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OliverSedlacek

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Everything posted by OliverSedlacek

  1. OliverSedlacek
    That may be the theory, but the signal out of the alternator seems to always be 12Vish, even with the engine stopped. When I connected a test bulb as described, it never lit.
  2. OliverSedlacek
    I've got the engine (K series) running with an Emerald ECU, and the Brise alternator is charging the battery. What I can't figure out is how to wire up the charge warning light The Brown/Yellow wire in the engine loom seems to be significant, but neither of the other two wires coming out of the Brise seem to do the right thing. Has anyone got any clues?
  3. OliverSedlacek
    Changing chokes is pretty straightforward, although the details do vary a bit according to the age of Webers. My only tip is that if they are stuck, don't force them as there is probably some screw or needle that you haven't unscrewed. As to whether it affects the tune, I'm not entirely sure. I suspect that you will be pretty close, but not identical.
  4. OliverSedlacek
    You really shouldn't be getting shocks off the dizzy, so I think it's time for a new cap. As for static V dynamic timing, I'd expect 3-4 degrees difference is fairly usual.
  5. OliverSedlacek
    Two more points sprang to mind. Firstly, I would check what the wire temperature rating will be used. The cheap stuff has an 85 degree maximum temperature, but you should really be getting the 110 degree stuff. Secondly, get a wiring diagram! I'd hope that the supplier would draw up a diagram before starting to make it. If you've got a diagram, why don't you post it up so that we can have a look at it.
  6. OliverSedlacek
    In my opinion the standard valve guides are a bit of a weakness as they wear quickly. You can check this by checking how much the valves can rock or wobble when the valve head is pushed from side to side. If they are worn, I would replace them with bronze guides.
  7. OliverSedlacek
    PTFE tape works for me
  8. OliverSedlacek
    Personally I think they are both a bit of a waste of time. The most common battery related query is "why is the battery flat/why wont the starter turn the engine over". The answer people are looking for is: A - Battery shagged B - Alternator knackered C - Starter fried D - Something is draining the battery when the car is parked. Neither a voltmeter or an ammeter on its own will provide a diagnosis.
  9. OliverSedlacek
    I'd stick with the hydraulic switch. After all, 22 years aint bad.
  10. OliverSedlacek
    What's your peak power? Are you running with a windscreen or not? If you've got 250 BHP ish, then you may get to about 155 MPH, so you need to set your gearing to give 9500 rpm at 155 MPH, or 16.2 MPH / 1000 RPM
  11. OliverSedlacek
    As it depends a bit on wheel/tyre/cycle wing sizes, your most accurate figure is goint to be your current width +84mm
  12. OliverSedlacek
    BGH
  13. OliverSedlacek
    An XFlow has to be one of the easiest engines to rebuild, and you know where to come for advice! Deciding what needs doing is a bit trickier, and most tuners will recommend doing the lot. This makes sense as once you've paid them to take it all apart the cost of a rebore etc becomes quite small. A surefire indication that you need a rebore is if either: A Your oil consumption is high B You are generating a smokescreen from the exhaust at full throttle C The engine breathes heavily, i.e. blows fumes out of the breathers. You can save a lot of money by doing a DIY bearing change, valve seat grinding, or valve guide replacement. Cam chain replacement is also easy enough, and if you aren't changing profiles significantly a cam swap is also a DIY candidate.
  14. OliverSedlacek
    My 150 bhp Xflow does about 28MPG on the road. The three biggest things that contributed to good fuel consumption are 3D mapped ignition, forged pistons and dry sump.
  15. OliverSedlacek
    There are a couple of points to bear in mind about synthetic oils. 1 You can't run an engine in on them 2 An XFlow wasn't designed for anything that good, so it's a bit of a waste of money 3 They don't generally come in the thicker grades as they are designed for more modern engines 4 They don't carry away as much heat as mineral oils, so can run a bit hotter
  16. OliverSedlacek
    What wheels and tyres are you using? A 3.9:1 diff on my old 4sp box gave 18 MPH/1000 RPM, not the 10 MPH/1000 RPM you quote. I would go for something in the 3.6 to 3.7 range.
  17. OliverSedlacek
    I've run my XFlow on a variety of oils over the years (109,000 miles, but rebuilt several times). I always thought to old Mobil 5W50 suited it best, but since they discontinued it I took Roger King's advice and now run it on 5W40 semi synthetic. You have to get used to the fact that it will show a couple of PSI less on the gauge, but the improved lubrication at startup is beneficial. I've always just lobbed a 30% antifreeze mix in it.
  18. OliverSedlacek
    I strongly recommend the standard bush. You need compliance at this point in the suspension to accomodate roll, and a harder bush causes problems. If you can't live with replacing the bush periodically, then you can convert to a spherical bearing.
  19. OliverSedlacek
    I'd strongly recommend a BGH modified gearbox as it provides much better ratios. An ali bellhousing is also the most cost effective weight saving there is (compare 6.2 kg saved for only £220 with CF bits) On top of the previously mentioned bits you will also need: A shortened gearstick. You can saw down a standard type 9 stick. A new gearknob A new tunnel cover (the bit the gearstick sticks through) and gaiter, as the stick comes out a bit further forward. A gearbox to chassis rubber mount. here are some pictures
  20. OliverSedlacek
    Depends on which cam is fitted. For Kent 234 or Kent 244 try 0.022" inlet and 0.024" exhaust.
  21. OliverSedlacek
    The lowest practical limit is set by speed humps and the like. There might be something in the competition regs.
  22. OliverSedlacek
    It looks like the engine earthing lead to me. As the starter current flows through it, I would use one of the starter bolts if possible.
  23. OliverSedlacek
    The usual solution is to use a ferrite clamp (available from RS or Maplin) over the offending lead. In this case I would try putting it on the power lead at the camera end.
  24. OliverSedlacek
    How old are the calipers?
  25. OliverSedlacek
    I've found Wurth Rustoff to be marginally better than Plus Gas.
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