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Paul McKenzie

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Everything posted by Paul McKenzie

  1. It's good to use a magnetic sump plug after a rebuild then you can see the amount of powdered metal sludge that collects on the plug, which gives a visual indication of when the running in periods are over. I do 200 miles on cheapo 20/50, change oil for more 20/50 and repeat for 400 miles, then onto full synthetic.
  2. Echo what Richard said...if you've got a lowered floor
  3. British Leyland comes up trumps for the obscure https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M13x1-25-Sump-Plug-Suits-Rover-Honda-BL-Land-Rover-Various-models-years-SUP3-/252284094138
  4. Foam filled the whole area
  5. Build up the gap with bonnet foam, then use the wing rubber to finish it neatly- I have the RiF one fitted this way
  6. No-one's suggested putting a Vauxhall 2.0xe in it which would give 150-170 bhp on carbs- you can still pick one up cheap and get it refurbed for a grand....or is the torque too much for the live axle? And, since I have my engine out at the moment, I could flog him the original engine loom and ignition ecu if I can strip it out, and coil and dizzy
  7. M10 x 55 with plain and locking washers and the spacers fitted between ear and caliper. Torque to 35 lbft.
  8. Thompster, Get rid of the EBC pads-they're c**p
  9. Hi Derek I would think it's down to historic availability of a wide range of cheap tyres, as 15" was the norm for most cars in the past. 13" is the way to go though for track use and specialised tyres.
  10. 15" has been standard wheel size on most new Caterhams
  11. On my CF doors, I used the same technique as Mucus, but I also used the drill to 'slot' them about 6 or 8 mm. (which doesn't show) in order to compensate for my highly accurate positioning.
  12. I had some done last year. Never had a problem with using them, although I saw the various comments and ignored them, as there is always someone expecting a £160 job for £20. I've got a set of badly prepped Caterham anthracites where the paint is flaking that are next to go there. I use these on-track with slicks which need changing, so I'm going to go the whole hog and fork out the princely sum of £30 ea for them to remove the old slicks, strip and paint the wheels, then mount and balance the new slicks - that's what I call a deal. I usually leave them there for a couple of weeks, but they will do a same day service for a tenner or so each extra.
  13. OK Paul, but it will be useful for others, I've had 3 sets done there, and another on the way
  14. Where are you? You can get 'em stripped, treated and powder coated in any finish you want for £20 ea. at City Wheel Refurbishment in Brum. They do a great job-not worth doing 'em yourself!. https://www.citywheelrefurbishment.co.uk/
  15. We are talking about road registered Vauxhall engined HPC's from '96 on, not race cars
  16. The positives are stiffer chassis, central handbrake, detachable cross members under bonnet, better seats etc. Negative is softer springs which will need changing if you want to do track work or go round corners without grinding away the silencer. I would wait for a '96 on.
  17. More rigid chassis from '96, much softer suspension (to make it available to a wider audience ). Removable upper chassis tubes. Usually no rear ARB, if there was one then centre mounted through the DD, then later mounted to the low buttress on the DD (inferior and susceptible to fractures) Centre mounted handbrake on transmission tunnel. So not many changes
  18. IMHO dry sumping makes little or no difference in ground clearance (but a big difference when you go round corners on track) as the wet sump is already as shallow as the ds pan. Suitable (short) filter is WIX 7064 from where you'll be able to find many equivalents http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WIX-WL7064-Car-Oil-Filter-Spin-On-Replaces-W77-PH2830-AW10-/361508884568 The long filter is a waste of time and you will damage it
  19. Switch the drop link over to the inside. Also make sure it's not the DD ear catching.
  20. Tom, Your washers should be on top of the engine mount as you are about to do. I have used 2 and 3/4" bolts on mine since almost new as the rubbers compress a little and eventually the carbs snag the cutout - (heavy VX lump). Just make sure that when you measure up the engine mounts etc to get the correct bolt length you don't go too long or they'll bottom in the mounts and rip the rubbers.
  21. The earth/s for the indicators are a problem. Locate them, detach them, clean to bare metal and re-attach with new fixings. Then a dab of paint on top.
  22. Tony, It's OK to say that now, they're under new management
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