OliverSedlacek

I would have thought it dates back to the earliest Sevens, which never had anything as Hi-tech as aluminium honeycomb. It's certainly cheap and effective. I think the honeycomb was first offered to comply with race regs that called for a fireproof separator between drivers and fuel tank.

Donuts

Tyres go hard with age. I'd book a track day and just burn up any life left in the 048s*driving*

Reduced unsprung weight is always a bonus, and much cheaper than carbon fiber wings. I went for billet Dynalites on stock Triumph disks. IMO the feel of the brakes is significantly improved.

Before splashing the cash I'd make sure you are getting the best out of what you have. In particular I would recommend getting any bump steer dialed out and making sure you don't have the front set up with any toe out.

Unusual failure, unless there was some other problem (like not torqued up properly). I'm assuming you will replace all four.

Adjustable platforms for the rear seem to be called for. They are useful for adjusting corner weights as well as rake and ride height, so I'd consider them sooner rather than later. I'd also investigate the cost of a dry sump, it gives so much peace of mind.

LiPo battery, 5kg saved for around £160.

I don't know what the weight is in CF but it's about 10.6 kg in GRP.

I think the argument that the seats harden is spurious, as the surface hardness gets worn away regardless (otherwise there would never be a problem). On the other hand, valve seat recession just doesn't seem to be so bad on engines that only do a few thousand miles a year that you can probably get away without an additive for quite a few years.

I think you're overthinking the LHS-RHS wear differences.

???? looks like the axle isn't centralised, so the A frame needs looking at.

I can't comment specifically on your setup, but in my experience drt sumps aren't that dry! Oil does tend to flow downhill (backwards) from the tank to the sump when the engine is stopped, but the rate depends on the wear on the scavenge pump, the ambient temperature and what sort of slope the car is parked on. The scavenge pump must have a higher capacity than the pressure pump, but I'm assuming that's not a problem. Race engines often run scavenge systems with 3 to 4 times the capacity of pressure system, The scavenge system will be pumping an air/oil mix under normal circumstances, with the mix varying to keep the levels stable.

Loctite Hysol 9492 is an epoxy rated for 180C and with good chemical resistance.

Old school coils do run pretty hot as they are designed for 'fixed dwell' points. The inductance of the coil stores energy in a magnetic field, which is released as the HT spark. The inductance sets the rate at which the magnetic field is charged up when the points are closed, but after a few milliseconds the coil is magnetically fully charged and more electrical power just gets turned into heat. This is actually more of a problem at low revs, where the points are closed for longer. In extremis, leaving the ignition on with the engine stopped and the points closed will make the coil pop! Modern ignition systems are 'constant energy' systems, where the electronics works backwards from the spark point to decide when to start charging the coil. The modern coil doesn't have to be designed to withstand overcharging as it relies on the electronics to protect it. Fitting a modern to coil to an old school system can lead to problems. Having said all that, I would say that a coil shouldn't get hotter than 70C, which still feels pretty hot.

Glad you're back on the road! It's frustrating when the summer is flying past and you're missing out on the fun.

I got so fed up trying to fit the clip last time I tried to fit it I'm trying without.

I found that the choice of gas makes quite a difference. Look for a 'High power' gas, which is probably a mix of propane and butane. Another cheap idea is just to use two torches at the time. A spare torch is quite handy anyway.

Adjustment of stays with suitable application of leverage worked for me.

I think it's important to make the distinction that big torque engines (i.e. somewhere above 150 BHP) will break the bevel gear carrier inside standard open the diff. The aftermarket LSDs are much stronger and will handle more torque. Sticky tyres, curbs and aggressive racing put high loads through the bearings and halfshafts, and the cure for this is a fully floating half shaft, as per the Rakeway mods.

I'm struggling to describe what I mean, but I've found that on mine it's possible to mis-align the UJ on the splines. If the splines first engage at the open end, they can be one spline out. You can't easily see what you've done, but my approach is to sort of roll the UJ on to the splines from the closed end.

Thanks for the feedback. Roger, I'm just concerned because of the camshaft problems I've had.

Does anyone know the bore of the oil jet hole in the big end?

My brother in law has an off road mobility scooter that has packed up. We would love to get it fixed for his summer holidays, and it would be much easier if I could look at it here in South Bucks. I know it's a big ask, but if anyone could help, please let me know.

Glad you've solved it. These things seem simple in hindsight but can be so frustrating until diagnosed.