C7

Good analogy, and makes sense. This works for most of us lot who have a reasonable interest in our cars setup, and generally have the time and inclination to work backwards from working hot pressures as above. However, most car manufacturers quote cold pressures in the handbooks AFAIK, and Joe Average generally goes out and sets pressures at that - same every week if they're lreally reading the book closely! However as the manufacturer has no knowledge what the ambient temperature will be in any given climate, how can they quote consistent cold pressures? Is there a way to work out what working hot pressures they really intend the tyres to operate at?

Font's required are Rage Italic and Arial Black. Discussed before at http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=33843 and http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=35407 and on www.r300.net

Me thinks a Ferrari colour, Argento Titano maybe ???? http://www.ferrariclub.com/faq/colors.html or punch it into google.

How are tyre pressure settings, especially COLD settings, affected by ambient temperature, eg mid 20s in summer versus close to feezing in the winter (global warming notwithstanding...) ? If one was to setup for say 17PSI in a cold winter garage, how would one compensate for a warm garage in the summer, or even after a run around the track in summer? Presume the running temps would be lower in the winter, higher in the summer for the same given starting COLD pressure? Is there a formula somewhere, or just known best practice Jim

If you're shopping for bits, try http://www.auto-vaux.co.uk/ - you'll have to ring 'em as the website isn't up properly yet. Good prices and service IMHO. No connection, just happy customer etc...

First thought - lucky bugger 😬 Practical advice - RTV High Temp silicone is the stuff to use on the joint. I just did it and it doesn't pop and crackle anymore ☹️, but I guess that means things are how they are supposed to be.... Good luck.

Mike Could you post dimensions please from mounting face to extreme outside edge of box, and also overall length of the box. Cheers Jim

Is the Dave Andrews mod doable in situ? I noticed Phil did Jasons on the bench in a vice.... Second thing, what is the actual reduction in lateral movement after this mod? Cheers Jim

Tyres (Yoko 032R) still have tread left after a single trackday, but look a little secondhand 😬 Lots of lumps and stuff....how do I know if this is my tyre tread or just crap I've picked up off the track. Thought the drive home might have removed this but it was all mostly straight motorway miles ☹️ 🤔 Cheers Jim

Do Woodford or BJ do trailers in kit form then ?

Here's a puzzler.....why are accelerator pedals generally designed to be narrower than clutch / brake? Is it just a question of footwell space, or is this design better for heel & toe driving? Does a delicate pedal make for delicate inputs Your opinions please 🤔

Ended up drilling a 7mm "seat" in the centre of the upper (wobbly) bit of the G-clamp to locate the pin part of the tool, which saves it dislodging when pressure is applied. May mount the pin permanenly in there its seat with plastic metal as suggested. All press studs were perfect and centrally squashed - I re-did them all in the end !! A job well done, even if I do say so myself 😬 Thanks all Jim Edited by - JimBean on 26 Jan 2005 21:32:41

Thanks all G-clamp, tool and duct tape it is then. Cheers Jim Success is when you keep cars and hammers apart 😬

Is there a press stud tool out there that you don't whack with a hammer? One stud has come off the boot cover, and I'm not chuffed having to remove the whole thing from the car for one little popper....neither am I going to weald hammer near car - on purpose anyhow! Cheers Jim

Leaking from the joint between manifold and system at the 4-1 joint. I know because there's black soot on the trailing edge of the front cycle wing. Do I use goo or not?