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Paul McKenzie

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Everything posted by Paul McKenzie

  1. I did my '96 chassis around the Millenium when I found a lot of powder coat flaking off in the areas exposed to rain. I drill wire-brushed off loose powder coat, then passivated the steel with phosphoric acid, then brush painted with Hammerite no 1 primer, followed by 'Hammerite underbody seal with Waxoyl' It's been fine ever since except for the 'bubbling spot' that everyone gets. Your chassis has gone a lot longer without treatment, so If I were you, I'd just do the obvious exposed tubes and rails if you're going to do the full strip later, and leave the later complete refurb job to the experts.
  2. I think the lowered floor would be a mistake for someone your height . I'm 6 foot and I share cars for track-days with my mate with his lowered floor, and I can't see properly to place the nearside wheel of his car on left handers. My solution has been to manufacture a 2 inch booster seat in closed cell foam, but it's a PITA (comfortable in reality ) but something unnecessary you might wish to avoid.
  3. IMHO lowered drivers' floor makes it difficult to see and position the left hand front wheel on track when using an aeroscreen. Try before you buy!
  4. Just standard diff, the tab in the last picture might carry the ratio or it'll be on it somewhere - Phil will have hundreds of the standard crownwheel and pinions
  5. You might want to just slack off the two rear gearbox mounting bolts as well.
  6. Steve, You should replace both sides. Mine's also a '96 car and I've replaced both twice or three times. The last time I noticed it on return from Spa, and it had also resulted in a broken engine mounting bracket which in turn put the weight of one side of the engine on the alternator strap.....which broke!
  7. Michelin pileups were the originals and were ok'ish for the road..really anything will do as you've got proper wheels for the track!
  8. 10mm shim was the bog standard
  9. Link to my ad on Pistonheads: https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-plates/parts-and-accessories/caterham/mike-barnby-wheels-and-kumho-supersofts/7309942
  10. Suitable for Vauxhall/K/Zetec
  11. Millions on fleabay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/i/282420202700?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=39910041817&rlsatarget=pla-300869762135&abcId=1088896&adtype=pla&merchantid=101735417&poi=&googleloc=1006609&device=c&campaignid=805055692&crdt=0
  12. Gary, Think your idea of wheel size might be amiss.. if they're 'standard' Barnby's ..otherwise your tyres should resemble balloons http://www.mb-racingwheels.com/Dwg1.htm usually 6.5" and 8.5" Rims front OR1315/IR1350 " rear OR1325/IR1360
  13. I'll take the wing stays please, Thanks Paul Adam beat me too it
  14. Most places won't bother to repair them nowadays, but will sell you a new (Chinese) one for £60... it'll do the job.
  15. Never been the same since they removed the DCM from Nitromors with the result that it's a paint stripper that doesn't strip paint anymore . Chlorinated hydrocarbons are death of course My 15 year old bottle of Turtle Wax Rust Eater turned to hard jelly, so couldn't be brush painted any more-so I bought the new Hammerite Curust (Akzo Nobel) equivalent, what a load of total rubbish, thin as water so can only be applied on top of surfaces, great for chassis repairs, I don't think!!! As you say POR15 is probably the best choice now, imported from the States, so good on yer, Mr. Trump and those before you who believe industry has a place in modern society.
  16. Wire brush off the loose powdercoat, then convert any rust with brushed on phosphoric acid (off Ebay 'cos the EU says you can't buy anything commercial that works any more as you're likely to drink it, or throw it at people ), then brush on 'Hammerite with Waxoyl'
  17. It's not that easy to find a manufactured spring compressor that fits the front and rear springs on a Caterham - the critical factor is for the jaws to be narrow enough to fit between the spring coils. I have a home made one, but I think your best bet might be to get a pair of likely looking ones from ebay, or ask a garage to do it. Maybe something like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pair-Of-Heavy-Duty-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Suspension-Struts-Clamps-Jaws-2pcs/182052165615?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43781%26meid%3Df12e4620e820466e954b9523c983f5e7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D172493151409
  18. It's not particularly straightforward unless you have some means of compressing the spring and access to a strong vice. First you compress the spring (careful here as this could result in injury if you get it wrong) and remove the retaining collar and then the spring. Then clamp the damper piston rod in the vice as firmly as possible using some sort of guard (rubber or wood on the vice jaws) so you don't damage the rod-the vice needs to be extremely tight or the rod will spin. Then put a bar through the eye of the bush and wind it off-it's often very tight and secured with loctite (although I have no idea why loctite is required). Put the extension on then reassemble.
  19. Paul McKenzie

    Wheel Nuts

    Are the minilites exposing more thread on the studs? Have the studs bottomed inside the closed nut which has then spun and stripped the threads. Either way it means new studs in the hubs, which need to be pressed out and in and need to be aligned properly.
  20. This is what you need, reliable and accurate and the same price as a sender https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stack-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge-0-7-bar-st3101
  21. I can sell you a set of beautiful newly powder coated rims on crack tested Barnby mags with almost new Kumho supersofts, but I would want a good price for them ie £1500 . That's the wheels dept taken care of !
  22. I've done the same as Paul and used the proper plastic shell plug with crimped connectors and solder . I found that the worst heat-affected wire ie most brittle, was the fourth sense wire which doesn't connect into the plug - I wrapped this in a glass fibre insulation sleeve. As Paul said don't forget to remove the battery earth before you start fiddling
  23. You can stop the top hat rotating with thin-nosed pliers or jam it with a screwdriver, then you can tighten it properly.
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