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Paul McKenzie

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Everything posted by Paul McKenzie

  1. After the ring change, did you run it in on synth or semi-synth, and for how long?
  2. £400 when I sent mine to Titan...but it had been through the Sahara
  3. Lock another nut against the existing one then turn the inner nut and surely that will get the stub out
  4. I put one on my VX. To do it properly you need the engine out and on a stand.
  5. The track is the real star. Best thing to do IMHO is to attend the Classic and stay on for a track day on the Monday organised by someone like RMA for example. We've done it twice, and once you settle down after the first couple of laps and realise your driving the F1 stars favourite circuit, it's fabulous. What a lot of people don't realise is when you enter the bottom of Eau Rouge you've been downhill from La Source and you're in top gear and flat out (if you don't back off) and the summit of Eau Rouge is blind which is a bit of an issue if something's happened up there! Then you've got the Kemmel straight which has you punting along at your max of 120 mph or so, being passed by Porkers doing 160 - quite different to the UK circuits!
  6. Box of worms...breaks up and blocks oil pickup for certain modern oil types. If you've got someone in the car for trackdays and you're using sticky tyres, you will see a dramatic fall in oil pressure as you're cornering (or at least you do in the 2L XE)-this is the warning to go to dry sump.
  7. There is a potential issue-several years ago Nitromors stripped paint very well as it contained both caustic soda and dichloromethane. Now it doesn't contain caustic or DCM (banned by the EU) and it no longer strips paint. I don't know where you'd get something effective any more.
  8. Ah..... the black art. Take the whole system to a metal polisher and he'll do the lot for less than £100 and it will be mirror finish. After that it's easy to keep on top of it yourself.
  9. Does it also ground the silencer on a trackday?
  10. If you're only setting ali ones, why not buy one, they come in very handy and for £15 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M8-Threaded-Nut-Rivet-Insert-Tool-Riveter-Rivnut-Nutsert-Riveting-Kit-86Pcs/232851307360?hash=item363704fb60:g:nooAAOSwHt5bTGKf
  11. Do it right and use Schnorr serrated Safety Locking Washers -ebay is your friend
  12. I had these same symptoms on my VX and it turned out to be a broken (on a weld) LHS engine mount which put all the weight on the alternator strap and, not surprisingly, broke that too. I would put a jack under the engine and remove the LHS mount and mounting rubber underneath and have a closer look at the state of both. Also slack off the RHS mounting rubber bolts to give you room to work.
  13. Ultimate Carbon are supposed to be really good http://www.ultimatecarbon.co.uk/products-page/caterham/ Paul
  14. I've always taken the engine and 'box out as a single unit with both a conventional bellhousing and an integral ds bellhousing. Having it dangling over the car is great fun as long as you have a reliable crane and straps, and it's much easier to work on it out of the car and on the bench.
  15. Take the rack off, mask it and spray them with Hammerite satin black, after undercoating the steel.
  16. Got to be BRG, Tazio (just like mine, which you've seen - BRG with clams)
  17. Best to loosen the seat fixings on both sides to give more 'wobble room', and don't bother with the fixing screws.
  18. Those two wires (one black, one black/white) are for the low fluid indicator on the brake master cylinder cap. The former owner probably removed the cap as they leak on trackdays when filled to the normal line, and substituted a cap without any connections (and no leaks)
  19. Mark You can unlock it FOC once it's out of contract, we've done it before with O2
  20. Please send me your bank details and I'll transfer the money
  21. Hi Mark, I'll take this please if you can have it unlocked Thanks Paul McKenzie
  22. I need to remove the scuttle to get good access to the electrickery. Is it simply a case of: 1. disconnect the wiper motors and the washer, and unscrew or drill out the 3 poppers on the inside of the screen 2. remove the 2 bolts either side that hold the screen stanchions (or are there two other bolts holding the scuttle in place?) 3. Drill out the 24 or so forward facing rivets and the 2 (?) on the trailing edge of the scuttle 4. lift off the scuttle (which may have been sealed in with silicone) Is that it, or are there some pitfalls to try and avoid? Thanks Paul
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