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OliverSedlacek

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Everything posted by OliverSedlacek

  1. OliverSedlacek
    I would have thought that the pressure pump and the scavenge pump get more or less similar abuse and should wear at similar rates. Failure of the scavenge pump drive will be seriously bad news of course. I'm reminded of the woes Gordon Murray had with the "Low line" Brabham BMW because they hadn't twigged that in a sustained high G corner the oil in the cylinder head wasn't draining back to the scavenge pump inlet due to the cant on the engine.
  2. OliverSedlacek
    The accelerometers in smart phones sense all three axes and include three axis gyroscopes. That means the microprocessor has access to all the information it needs to estimate deceleration. I don't know what deceleration trip point you would set, but 0.2G would be my starting point.
  3. OliverSedlacek
    I doubt you can overfill the tube with grease, so I would try and get some more in.
  4. OliverSedlacek

    Wipers

    OliverSedlacek replied to ScottR400D's topic in TechTalk

    I think the problem is that the wipers have changed over the years (the original part was probably obsoleted) and the spindles were never changed to match the new arms. Mind you, the original arms with the very fine splines used to corrode on and were a bugger to remove after a year or so. As for hitting the frame, the blades used to need cutting down by the installer.
  5. OliverSedlacek
    Can you have a look at the plugs ASAP after it quits? If the plugs are wet with fuel then it suggests that the sparks aren't working. You could also try pulling all the plugs and turning the engine over on the starter with the throttle wide open. You should see (and smell) fuel being chucked out of the plug holes.
  6. OliverSedlacek
    It did occur to me that a voltage test under load might have some merit. A brief load of an amp or so once per hour wouldn't drain the battery much faster than usual, but it's sill no more than a student exercise to implement.
  7. OliverSedlacek
    You can certainly measure the ratio with an open diff by counting prop shaft revs. I find it easiest to lock one wheel and then halve the number of turns of the free wheel. Which ratio is fitted is not strictly dependent on which gearbox you have. I've recently converted my 5 speed car from a 3.9 diff to a 3.6 diff to get the overall gearing I want (which is also affected by tyre size).
  8. OliverSedlacek
    I'm considering fitting auto dimming mirrors as getting dazzled by traffic in a car as low as a Seven is a real problem.
  9. OliverSedlacek
    An under voltage disconnect is a pretty simple circuit to design, so I've no idea what software would need patenting.
  10. OliverSedlacek
    Not all axle breakages are equally serious. A broken drive shaft is a nuisance, a broken differential is expensive, but a wheel coming off during hard cornering is really going to grab your attention.
  11. OliverSedlacek
    Live axle or deDion? Either way my experience is that suspension nuts and bolts invariably rust solid, and getting the f***ers off is the biggest problem. I would source a can of Wurth Rustoff, which I rate as much better than Plusgas, and then a big pot of copper grease for when you put it together. I did also end up making up some spacer tubes so that I could use some big bolts as pullers (or pushers).
  12. OliverSedlacek
    You shouldn't put a filter between the tank and the pump, the pump wont like it. The symptoms don't seem right to me for fuel blockages as cooling down doesn't make a blockage go away. The times mentioned in your original problems suggest thermal issues. You've probably done it, but have you swapped the rotor arm and coil lead. If you've really swapped all the ignition components, you may want to check the alternator. I had similar problems and it turned out that the diode pack was breaking down intermittently once hot and 'spiking' the battery line. The spikes were upsetting the electronics in the ignition. Disconnecting the alternator (carefully) made the engine run flawlessly.
  13. OliverSedlacek
    On a Rover V8 the oil pump needs the dizzy in place as a link in the pump drive.
  14. OliverSedlacek
    The quality of the standard set supplied by Redline is noticeably better than it used to be (it's not often I can say that). I don't know when the spec/supplier changed, but the benefit of silicone hoses is marginal.
  15. OliverSedlacek
    My Megajolt is now surplus to requirements so BM me if you're interested. It would be a tried and tested solution, lacking only a trigger wheel (which I kept for my OMEX ECU). I'll cost it up tonight.
  16. OliverSedlacek
    Mapping went swimmingly and the engine made 155.4 BHP at 6650 RPM! After all the drama of the first attempt in December, the contrast couldn't be greater. I'll post up the curves when I get them in electronic form.
  17. OliverSedlacek
    I don't know how the commercial brake bleeders work, but they can cost £1400.
  18. OliverSedlacek
    In the struggle to get a firm pedal I borrowed a vacuum bleeder, and it's done a better job than the Eezibleed. I discussed this with my my professional mechanic chum and who felt that the disadvantage of any pressure (as opposed to vacuum) system is that it squeezes air bubbles, making it easier for them to stick in some niche. Whether his explanation is right or not, the proof of the pudding is that it succeeded where the Eezibleed ddn't.
  19. OliverSedlacek
    I wonder if all eezibleed users come to the same conclusion, don't bother with fluid in the bottle. I have to say I'm still struggling to get a good feel on my brake pedal and I'm starting to wonder if something isn't working properly. I'm really starting to regret converting to disks.
  20. OliverSedlacek
    I have to say that no one ever seems to come up with a definitive procedure for bleeding the brakes. For standard brakes 500mL should be enough. I've taken to collecting the fluid in a clean container and returning it to the reservoir if it's coming out clean but still with bubbles.
  21. OliverSedlacek
    I've still got issues with the rear brakes, with the left hand side dragging and an ineffective handbrake. A lot of problems can be diagnosed with careful visual inspection, so that's what I did. I thought disk runout might affect the self-adjusting mechanism, so I checked it with a dial gauge. It measured 0.2mm max at the disk edge, and this seems to be caused by the hub face being slightly out of true. The handbrake return springs were bent, so I've ordered a new pair. It turns out that the modified levers stop the mechanisms from returning to their 'off' positions, so a little modification with a hacksaw is in the pipeline.
  22. OliverSedlacek
    If it's an ex racecar then there is a fair chance a previous owner has 'upgraded' to a big bore master cylinder. This gives a much firmer pedal but you have to push harder on the pedal.
  23. OliverSedlacek
    Glad that's sorted. Finding a loose electrical connection is not trivial.
  24. OliverSedlacek
    Over the years I've come to the conclusion that there is nothing in the world that is so simple that someone can't make it that bit cheaper by making it a bit crap. Having said that, disks are cast iron, and we all know that the world markets are flooded with cheap steel/iron. You should be OK with a brand that has a reputation to maintain, even if it is an 'own brand'. Pads are much more complicated.
  25. OliverSedlacek
    I was told it was also a VW Golf part, so you could try starting there.
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