle, but I still wouldn't do it, having learned early on in my 7ing just how much of a difference tyres make.

It's a while since I played my stuck record, but try A021Rs. They're about the cheapest of the Yokos (owing to the lack of trendy looking tread no doubt), very progressive tyres allowing you to play nicely, exceptional in the wet and remarkably effective in the dry. They also last very well IME (200bhp-ish K series driven with spirit). On the downside, they're heavy (though probably no more so than 48Rs) and start to fal to bits on a hot track day when pushing (the rubber marks down the side of the car add a certain "patina" to a 7 though). Well worth a try (I believe they're about 55 quid a corner these days). With 180bhp I'd probably go with 185 fronts and 205 rears. 60 profile on 13" wheels, or if you want to save a bit of cash without too much downside, go with 70s.

Having just moved and got my stuff out of storage, I have a number of electrical bits and pieces surplus to requirements (replaced by other gadgets, no longer required and taking up space! etc). Any interest in the following (will chuck it on ebay anon if no one wants any of it). Happy to consider offers too. Probably best to mail me on queries etc. Prices exclude postage. I live in London, so could be collected from there, or Sheffield (or if I'm out and about I may be able to drop stuff off). - JVC HRS-7500 S-VHS VCR. Works perfectly. Case needs a wipe. Remote and cables (IXOS Scart or Ixos S-Video/Phonos) included. 70 quid. - Grundig VCR. Works perfectly. Cables and remote included. 40 quid. - Grundig 21" CRT TV. OK condition, though I think there may be some blooming on the picture. Free with the VCR or a donation to NtL. - Sony Playstation 1, 2xmulti tap, at least 5 controllers, at least 25 games (details can be provided), selection of memory cards. 100 quid. - Gameboy Advance (not the flip top one), built in backlight, couple of games and a case. 40 quid. - OWC DVD writer (believe it's base around a Pioneer A104 drive). Will work with Mac iDVD if running OSX 10.1 still. PC and Mac compatible. Includes firewire cable. 60 quid. - Globetrotter Option PCMCIA tri-band GPRS data card. 50 quid. Will work with a Mac with additional software (which I think I have a license key for somewhere!). PC and Mac compatible. - Netgear MA401 PCMCIA Wifi card. 10 quid. - Noteworthy 56k PCMCIA modem. Donation to NtL. - Griffin iMic. USB audio input device for a Mac. 10 quid. - Griffin iMate. Rotary controller for a Mac. 10 quid. - iPaq 36xx serial cradle (connects an iPaq to a serial port). Donation to NtL. - Apple Snow Airport basestation. 20 quid. - HP iPaq 1910 (ultra slim PDA, superb screen, SD slot - not SDIO though), usb sync cable, power adapter (not original - multi voltage job), 256Mb SD card, ali case (ugly, but protective). Includes Links golf game. 75 quid. Perfect order. - DLink 313P Wifi print server (3x parallel ports). 50 quid. - various accessories for Toshiba 3010 laptop (2xfloppy disk unit, CD-ROM drive, port expander). 20 quid. - Macally Airstick. Mac compatible joystick. 10 quid. - Technics RXBX501 tape deck. Perfect condition including all cables (Monster). 50 quid. - Denon TU380RD tuner. Perfect condition including all cables (Monster). 50 quid. - Technics SL-PG200A CD player including remote and cables (Monster). 25 quid. - Nintendo Gamecube, 8 games, 4 controllers (2 Wavebird wireless jobbies), memory cards. 150 quid. - Hauppauge MyTV2Go USB TV adapter. Bought for a Mac, will likely work with a PC too. 25 quid. Edited by - scuffnut on 23 Apr 2005 22:38:50

There's an applet on the web that does these for you (unlock codes)...

That's not pimped up enough Luke 😬

No 7 left after this Richard? Good luck with the SR8 and hopefully catch up with you at a track day or something at some point in the future.

What pads are you running? Have you tried something like pagids? I tried changing to the beefier Mintex pads but didn't like them on standard brakes. Also tried greenstuff which cracked up and were, frankly, crap. The m/c helps but in the end I got tired with messing around and installed the big brakes (along with m/c and whatever the std pads were at the time. Much, much better. I've never driven his car, but the pedla on Peter Carmichael's car is quite simply the best I've ever felt in a 7 (or any other car for that matter). I like it a lot and have no doubt it'd be better than mine on track. When I finally get back into the 7 after a prolonged layoff (work and other priorities) I'll drop some pagids in my brakes I think.

If you fit in a standard 7, buy one. If not, buy an SV. Simple dimple.

Sounds to me like these are used engines. Why else would a rebuild be required (rings etc)? The opening bit, however, made it sound to me as if they haven't yet been used.... I'd be asking for a bit more clarification before buying (mileage on the unit, warranty and warranty conditions etc) but this could be a very good deal...

I bought an electric wheel nut drill for about a tenner with various sockets included. Runs off the lighter. Can't recall where it was from though - Draper or somewhere.

I like the Willans belts. If you haven't tried them, have a go with monkey belts. Think that's the name for them - the two crotch belts son't actually have a clip on them, rather wrap under your legs and have a loop that the shoulder clip passes through. They're very comfy.

I'd be inclined to go for the following in order of preference/ultimate cost: Exhaust - make sure you get one more to suit where the engine will end up (IIRC, 4-2-1 is the choice for an 1800). Big brakes with appropriate cylinder and pads - I was never happy with the standard pedal feel and when you upgrade to big power, it's always nice to know you have more stopping power than you really need :) Getting a pedal that's not horrificly mushy at speed really increases confidence (that said, a pad change might well have the same effect!). ECU and remap - mix with the exhaust ideally, and perhaps some verniers. I believe each of these is south of 1kGBP each. And would be something that would fit in well with any next steps you choose to do (like build yourself and engine over time). The capacity change for less than 1k sounds good. But I wonder how well it would truly run with the std. ECU, head and exhaust on it? I also wonder if you'd miss the revvy nature of the 1400 if you went for this as a stop gap. To that end, the flywheel would be something I'd do too. For info, my car started off as a 1400 Supersport, only with a 6spd box (one of the best ever combos IMO, and in many respects well worth leaving alone!). I started off quite slowly down the ugrade route a year or so after I bought the car (FIA bar was first to go on!) but my will power was defeated very quickly and the car rapidly grew (in direct proportion with the shrinkage in my wallet). It's getting on for 10yrs old now, so at some point earlyish next year I'll be stripping it down completely and looking at the options when I put it back together. I may end up selling the 200ish bhp, 6spd drivetrain (a good bit less than 10yrs old) if you're interested :)...

You want some Yoko 021Rs. Plenty of grip, wear well. You don't even need to change them for Summer :) Think you can still get these now the 048R is out. 185s will fit under std front arches and work well, either with 185s at the back (SL power levels) or 205s at the back (SLR+ power).