polainm

Thanks to Revilla for the wiring diagram. What really stumped me was coming to the conclusion that the hazard switch contacts had gone AWOL and swapping that switch out for another I had lying around, which produced exactly the same fault! I then went sluthing for all kinds of other problems....lesson learnt; don't leave old dodgy crap Lucas parts lying around!

It was the hazard switches. BOTH had the SAME fault. Unbelievable....I have now ordered 3 new hazard switches, and carry one spare sealed in the car.

Thanks Bob. I actually slightly twist the tabs so they have improved connection/fit, but still no joy....M

Thanks Andrew, yes bulb OK. I can only think it's two things; two duff Hazard Light Switches with the same fault and/or faulty indicator switch. After this, it's hand signals....Matt

Hi, it's that old chestnut again, faulty indicators. I'm normally pretty good with car electrics but this has me baffled. The indicators suddenly stopped working completely while driving. The hazard lights work but only on three lights, the rear left indicator light does not work. I've checked earth and live feed to the non working rear left lamp and it is all fine back to the main loom. I have swapped out the hazard lights switch for another old one, and I can only think that BOTH hazard switches have the identical fault! I've ordered new replacement ones, but I've never had the direction switch totally fail before. All fuses checked too. I will soon have replaced so many parts to solve the Lucas Curse, that all that is left is the main loom... Any ideas? It COULD be those crappy hazard light switches, but really, both with the same fault? Thanks for any hard learnt knowledge shared... Matt

£2,600 later, after many months seeking brake parts from the US (Alcon)...now finally fixed and being tested....

Depending on how booked up the Brands Hatch Indy day is on 1st October 2019, I represent a reserve place, as I can't make the event, as my Caterham is still being repaired after it dropped the differential at Snetterton.... Please contact myself and Simon Maitland (Trackday coordinator) if you would like to attend the Brands Hatch Indy track day but the booking is showing Sold Out. matt@polaine.com (Matt) trackdays@lotus7.club (Simon)

So finally fixed everything and took my son on a blast around Snetterton on a L7C Track Day. The Zetec 1800 is a great engine with about 175bhp, and adjustable platform, corner weighted, live axle, LSD, C/R S/C gearbox. R888Rs finishing the 520kg package. In the afternoon the driveshaft UVJ broke! Oh the shame of the Red Flag....sorry everyone. Looks expensive....

Can anyone tell me who was driving what spec of Caterham in front of me (the orange Tech 7) at the Dunsfold circuit on the 11th May 2019? I'm not sure if they were keeping slow enough for me to keep up, or if I was almost keeping up! Thanks, Matt.

Gone OMEX. All sorted.

Another way of doing this is to paint the whole caliper, then file off the paint on the raised lettering, then hi-temp lacquer it all.

I assume these are metric SIBs? If imperial, I'm interested, and only next door in Cambridgeshire, with family in Suffolk. I know some metric SIBs can be drilled/bent to fit imperial chassis, but would need to offer up before paying!

Ha. Interesting. I have a Type 9 Quaife SC box with Zetec 1800 and cable operated clutch, no pedal stop. There was a recent 'crunch' noise during heavy rain/flooded road and I lost full disengagement with pedal to the floor. I could still just get gears engaged, but it was clear the clutch was dragging. Looked at all usual issues; could not find anything. Tried to adjust locknuts but wouldn't budge. Needs to be up on stands in garage job. Only option I had was to space the travel out a fraction with this ultimate spanner bodge job! (There is a foot box cover BTW). The clutch has only done ~4,000miles and none of that on a track or hill climb. I can't determine if the clutch arm or bearing is bent/falling to bits, or this is natural wear and the clutch cable needs adjusting - preferably without a zip tied spanner. I'll be doing the NC500 in September, so reliability is important, but I am loathed to lift engine out for clutch bearing/arm replacement until I know for certain it's this. In an Escort I'd expect the clutch plate/bearing to last around 30,000miles, hauling twice the weight. Normal 'wear' or something else....?